Show What Tool You Made*

   / Show What Tool You Made*
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#131  
Re: Redneck cable drum

I had never tried to pull pipe through the ground with a Big Ox ripper, but a neighbor wanted to bury about 100 yards of 1" PVC. It was in straight joints, not a roll. I drilled a i/4" hole in a 4" piece of steel pipe a little bigger than the 1" PVC and tack welded it onto the back of the plow's shank. We glued all the PVC pipe together, pinned the PVC into the steel pipe and pulled it all in one pull. We buried 100 yards of pipe in a 2 foot ditch in about 2 minutes. We were both amazed.

Ok, so I figured if it takes any more than 5 minutes to plan, source parts and make it - then it would be just as quick to roll it out. Luckily the 2 main parts were in sight in the planning stage and then a quick trip to the cable tie storage area and it was done.
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #132  
Hydraulic RAM spinner / polisher

20MTcrown_pitted_ram_spinner.jpg

Hydraulic ram needed a rebuild and was getting quotes for $500-800 for re-chrome. The machine is not worth that much and I don't use it much i just don't want it to leak.

So with some old motorcycle engine cartridge style bearings (like a 6204), I tackwelded the bearings onto an angle iron. Got a $16 air polisher and discs from Harbor Freight. Friction from the air polisher spins the ram nicely, polishes evenly. ( ! :thumbsup: ! ) Evenly enough for this job anyway.

Easy tool to make but probably will never use it again.... can't say it saved me money because I wasn't going to spend $5-800 anyway but this worked out well, got the new packing and all is well.
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #133  
Re: Hydraulic RAM spinner / polisher

Was doing rear wheel bearings & brakes on my Son's Jetta. Rear calipers are a stupid screw-in design rather than the normal push in style. Mechanic buddy of mine lent me his snap-on set doing the first side but had to give it back before I got to the second after fighting with the bearing for a week. Dug thru the "too good or too many to throw out" bins and made this in about 15 min which is about the same amount of time it would have taken to drive to his house and back.

IMG-20131027-00772.jpg

IMG-20131027-00773.jpg

Did the job and actually worked about as poorly and the snap-on one did. As a bonus, the head is removable to compress regular calipers if I want rather than using a big C clamp.
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #135  
I restore old tractors quite often and it is not rare that the motor is frozen Therefore I created a handy tool to help me, when the cylinders have been left with rust solvent a while then I put this on the PTO so the engine is under tension while I gently taps on the pistons with the a mallet and a piece of wood. SANY0066.jpg
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #136  
I restore old tractors quite often and it is not rare that the motor is frozen Therefore I created a handy tool to help me, when the cylinders have been left with rust solvent a while then I put this on the PTO so the engine is under tension while I gently taps on the pistons with the a mallet and a piece of wood. View attachment 358042

That sure is a nice one! Also, I have no idea how it works. Would you expand a little on that?
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #137  
That sure is a nice one! Also, I have no idea how it works. Would you expand a little on that?

The part with a rod goes on pto and the tube has a spiral spring which pushes the rod. it is a piece of flat iron in the end of the rod so it does not go out of the slot. The idea is that the spring keeps the engine under tension and helps till when I loosen the pistons. The loop on tube is hung either on an engine lift or to a suitable location on the tractor, it is also a threaded rod so the spring can be compressed to make installation easier.
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #138  
That sure is a nice one! Also, I have no idea how it works. Would you expand a little on that?

I would guess that the yoke goes on the tractor's PTO shaft and the cylinder/spring is attached to a solid structure with the "yoke" shaft riding in the cut outs in the cylinder. The now compressed spring puts constant rotational tension (pulls) on the yoke's shaft to help turn the PTO. Since the tractor's PTO is engaged, it is in essence coupled to the engines crankshaft. Any rotation of the PTO translates to the crank turning and producing piston travel. This pulls the pistons downward while Tor can tap the pistons from the top with a mallet to help free them. Is that correct Tor?
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #139  
I would guess that the yoke goes on the tractor's PTO shaft and the cylinder/spring is attached to a solid structure with the "yoke" shaft riding in the cut outs in the cylinder. The now compressed spring puts constant rotational tension (pulls) on the yoke's shaft to help turn the PTO. Since the tractor's PTO is engaged, it is in essence coupled to the engines crankshaft. Any rotation of the PTO translates to the crank turning and producing piston travel. This pulls the pistons downward while Tor can tap the pistons from the top with a mallet to help free them. Is that correct Tor?

Exactly right. It is a great help when trying to loosen the pistons.:thumbsup:
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #140  
would you have plans for this ??
thank you

I'm guessing you are referring to me but not sure.

9" length of 5/8" threaded rod
4 nuts
3 washers
2 pieces of scrap metal

Welded the 2 washers/plates and 1 nut together
Welded one nut on the end of the threaded rod
Nut #3 welded to washer
Nut #4 is a jam nut against the nut/washer combo

As said, these are just parts I had kicking around and was able to make it work
 

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