Should I cab or not. Getting ready to buy

[sallyb]

I am very close to buying my first tractor. One of the last decisions I need to make is if I should get the cab version or not. I currently live in FL and the endless summer is brutal and the AC seems inviting. Problem is I am moving to middle TN and not sure if the cab is needed as much there. I know it gets colder and I know there are seasons and it is something I have not experienced in 30 years.

I am a little worried about the cab height and how it might limit the places the tractor can go. I also know most of the time will be spent with the rotary cutter in the open areas. I don't think I will be crashing through the woods with the tractor but I don't want to limit to much where I can go. I guess I am in kinda a chicken / egg situation. I need a tractor but I am not sure exactly what I will be doing yet except mowing the open spaces. I would love to hear opinions.

Get the cab. Here in West Texas, I have had 2 friends stung by bees while running their tractors to shred, it almost took their lives, cab worth extra cost.

 

[charles todd]

Growing up on tractors without cabs or canopys was humbling. Have an open station Farmall 504. Bought a LS P7010C 7 years ago. Have had more than 1 time that bumblebees have swarmed cab while mowing. Bumblebees are bad news.

The only negative of a cab is the initial purchase price difference. Unless you are using a tractor as a log skidder. Then a cab isn't the only part of the problem. Will also need expanded metal side screens and skid plates. Full forestry package.

Cab. Paid for. Happy.

CT

 

[plumbyII]

I purchased an 80 horse with cab and regret it ever since. Can not store in a garage/shed with less than 8' door height so can not protect against weather and do repairs. $600 to just remove the cab. When AC goes out you cook in the sun, etc. Mice love a cab and eat wiring. Cabs are a lot of trouble with little payback in my opinion. My next tractor will be open station, canopy only, and/or fold down ROPS.

 

[BobInSD]

I think with the “cab vs no cab” debate, you‘ll find most guys with cabs will say “get a cab” and most guys with open station will say “get open station”.
Everyone likes to justify their tractor purchase decision was the best decision ever made.

I'd like to add a minority vote for "no cab". I figure the time in the sun more than compensates for the time below zero blowing snow in my face. I did just upgrade recently and continued with a open station. I'm also cheap, so that didn't hurt but I really do prefer the open station.

 

[rjman]

I had an open station for over 15 years, just got a new tractor 2 weeks ago with a cab. I would never go back to an open station. Something you might not have thought about is rain days, even light rain can get you soaked in an open station. Go cab.

 

[Chip Oidos]

Cab vs no Cab was a tough choice for me. Ultimately, I bought a tractor with a cab and I am very glad that I did. Besides the additional protection from insects, dust, and pollen, it also provides a much more comfortable environment. When the weather is adverse [too hot, too cold, too windy, etc] and I feel the need to get outside, I get in the tractor and do some work.
If your budget permits it, you will be happy with a cab.

 

[Garson]

I had an L275 Kubota for 20 years with no cab. It was outside most of the time and the cockpit suffered from sun and rain. And inclement weather makes one want a cab badly.

Next, an International 235 with canopy for 5 years. The canopy with a windshield was a step up to protect the console and protection from the rain when back in the woods a mile.

Then a Kioti 45 HP with aftermarket cab for 4 years. Bad idea. The aftermarket cab blocked bucket visibility so badly that landscaping was a challenge. It had a heater installed but was not necessary. The windows fogged up when plowing snow unless the man door was removed.

Now for the past 4 years my ultimate tractor, RX7320. Bought it without cab because the factory cab required a 9' garage door opening. I built a cab from scratch that enters my 8" high door for $1000. Inside, the cab has two shelves over the fenders and a shelf over the steering column with lots of storage room. There is loads of information on the web to help design your cab. My cab windows are plate glass (robbed from house windows with broken seals) covered with safety mylar to contain the glass in case of breakage and it works perfectly. My back window is not glass but a 2 pound wood frame covered with the safety mylar "backing" that is perfectly clear and tough and pops in and out, released by 2 magnets. It gets cool in Canada (-30F) but this winter the back window stayed in the tractor garage. You dress warm for being outside anyway. The tractor man door stays in the garage also, winter and summer. For yarding logs (in and out constantly) the door is in the way and the fresh air keeps the windows from fogging. But if you're not going to store the tractor inside a shed then leaving the window and door off is not an option. Buy the factory cab (usually $10K more).

My friend had a DK35 with factory cab and it would fog up completely with all defroster fans running. You had to open the windows and doors to see. Our hot days here are less than 95F and it works fine with the side and back window removed, though I work in the woods mostly on hot days. Not sure if the open field on a hot day would be too hot for working all day? The woods are always cooler.

The John Deere owner who commented herein, "Wolc123" has a great option. Hack a canopy adapted to the ROPS (a couple of hours) and you can always build a proper canopy or cab later if required. I attach a prototype wood cab photo that helped perfect my cab design. It was held in place with wood clamps and duct tape. Bottom line, a home built cab with low height is handy in many places and the dry storage area for chains, tools, etc is wonderful. It's the difference between camping in a tent or a trailer. In a trailer your equipment is on board and ready anytime.

The good news is, Number15, you're on the right track. Every man needs a tractor (or two). : )

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

While the heat here is a factor, I considered not getting a cab tractor.

Until I remembered what running over a Bee's nest was like, and having those palm-sized Banana Spiders drop onto you as you drive through their web.

My tractor is used in the woodlands so my needs are different than most.

As for height, I keep mine in a hi-cap shipping container (9'6"T x 8"W x 40'L). It's a little tight, but it's secure and protected.

 

[HEC]

I have and like both . I like the cab in the winter for sure . My 2650 will go in my garage after I made a few changes to the top door trim and header , but could still use same door . I like the open station in the summer and I mow over 50 acres of field during the summer once and a few acres several times . I have run over bees nests on several occasions and have never been stung . I only mow with a black bucket in the air on my loader and the bees attack that vigorously . I shut the tractor off walk away quickly and in a few minutes they have left . I don't know if it because the bucket is black , it is up just slightly above tractor hood , it is hot from the sun , I don't know but I am sure glad it works . The doors on my 2650 come off quite easily with two people but I leave them on . When doing garden work with the tractor the cab keeps me out of the bugs , especially early spring . It is hard to answer your question as they both have pros and cons and people have different likes and dislikes .

 

[Hermio]

If I had the money, I would have a custom-built cab with a forestry package to protect it from limbs. Yes, I do go into the woods. we have a tree farm consisting of big hardwoods. I do tire of getting whacked on the back of my neck with branches the ROPS has caught. I had a belly guard made to protect the tractor filters and hydraulics, but do not have a FOPS or a branch sweep. I just have to be careful. I do have a loader with a clamshell bucket. Handy to get trees off the trail, within limits. Mahindra 5035. Operating weight about 11000 lb.