Shield Arc
Super Member
I built an aluminum tube frame for my Motor Guard filter system. I use it for the plasma, painting, and even the nail guns.
Shopping for quality plasma cutter.
- Thread starter jd4310man
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jimcolt
Gold Member
The effect of moisture in compressed air lines affects different plasma torch designs differently. There are some torch and consumables that will have catastrophic consumable failure with the slightest amount of water....and others that will be minimally affected. I do know that the Hypertherm systems generally will see a slight degradation in consumable life which ultimately affects cut quality.....but you will not see immediate or catastrophic failure with these systems. The best rule of thumbs for controlling moisture:
- Religiously drain (at least once daily) your compressor tank. Better yet, install an auto drain.
- Run about a 20' length of copper pipe away from your compressor with a drop leg (drain valve at the low point) and a coalescing filter at the end of the 20' length. This tends to cool the hot air from the compressor which allows the coalescing filter to "centrifuge" the larger water droplets and remove them from the air. Most coalescing filters have either an auto drain or a manual drain to remove more moisture at this point.
-If you are using a Hypertherm plasma...the above is almost always enough to control moisture....as these units all have an onboard filter and auto drain as well. If using an older plasma or a brand that is affected severely by water....after the 20' copper pile and coalescing filter you can add an absorbing filter (such as a Motorguard), a refrigerated air dryer (best long term method of moisture removal) or a dessicant dryer (there are good ones (more expensive) and not so good ones (beware of the dessicant getting into the plasma system....must have a particulate filter after one of these!).
-Always......install a pressure gauge after all filters and drying equipment right at the inlet to the plasma cutter. When air is flowing at the plasma torch check this inlet gauge periodically to ensure inlet pressure meets plasma manufacturers required inlet pressure (usually 90 to 135 psi). If the pressure drops below this when flow is active at the torch....this could indicate a plugged or saturated filter in your system.
Jim Colt Hypertherm
- Religiously drain (at least once daily) your compressor tank. Better yet, install an auto drain.
- Run about a 20' length of copper pipe away from your compressor with a drop leg (drain valve at the low point) and a coalescing filter at the end of the 20' length. This tends to cool the hot air from the compressor which allows the coalescing filter to "centrifuge" the larger water droplets and remove them from the air. Most coalescing filters have either an auto drain or a manual drain to remove more moisture at this point.
-If you are using a Hypertherm plasma...the above is almost always enough to control moisture....as these units all have an onboard filter and auto drain as well. If using an older plasma or a brand that is affected severely by water....after the 20' copper pile and coalescing filter you can add an absorbing filter (such as a Motorguard), a refrigerated air dryer (best long term method of moisture removal) or a dessicant dryer (there are good ones (more expensive) and not so good ones (beware of the dessicant getting into the plasma system....must have a particulate filter after one of these!).
-Always......install a pressure gauge after all filters and drying equipment right at the inlet to the plasma cutter. When air is flowing at the plasma torch check this inlet gauge periodically to ensure inlet pressure meets plasma manufacturers required inlet pressure (usually 90 to 135 psi). If the pressure drops below this when flow is active at the torch....this could indicate a plugged or saturated filter in your system.
Jim Colt Hypertherm
RCraig
New member
I have used the Thermal Dynamics for years. Never had a problem. Worked as a welder/millwright for the past 30 years.
