s219
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
- Messages
- 8,548
- Location
- Virginia USA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
I had a summer job building storage sheds in a factory when I was young, and it was a learning experience to see the way prefab buildings were done in a controlled environment with engineered design. The same company also "imported" Amish-built sheds from PA as another product line, and they were excellent.
One thing I remember was that a fully assembled 8'x16' was around $1600 delivered, and they sold like hotcakes. That was in the late 1980s though.
Those pre-fab sheds were built smartly in terms of materials and structural considerations, as compared to most home-built sheds which are either ridiculously overbuilt or so poorly made that they fail in a couple years. Shed-kits from Lowes/HD are complete junk from what I have seen, and a waste of money.
So here's what I remember the construction of a typical average duty pre-fab factory shed consisted of:
2x4 framing for floor joists with 16" spacing, and 2x4 runners going across joists about every 3' for blocking. Runners were inset 1' from edges. 3/4" plywood decking. Walls were framed with 2x4, 24" on center with T-111 (or similar) siding. Roof had simple 2x4 rafters, 24" spacing, with gusset at ridge and 3/8" sheathing, with drip edge and standard shingles on top.
The company sold thousands of those and they were completely adequate for most uses. Never heard complaints. The company did a very good job delivering and installing the sheds, with concrete blocks every 4' (at joist/runner intersections) and shims used to get the level perfect and make sure all doors were square. Free adjustments if anything settled or got out of whack for a year. It's a smart way to support a shed if done right, and can have advantages over permanent footings in many cases.
I'd have no problem with a shed like that for what you describe. In fact, when I built one at my previous house, I closely mimicked that design, except I went with 12" spacing on the floor joists and 4x4s for the runners (mainly for extra height). The floor was more than stiff enough for my Deere riding mower and it's towed attachments as well as all my other equipment. That shed was an 8'x12' and cost me $1200 to build in 2001.
Those same sheds could be upgraded to 2x6 floor framing with 12" spacing and double plywood on the floor (second course running 90 degrees to the first) and were rated to hold cars and similar heavy loads.
Hope all that info is helpful in terms of materials and costs, albeit maybe outdated a little on the dollar amounts. We built a smaller 4'x8' version for my generator at our new house in 2013, and that ran about $900 for materials. But that's a small odd size and I think the $/sq.ft ends up skewing high for small stuff, especially since we added features to mimic our home's architecture.
One thing I remember was that a fully assembled 8'x16' was around $1600 delivered, and they sold like hotcakes. That was in the late 1980s though.
Those pre-fab sheds were built smartly in terms of materials and structural considerations, as compared to most home-built sheds which are either ridiculously overbuilt or so poorly made that they fail in a couple years. Shed-kits from Lowes/HD are complete junk from what I have seen, and a waste of money.
So here's what I remember the construction of a typical average duty pre-fab factory shed consisted of:
2x4 framing for floor joists with 16" spacing, and 2x4 runners going across joists about every 3' for blocking. Runners were inset 1' from edges. 3/4" plywood decking. Walls were framed with 2x4, 24" on center with T-111 (or similar) siding. Roof had simple 2x4 rafters, 24" spacing, with gusset at ridge and 3/8" sheathing, with drip edge and standard shingles on top.
The company sold thousands of those and they were completely adequate for most uses. Never heard complaints. The company did a very good job delivering and installing the sheds, with concrete blocks every 4' (at joist/runner intersections) and shims used to get the level perfect and make sure all doors were square. Free adjustments if anything settled or got out of whack for a year. It's a smart way to support a shed if done right, and can have advantages over permanent footings in many cases.
I'd have no problem with a shed like that for what you describe. In fact, when I built one at my previous house, I closely mimicked that design, except I went with 12" spacing on the floor joists and 4x4s for the runners (mainly for extra height). The floor was more than stiff enough for my Deere riding mower and it's towed attachments as well as all my other equipment. That shed was an 8'x12' and cost me $1200 to build in 2001.
Those same sheds could be upgraded to 2x6 floor framing with 12" spacing and double plywood on the floor (second course running 90 degrees to the first) and were rated to hold cars and similar heavy loads.
Hope all that info is helpful in terms of materials and costs, albeit maybe outdated a little on the dollar amounts. We built a smaller 4'x8' version for my generator at our new house in 2013, and that ran about $900 for materials. But that's a small odd size and I think the $/sq.ft ends up skewing high for small stuff, especially since we added features to mimic our home's architecture.