FWJ, if nothing else we are at least providing some folks for some good entertainment as that last post explains. You do seem to be mellowing just a bit which aint necessarily a bad thing. I cant wait for next spring when I can use my new favorite farming tool again (JD 7.5 ft pull-type disc), and I still love you man, "Sparky".
Should I Buy This Disc???
- Thread starter scsims
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
When I bought my land, one of my goals was to create a food plot. I had read about it, saw them on TV, but didn't have any experience on it. I read allot of posts on here, but still didn't know what to do. I had a box blade with rippers, so I tried that for breaking up the soil. It did accomplish something, but not really what I wanted.
I saw disks for sale that I wanted, but thought were too much money to spend, so I watched the classifeds for them. Ebay, Craigslist and the American Classifieds for my area. It didn't take long to see one for sale at a fair price, but by the time I called, it was already sold. This happened several times, but after a few months, I found a nice 5ft, angle iron, 3pt disk with greasable bearings for $300 not too far from here.
Since buying that disk, I've seen dozens and dozens of them for sale over the course of a year. Prices vary, but so does quality. Mine is a cheapy that I think is worth what I paid for it. A bigger one, or one that is made from square tubing would be worth more and also allot nicer. Mine gets the job done twice a year when I do my food plot.
Not knowing what it will take to get the disk you are talking about in working condition, I'd probably pass and just wait for one in working condition to come up at a reasonable price. If I really wanted one right away, I would start going to the auctions. But auctions are funny, you really have to know what it's worth and not pay more then you know it's worth.
Good luck,
Eddie
I saw disks for sale that I wanted, but thought were too much money to spend, so I watched the classifeds for them. Ebay, Craigslist and the American Classifieds for my area. It didn't take long to see one for sale at a fair price, but by the time I called, it was already sold. This happened several times, but after a few months, I found a nice 5ft, angle iron, 3pt disk with greasable bearings for $300 not too far from here.
Since buying that disk, I've seen dozens and dozens of them for sale over the course of a year. Prices vary, but so does quality. Mine is a cheapy that I think is worth what I paid for it. A bigger one, or one that is made from square tubing would be worth more and also allot nicer. Mine gets the job done twice a year when I do my food plot.
Not knowing what it will take to get the disk you are talking about in working condition, I'd probably pass and just wait for one in working condition to come up at a reasonable price. If I really wanted one right away, I would start going to the auctions. But auctions are funny, you really have to know what it's worth and not pay more then you know it's worth.
Good luck,
Eddie
charlz
Elite Member
What is the advantage of square tubing? less flex?
I go to some of the auctions around here.... amazing that people will pay new or higher prices for well-used items
definitely know the value and stop when it gets too high At an auction 2 days ago I was talking to a retired guy I see at almost all of them. Over-paying came up in the conversation, he theory is: "Auctions are for things you want and _might_ use... if you come here _needing_ something.... you are going to over pay." Not an hour later I watched some guy pay $265 +10% buyers premium +6% sales tax for a very old Wilton 3002 horizontal bandsaw.... essentially the same saw you can get at HF on sale for $189. Made even more ironic by the fact that I had just picked up an old Kalamazoo 7aw with hydraulic feed, coolant system and auto-shutoff from Craigslist for $125 about 3 days before the auction. I got 10x the saw for less than half the money
But I've been watching Craigslist for a year or two looking for the right deal... why? because I wanted one... didn't really _need_ one. (Although now that I have it and am using it on my new project... I _needed_ it )
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2005
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- 10,641
- Tractor
- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
To the OP, don't bother with the disk, waste of time and effort.
I know that these disks are not like the ones that wolc123 has, but I think that it has been mentioned in the past that non transport disks are no longer built. I believe that they are and that there is not always a reason to have a set of transport disks. A lot of guys disk and then just park the disks on the edge or corner of the field and then use them the next time it's needed. That is the life of that disk and it does not get moved from field to field.
Anyway, here are some links to some new Tatu Marchesan disks.
TATU Marchesan
TATU Marchesan
TATU Marchesan
I know that these disks are not like the ones that wolc123 has, but I think that it has been mentioned in the past that non transport disks are no longer built. I believe that they are and that there is not always a reason to have a set of transport disks. A lot of guys disk and then just park the disks on the edge or corner of the field and then use them the next time it's needed. That is the life of that disk and it does not get moved from field to field.
Anyway, here are some links to some new Tatu Marchesan disks.
TATU Marchesan
TATU Marchesan
TATU Marchesan
Tongy
Member
I have one of those pull type John Deere discs, and it is shot. One outside front disc broke off and the other side has a crack and get clogged up with grass, not a pretty sight. I have a hayfield I'm trying to work up and its lucky to turn over any dirt. I have 2 concrete blocks on the front plus a piece of rail from a railroad track. I took the blocks off the back cause I couldn't pull it in soft dirt with my Ford Jubilee. Now when I get my Massey Ferguson 1540 next week...ah heck, I think I will just hook up the plow and turn some dirt.
Question...how is a 3 pt disc, performance wise????? I really don't use a disc very often, actually, mine sat in the fence row for about 6-7 years.
Question...how is a 3 pt disc, performance wise????? I really don't use a disc very often, actually, mine sat in the fence row for about 6-7 years.
suncoast
Silver Member
What is the advantage of square tubing? less flex?
Yes, that and the sq. tube adds weight to the unit. When I was shopping for a disc, I saw an angle frame disc that had been returned to TSC. The frame was bent in 2 places and a corner weld had been partially broken. The price was reduced $100.00 from list. What a deal! I bought a tube frame unit.
Yes, that and the sq. tube adds weight to the unit. When I was shopping for a disc, I saw an angle frame disc that had been returned to TSC. The frame was bent in 2 places and a corner weld had been partially broken. The price was reduced $100.00 from list. What a deal! I bought a tube frame unit.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
You can't speak of ANY type of disc in broad general terms. There are 3-point disc's that do splendid work, and there are some that are not really worth the effort IMHO. What it takes to make a disc really perform is weight. More specifically, pounds per blade. Almost all have some sort of adjustment capability. The "gang angle" plays a significant role in how they work in varied conditions. MOst folks tend to set that gang angle too aggressively. While that'll make 'em "dig" in most cases, it also causes issues with regard to leaving the ground level. I've always found with any disc I've owned that they perform better with the front gang one "notch" less than the most aggressive setting, and the rear one notch less than the front. Then we get back to that weight issue. The lions share of what I'd describe as "economy disc's" are just too light for most situations. Light in weight and light in STRENGTH...... That translates to not only too light to dig in, but too light to allow adding substancial ballast (without damaging the frame) But, get a GOOD 3-point disc and you can see results that are more than adaquate, as well as on par with the best of any style of disc.
I've got my favorite. I prefer the Massey Ferguson #25 3-point disc. It's easily adjusted from the tractor seat. They have enough built in weight, and they're built "short coupled". (Short front to rear over-all length) That enables the tractor to carry the weight without requiring so much front ballast on the tractor. They work better than any 3-point disc I've ever used.
There are numerous newer brands with adaquate weight. My advice? Get the heaviest one you can find and/or afford.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Apples and oranges.....As you mention, these aren't the same type of disc as this thread is about. Offset disc's are rigid frames by design. For the most part they always have been. They have a different intended use than a "tandem disc harrow". Offsets are essentially a primary tillage tool. And worth noting is the fact that these have capabilities to add a hydraulic cylinder to angle the gangs, eliminating the slow, cumbersome "angle/un-angle" mechanisms of old pull types.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Your post speaks to an issue that is near and dear to my heart. Economy grade implements vs. high quality, heavy duty implements..... IMHO, lightweight tools (of ANY type) are not worth the effort. I want QUALITY. When I'm done with a job, I want the product I paid for with my hard earned money to be in AT LEAST as good of condition as it was when I unloaded it. I despise "throw-away" economy grade tools.
FWJ, I am 100% with you on buying quality tools regardless of age, whatever type they may be. My 3-pt disc was an light model (back in 1951), it is still heavier than the medium duty ones they sell at TSC today, but still too light and obviously responsible for much of my distaste for 3-pt disks in general. The widow I bought my 8n from threw it in with the tractor so at least the price was right. It is the 1951 Dearborn fixed angle economy model and that old nieghbor only worked a 1/2 acre garden with it since he bought it new. The JD pull-type I have is much better built and has very little wear as the original owner also only had a relatively small garden for most years of its use (since around 1950 I am guessing). Most of the equipment I see at TSC will be lucky to make it 5 years of even light use. I think anyone is far better off using thier money on old equipment that is still in decent shape. American's really made some nice stuff in the 30's-60's and because of the rapid disapearance of the small family farm, there is still a ton of it out there. It has gotten a little harder to find, since the spike in scrap steel prices a few years ago, but things like old discs, plows, planters, and cultipackers are still relatively abundant in many rural areas. It does not take much experience to know whether or not they are worth picking up. For example, about 10 years ago I gave a nieghbor a case of cheap beer for a 10 ft cultipacker that was in a patch of brush behind his barn. After adding a couple home-made white oak bearings, it has given me trouble free service. 5 years ago I found a cyclone pto fertilizer spreader at a tractor show flea market for $25. I have no doubt that it will provide many more years of service than the $300 plus new "junk" they are selling at TSC today. The only thing bad about that was nearlly killing my wife making her help me carry it out to the truck (I did give her the light end). My dad just used it yesterday on his JD 790 to fertilize his lawn and he said it worked great. Deals are out there, it just takes a little patience and persistance to find them.
