shingles on a polebarn

   / shingles on a polebarn #31  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 4*I can't see Building stick type studded walls.
A-* You have already paid for the poll building style framed walls.
B*Now you're talking about paying again for stick built framed walls.
Why pay for the same walls twice??????
)</font>

Basically because of short term needs vs. long term finance. By building pole barn style I was able to start getting it up and using some of the roof portion almost immediately vs. if I would have had mason come in and lay block for a foundation for conventional build. As far as why did I do horizonatal purlins now vs. going ahead with the stick walls now? Cost. I could put a few 2x4s in a get sides and have it weather tight. As I get a few $ I can go get a few 2x4s and build a section in. Look at it like using a credit card, you know it doesn't make sense to pay 14 - 22% interest, but yet the car is broke down and needs fixed. You can save the money to fix the car or you can use your credit card and get fixed now and be driving the car back and forth to work. Kinda the same idea, instead of paying interest, I'm buying extra wood. Smart? No, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
 
   / shingles on a polebarn #33  
No, the Honda has actually been doing pretty good since I changed the radiator, thermostat, water pump, & timing belt. Though I do have a CV shaft making some noise that I need to get on. Just haven't taken the time to do it. Can't really complain about it for 180k on it. Course can't complain about the truck either at 85k and I've spent a grand total of $125 in repairs on it including stuff that was my fault. Guess I should keep it out of the deep mud holes. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / shingles on a polebarn #34  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Basically because of short term needs vs. long term finance. By building pole barn style I was able to start getting it up and using some of the roof portion almost immediately vs. if I would have had mason come in and lay block for a foundation for conventional build. As far as why did I do horizonatal purlins now vs. going ahead with the stick walls now? Cost. I could put a few 2x4s in a get sides and have it weather tight. As I get a few $ I can go get a few 2x4s and build a section in. Look at it like using a credit card, you know it doesn't make sense to pay 14 - 22% interest, but yet the car is broke down and needs fixed. You can save the money to fix the car or you can use your credit card and get fixed now and be driving the car back and forth to work. Kinda the same idea, instead of paying interest, I'm buying extra wood. Smart? No, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. )</font>

As I was reading your message, it reminded me _exactly_ of a credit card - I was going to actually mention that. Twice the work, twice the expense, for one shed! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Whatever works for you I guess. Seems to be the hard way, but someone has to keep the ecconomy going. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul
 
   / shingles on a polebarn #35  
if I would have had mason come in and lay block for a foundation for conventional build.
*************************************jwstewar**************************
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Did you know you don't have to have a block foundation to build a stick type wall on?

I have and old Shed type 12 x 20 garage my dad and I built back in 1971.
We nailed 2 regular untreated 2 x fours together for post and set them about 4 feet apart. Only buried them about a foot or less in the ground.
For purloins we used old used 1 inch boards for both the walls and roof.
The trusses are one 2x4 spanning from the top of one wall to the top of the opposite wall spaced 24 inches OC.
The roof is used old ancient corrugated tin. The Siding was an 8 foot wide roll of clear plastic .
I guess we built a crude version of a pole building and didn't know it.
Ben there for 33 years now and still going strong
9 years ago I added another 12 by 20 section so now it measures 20 deep and 24 wide.
This addition is a combination of pole building stick built and prefab or panel.
The foundation is simply cement blocks laid on the bear ground.
The trusses on this half are same as the older side.
The roof is half inch plywood covered with rolled roofing.
At this time I sided both sections with 1/4 th" OSB and stained it with cedar colored stain, in nine years I have only had to stain it one more time.
I ran the OSB horizontally not vertically starting at the bottom of the wall. When I did the next row I overlapped the top of the first row by 1 inch. done it like that until I got to the top of the wall,
 
   / shingles on a polebarn #36  
I have not read every post in this thread but I have gottten the idea. To use metal or not?

I have been a builder in this snow country for 20yrs. Here is what we find.

Metal- Good material to shed snow
If quality material used it will last a long long time
The weak spot is the fastening. Many of the pole barn
builders in this area have crews going out fixing bad
fasteners (leaks). They break down in the weather
and temp. changes. Standing seam or similar metal
does not have this issue, but is most oftem more
money. Properly fastened, it will withstand great
winds; we get 90+ mph nearly every year.

Shingles- 1/2 to 5/8 roof decking over 24" centers will not
sag. The code in our area is for 70 PSF snow load
and we now have to use 5/8 for residential. 1/2 is
still OK by inspectors for storage buildings.
Good seal down roofing properly applied will last for
10 or more years past it's rating. I always use 30
or 35yr. texture look metric type and love the end
results.
Less likely to sweat and low noise in rain.
Will not peal or fade in color.
I have it on my house and it has faced 110MPH winds
without any damage.

In summary: I have used metal in this area. It often has been used for it's past price savings which is not as much any more. A good metal system with standing seam is an excellent choice but very costly. A quality ( not IKO) shingle roof is a long lasting no maintenance roofing, easy to walk on
that ages well.

I prefer a good 30 to 35 yr, seal down roofing over a 1/2 to 5/8 inch deck. Roof it and forget about it.
 
   / shingles on a polebarn
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I started checking some more prices , and found the tin, ridgecap and screws for $600 delivered from Holden wva. thats $78 dollars cheaper than the other place.
 

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