Shenniu 254 Tractor with Hubei 295T engine

[Koogan]

This Chinese Tractor is 25 hp 4wd (254 engine is diesel 1.63 LITRE. I just acquired it and am catching up on the maintenance. The rad had a few leaks and is being repaired and modified to use a coolant recovery tank. The new rad cap reads .7. Is that .7 bar or 10.5 ft lbs? I will spray the head casket with permatex copper head gasket spray and torque it 3 stages TO 95 FT LBS.
I have not been able to remove the head, as it has head bolts not nuts. I will remove the 10 studs by locknutting. Then I can brass hammer it sideways.
Questions: any general advice
What does the .7 on the new rad cap mean?
Any idea how to get the head off?
The guages are unreadable due to being out in the open, will standard guages work (coolant, oil, ammeter)?
How do I know when the injection pump is full of oil, I see the filler but not the overflow?
I will drain the old fuel out and change all filters
I treated the block but not the rad with sodium hydroxide and flushed
I treated the radiator with Prestone coolant flush. It was full of rust when first drained and flushed with water but the channels do not seem blocked with build up.
New radiator cap and lapping the valves is planned.
Any idea what engine this is based on? some say German (International German built 2cyl from the 50s?)

 

[Bob Rooks]

This Chinese Tractor is 25 hp 4wd (254 engine is diesel 1.63 liter). I just acquired it and am catching up on the maintenance. The radiator had a few leaks and is being repaired and modified to use a coolant recovery tank. The new radiator cap reads .7. Is that .7 bar (Yes) or 10.5 ft lbs? Huh?. I will spray the head casket with Permatex copper head gasket spray and torque it 3 stages TO 95 FT LBS.
I have not been able to remove the head, as it has head bolts not nuts. How does that prevent you from removing the head?

I will remove the 10 studs by lock nutting. Studs not bolts?

Then I can brass hammer it sideways. WOW! Not a fan of that.

Questions: any general advice
What does the .7 on the new rad cap mean? 10.1 PSI.

Any idea how to get the head off? Machinist's wedge.

The gauges are unreadable due to being out in the open, will standard gauges work (coolant, oil, ammeter)? Yes.

How do I know when the injection pump is full of oil, I see the filler but not the overflow? There is a 6mm tattle-tale bolt or thumb screw about mid point in the side of the pump. Some pumps have dipsticks. Do not overfill because it shares sumps with the governor.

I will drain the old fuel out and change all filters. √

I treated the block but not the radiator with sodium hydroxide and flushed. Personally, I would have used oxalic acid for both, just my preference from years of use.

I treated the radiator with Prestone coolant flush. It was full of rust when first drained and flushed with water but the channels do not seem blocked with build up. √

New radiator cap and lapping the valves is planned. √

Any idea what engine this is based on? some say German (International German built 2cyl from the 50s?) Nope. Genuine Chinese development. But yeah, based on Rudolf Diesel's concept.

 

[Tinhack]

I will just add "standard" gauges will work IF the senders are standard.

On a side note; you might try using some automotive polish on the lens of the gauges. You can sometimes remove the haze from the plastic covering the gauges with a gentile buffing.

 

[Koogan]

guages looks like its more than the lenses

 

[Koogan]

third guage

 

[Koogan]

Temperature sender

 

[Koogan]

I will just add "standard" gauges will work IF the senders are standard.

On a side note; you might try using some automotive polish on the lens of the gauges. You can sometimes remove the haze from the plastic covering the gauges with a gentile buffing.

Ill try it, have a look at my new post with pictures.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I will just add "standard" gauges will work IF the senders are standard.

On a side note; you might try using some automotive polish on the lens of the gauges. You can sometimes remove the haze from the plastic covering the gauges with a gentle buffing.

Yes! I found that toothpaste works great for removing haze from plastic lenses.

 

[Koogan]

The studs come out of the block and long nuts go on them once the head is installed. In contract to bolts that go through the head and into the block.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Looks like you have a mechanical temperature gauge and an electric oil pressure gauge (yellow wire?). They can both be replaced with regular gauges. I replaced mine with Murphy Switchgages because I use them with high temperature and low oil pressure alarms.

 

[Bob Rooks]

The studs come out of the block and long nuts go on them once the head is installed. In contrast to bolts that go through the head and into the block.

Ok, you have head studs, there is a reason for that along with the fine threaded long nuts. Studs have a much greater clamping force without distorting the threads in the block. Double check the required torque settings so you don't pull the block threads. Don't replace them with bolts, which will have coarse threads.

 

[Tinhack]

I was thinking the dash was one plastic covered unit. Having individual gauges would be easy to replace and convert to English. Looks like you have Oil Pressure, Temperature and Ammeter. Should be a simple conversion if you don't want to retain the originals. They look a little faded too.

Also noticed the dash lights look like they're mounted upside down. That style is available as well and often sold as "license plate lights" or "dash lights" for antique cars. That is, if you don't buy illuminated gauges.

 

[Koogan]

Thank you