Should limited hyd. top link range be biased to longer or shorter?

[WinterDeere]

How would I go about getting the air out?

Usually, cycling full travel a few times will get most of the air out. Many prefer to pre-fill their cylinders and lines with oil, before screwing the quick disconnects on, but most don't even bother with this.

 

[dcarman]

The three point implements are unlimited in their scope and size. At some point you will run into one that won't fit exactly. Get the one that works for now and deal with it when you run into the one that doesn't fit!

 

[WinterDeere]

It's worth mentioning now that, unless you're running a very large-bore cylinder on a very low-flow hydraulic system, you're usually going to want some sort of restrictor on the top link hydraulic line. Some use a small needle valve to make it adjustable, I just went with a fixed restrictor, myself:

Amazon.com

 

[braccet]

Thank you for a link to the part. My cylinder doesn’t seem to be particularly fast moving, but if I still have this problem ill certainly give it a shot for only $13.

 

[Torvy]

Useful thread for me as I am looking for the best option, too.

My manual top link is roughly 18-31+.

It was set at about 25" from dealer with box blade. I'm thinking of one I found that is almost 21" to almost 32". Talk me in or out of that idea.

 

[WinterDeere]

I guess it's hard to give numbers, not knowing your tractor and setup. But maybe it's worth seeing how others actually use their top link, to help those considering them, as to whether they want to bias for more "up" or "down" range:

1. Aligning iMatch quick-hitch with the implement, for total from-the-seat drop and retrieval of implements. I can even tilt it toward me to make reaching the release levers easier.

2. Raising my brush hog hard against its floating top link, to lift it over ravines, etc.

3. Tipping my ballast box up, so when I climb a pile of material (usually dirt or snow pile) for dumping, the ballast box isn't dragging the ground behind me.

4. 3-point pallet forks. Tilt tips down to get into a pallet, then tilt up to compensate sag or prevent load from sliding off forks if driving over rough terrain.

5. Setting correct attitude on 3-point snow blower or rear blade.

Those who do garden plowing probably have other uses, as well.

 

[braccet]

Useful thread for me as I am looking for the best option, too.

My manual top link is roughly 18-31+.

It was set at about 25" from dealer with box blade. I'm thinking of one I found that is almost 21" to almost 32". Talk me in or out of that idea.

Well, if you already have your box blade, your solution is simple. Measure the top link length when level at ground level, and that should be about the midpoint of your range.

 

[OzzyDaveO]

Hi all, new Kioti CK2620SE Cab tractor owner here! Hope my title made sense. I didn't know if this was better for this forum or the hydraulics forum, but since it's more of a general question on length (I have the hydraulics part figured out), figured I'd put it here.

Basically, the situation is that my stock top link goes from 18" to 30" in length. Hydraulic top links are available in two sizes that I can easily find: 18-26 and 21-32. So the question is, should I bias my pick towards the shorter end of the OEM range or the longer end?

Currently I actually have the 18-26 freshly installed on my tractor. I attached a photo showing it fully extended on my Woodmaxx flail mower. You can see that at full extension, the top pin is not very far beyond the bottom pins (2-3"?). And you can see that when fully retracted, it would be quite a bit behind them.

I'd like a bit more tilt out of my flail mower for when it's muddy so the skids don't dig in constantly, but before I swap, just wanted to check to make sure I'm not sacrificing some other implement by losing 3" of max "inward" tilt. The flail mower is the only implement I have so far. Box blade is next. Do you typically need more "outward" tilt than "inward" tilt on a box blade?

Are there any other 3 point implements out there that require a lot of inward tilt? Just trying to cover my bases.

Thanks!

looks like attachment point is tilted back there based on the picture

 

[Torvy]

Well, if you already have your box blade, your solution is simple. Measure the top link length when level at ground level, and that should be about the midpoint of your range.

Also trying to 'future proof' my spending. What about all of the toys, er tools, I haven't purchased yet?

 

[pmsmechanic]

Also trying to 'future proof' my spending. What about all of the toys, er tools, I haven't purchased yet?

I don't remember how I came up with the measurement but when I modified an agricultural cylinder to become a top link I didn't worry about that at all. So far I haven't had any issues with length. What I did was drill another hole in top of my quick-tach to enable a bit more range.