shingles on a polebarn

[Bellville]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( I'd consider selling a kidney before putting asphault shingles up there if it were mine......

Hope you can catch my drift, I have a habit of being kind of subtle sometimes.... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

--->Paul )</font>

Thanks Paul, best laugh I have had all day, and I think he got your meaning... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[rambler]

[quote
Thanks Paul, best laugh I have had all day, and I think he got your meaning... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

=========
When I was in high school, I had the job of peeling the asphault shingles off out big old farm barn - 30' high on the one side, 80' long, 40' wide, fairly steep roof. I got a ladder to hang on to, with a rope over the top and tied to a tractor on the ground on the other side. Wind took the shingles off that big barn roof, not all that old on the reshingle job. The barn was built in 1912 or so, no bolts, all wood beams & wood pegs, joints chiseled out into the old-time hooks.

Anyhow, was wood shingles were on for maybe 45 years, then the asphault were put on for maybe 15 years, and then we put tin on about 25 years ago. Still haven't needed to paint it, no rust showing at all yet - so it should have another 25+ years to go with a painting or 2.

You can do the math, & see which set of roof cover was the weak link.....

I had no fingerprints for a year after taking all those shingles off (can't drop nails on the feeding platform, kills livestock...) and I spent a good many days up there peeling a shingles off.

I vowed never again. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul

 

[JJT]

Buckcreek, 1 other thing to keep in mind, is installation time. The time it takes to deck and shingle the building will be at least 3X what it takes to use purlins and install steel roofing. If it was me, I'd go with the steel. JT

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm building a 30X48 Pole Barn. I used trusses 2' on center w/ 7/16" OSB w/ very heavy shingles. I completed the roof in late April/early May. I have seen no signs of any sagging. BTW, most of the OSB was up last year with tar paper so it has seen a little bit of snow, though we didn't get much last year. I did use the clips as someone else has recommended. I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls w/ vinyl siding. I also used clips between the horizontal purlins.

I would've like to have gone heavier grade of plywood up on the roof, but I had budgeted about 8 per sheet for the heavier stuff. By the time I went and bought the 7/16" was up to about $16 a sheet if I caught it at a good time other times it was $19. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Here is link to my project. Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully

I've also attached a picture of the roof after I started putting some of the OSB on the sidewalls. )</font>

I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls. I also used clips between the horizontal purlins.
=====================
I ran the OSB horizontally on the sides so that the 8 foot sides of the sheets always fell on the purlins. This way the clips were not needed.
If you run the sheets vertically you get cracks every 4 feet apart between each sheet from floor to ceiling.

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Buckcreek,

I was advised another good reason to do shingles instead of metal is the metal sweats alot and drips inside if you don't insulate it. You may be ending up with a better building.

John )</font>Cover with plastic before installing the metal roof.

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm building a 30X48 Pole Barn. I used trusses 2' on center w/ 7/16" OSB w/ very heavy shingles. I completed the roof in late April/early May. I have seen no signs of any sagging. BTW, most of the OSB was up last year with tar paper so it has seen a little bit of snow, though we didn't get much last year. I did use the clips as someone else has recommended. I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls w/ vinyl siding. I also used clips between the horizontal purlins.

I would've like to have gone heavier grade of plywood up on the roof, but I had budgeted about 8 per sheet for the heavier stuff. By the time I went and bought the 7/16" was up to about $16 a sheet if I caught it at a good time other times it was $19. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Here is link to my project. Jim's Pole Barn Project - hopefully

I've also attached a picture of the roof after I started putting some of the OSB on the sidewalls. )</font>

I'm also doing OSB on the sidewalls w/ vinyl siding.
jwstewar
===========
How did you handle the problem with the nails that attach the vinyl siding going clear through the OSB and sticking out into the room?

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Buckcreek, 1 other thing to keep in mind, is installation time. The time it takes to deck and shingle the building will be at least 3X what it takes to use purlins and install steel roofing. If it was me, I'd go with the steel. JT )</font>

Here is where you can save big .A metal roof only requires half as many trusses as a shingled one.

 

[LBrown59]

I have 2 pole buildings
One is 30x52 Shingled roof and vinal sding.
Other is 22x76 Metal roof & metal siding.

 

[jwstewar]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How did you handle the problem with the nails that attach the vinyl siding going clear through the OSB and sticking out into the room?
)</font>

I haven't done the siding yet. I've just got the building wrapped with Tyvek. $ have gotten pretty short here as of late. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif The nails that stick through so far from nailing the OSB to the purlins, I've taken the approach of if it is down low enough to where the kids could run into them the wife and I went around with a hammer and bent them over (down). Would make removing the OSB rather difficult, but feel it was worth it. Up higher than say 3 or 4' I didn't worry about it unless I need to lean something up against that section. Long term solution is to come back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 sticks walls, insulate, and drywall. But that is down the road once I get the siding and floor finished and replenish the wallet a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( How did you handle the problem with the nails that attach the vinyl siding going clear through the OSB and sticking out into the room?
)</font>

I haven't done the siding yet. I've just got the building wrapped with Tyvek. $ have gotten pretty short here as of late. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif The nails that stick through so far from nailing the OSB to the purlins, I've taken the approach of if it is down low enough to where the kids could run into them the wife and I went around with a hammer and bent them over (down). Would make removing the OSB rather difficult, but feel it was worth it. Up higher than say 3 or 4' I didn't worry about it unless I need to lean something up against that section. Long term solution is to come back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 sticks walls, insulate, and drywall. But that is down the road once I get the siding and floor finished and replenish the wallet a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif )</font>

*******1*The nails that stick through so far from nailing the OSB to the purloins
2*I've taken the approach of if it is down low enough to where the kids could run into them the wife and I went around with a hammer and bent them over (down). Would make removing the OSB rather difficult, but feel it was worth it.
3*Up higher than say 3 or 4' I didn't worry about it unless I need to lean something up against that section.
4* Long term solution is to come back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 sticks walls, insulate, and drywall.
jwstewar
==================
1*You made the same mistake I did in fastening the OSB to the purloins.
If I had it to do over again I would have used shorter nails that would not go clear through the OSB and the purloins
2*I haven't done anything with these yet on my building but you can get a neat little cut off grinding wheel for an electric drill that is the best thing for cutting them off flush with the surface. Bending them over is one way But I would not do that on the ones going through only the SOB that attaches the vinyl siding. Clinching these nails might enlarge or misshape the nail holes and cause the siding to misalign and or become wavy.OSB is a lot softer and thinner than the 2x4 purloins
3*They are still a problem it you intend to run any wiring along or through the walls.
4*I can't see Building stick type studded walls.
A-* You have already paid for the poll building style framed walls.
B*Now you're talking about paying again for stick built framed walls.
Why pay for the same walls twice??????
If you are going to pay for stick built framed walls why not do that in the first place and forget the post and purloins and save your time effort and money????

Even If you go back and build normal 2X4 or 2X6 stick walls the nails will still be the same problem they are now because the nails are 1.5 Inches behind the treated post. If you put in vertical 2x4 or 2x6 studs the OSB will still be that 1.5" behind them.

I would not use drywall I just don't care for it.
As far as I'm concerned wafer board is good enough for the interior of a pole building.

The problem with vinyl siding is it's not designed for pole buildings. It's designed to work with vertical studs not horizontal purloins.



***********

 

[jwstewar]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 4*I can't see Building stick type studded walls.
A-* You have already paid for the poll building style framed walls.
B*Now you're talking about paying again for stick built framed walls.
Why pay for the same walls twice??????
)</font>

Basically because of short term needs vs. long term finance. By building pole barn style I was able to start getting it up and using some of the roof portion almost immediately vs. if I would have had mason come in and lay block for a foundation for conventional build. As far as why did I do horizonatal purlins now vs. going ahead with the stick walls now? Cost. I could put a few 2x4s in a get sides and have it weather tight. As I get a few $ I can go get a few 2x4s and build a section in. Look at it like using a credit card, you know it doesn't make sense to pay 14 - 22% interest, but yet the car is broke down and needs fixed. You can save the money to fix the car or you can use your credit card and get fixed now and be driving the car back and forth to work. Kinda the same idea, instead of paying interest, I'm buying extra wood. Smart? No, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

 

[Inspector507]

Monica's car down again?

 

[jwstewar]

No, the Honda has actually been doing pretty good since I changed the radiator, thermostat, water pump, & timing belt. Though I do have a CV shaft making some noise that I need to get on. Just haven't taken the time to do it. Can't really complain about it for 180k on it. Course can't complain about the truck either at 85k and I've spent a grand total of $125 in repairs on it including stuff that was my fault. Guess I should keep it out of the deep mud holes. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Basically because of short term needs vs. long term finance. By building pole barn style I was able to start getting it up and using some of the roof portion almost immediately vs. if I would have had mason come in and lay block for a foundation for conventional build. As far as why did I do horizonatal purlins now vs. going ahead with the stick walls now? Cost. I could put a few 2x4s in a get sides and have it weather tight. As I get a few $ I can go get a few 2x4s and build a section in. Look at it like using a credit card, you know it doesn't make sense to pay 14 - 22% interest, but yet the car is broke down and needs fixed. You can save the money to fix the car or you can use your credit card and get fixed now and be driving the car back and forth to work. Kinda the same idea, instead of paying interest, I'm buying extra wood. Smart? No, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. )</font>

As I was reading your message, it reminded me _exactly_ of a credit card - I was going to actually mention that. Twice the work, twice the expense, for one shed! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Whatever works for you I guess. Seems to be the hard way, but someone has to keep the ecconomy going. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul

 

[LBrown59]

if I would have had mason come in and lay block for a foundation for conventional build.
*************************************jwstewar**************************
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Did you know you don't have to have a block foundation to build a stick type wall on?

I have and old Shed type 12 x 20 garage my dad and I built back in 1971.
We nailed 2 regular untreated 2 x fours together for post and set them about 4 feet apart. Only buried them about a foot or less in the ground.
For purloins we used old used 1 inch boards for both the walls and roof.
The trusses are one 2x4 spanning from the top of one wall to the top of the opposite wall spaced 24 inches OC.
The roof is used old ancient corrugated tin. The Siding was an 8 foot wide roll of clear plastic .
I guess we built a crude version of a pole building and didn't know it.
Ben there for 33 years now and still going strong
9 years ago I added another 12 by 20 section so now it measures 20 deep and 24 wide.
This addition is a combination of pole building stick built and prefab or panel.
The foundation is simply cement blocks laid on the bear ground.
The trusses on this half are same as the older side.
The roof is half inch plywood covered with rolled roofing.
At this time I sided both sections with 1/4 th" OSB and stained it with cedar colored stain, in nine years I have only had to stain it one more time.
I ran the OSB horizontally not vertically starting at the bottom of the wall. When I did the next row I overlapped the top of the first row by 1 inch. done it like that until I got to the top of the wall,

 

[gray]

I have not read every post in this thread but I have gottten the idea. To use metal or not?

I have been a builder in this snow country for 20yrs. Here is what we find.

Metal- Good material to shed snow
If quality material used it will last a long long time
The weak spot is the fastening. Many of the pole barn
builders in this area have crews going out fixing bad
fasteners (leaks). They break down in the weather
and temp. changes. Standing seam or similar metal
does not have this issue, but is most oftem more
money. Properly fastened, it will withstand great
winds; we get 90+ mph nearly every year.

Shingles- 1/2 to 5/8 roof decking over 24" centers will not
sag. The code in our area is for 70 PSF snow load
and we now have to use 5/8 for residential. 1/2 is
still OK by inspectors for storage buildings.
Good seal down roofing properly applied will last for
10 or more years past it's rating. I always use 30
or 35yr. texture look metric type and love the end
results.
Less likely to sweat and low noise in rain.
Will not peal or fade in color.
I have it on my house and it has faced 110MPH winds
without any damage.

In summary: I have used metal in this area. It often has been used for it's past price savings which is not as much any more. A good metal system with standing seam is an excellent choice but very costly. A quality ( not IKO) shingle roof is a long lasting no maintenance roofing, easy to walk on
that ages well.

I prefer a good 30 to 35 yr, seal down roofing over a 1/2 to 5/8 inch deck. Roof it and forget about it.

 

[Buckcreek]

I started checking some more prices , and found the tin, ridgecap and screws for $600 delivered from Holden wva. thats $78 dollars cheaper than the other place.