shuts off when jumper cables removed

[David_Kb7uns]

I could understand why a car would stop with the short and ignition being too much load for the alternator at low rpm. But a tractor with only 100 hours on it sounds like it would be new enough that it would have a fuel shutoff solenoid that would only be energized when you turn the key off. It would normally NOT be energized. Did I miss something???

Sounds like for some reason there is enough charge in the battery to pull the key stop solenoid in once the key stop/safety timer relay looses power and goes into the shut off mode.

I would check to see if there is a fuse or link that is burned on the circuit coming from alternator or dynamo and make sure if it has a dynamo that the regulator is good.

David Kb7uns

 

[catfishdaddyengineering]

It is not a typical short (like in the cable/system that would drain the battery), but it is in the battery itself. It is almost like you took a cable and jumpered across the positive (+) and negative (-) of the battery terminals. The battery will not charge, and the system will not run without the battery disconnected because it is a hard short.

He doesn't say how old his tractor is. 100 hours for some people could be 1,2,3,4,5,15 years old. I replaced my 3 year old battery with 300 hours on it because it sits outside and split the case. Found it because it would not hold the charge and was hard to crank without jumping off.

 

[LD1]

You have been given great advise so far. Do the checks others mention. I would certainly figure out what the problem is before I spent the money on a new dynamo or modified wiring

 

[sailorman]

Identical situation happened on my B2320 . Had battery completely tested at auto supply store and it was bad . New battery and no problem since . That was a year ago .

 

[robbyr]

I unexpectedly started having cranking issues with our Kubota RTV. Could jump it off and ran fine til you switched it off. Checked battery with multimeter (not under load) and it showed 12.88 VDC. So I thought maybe the alternator wasn't charging. Not a mechanic by any stretch but after trying to figure it out for several days I finally bought a battery. No problems since.

 

[Soundguy]

load testers help you out i these cases. 100-500a ver are available pretty cheap at HF. if you own many battery powered vehicles.. not a bad purchase. most of them also have a load setting for testing charge output as well.

 

[k0ua]

load testers help you out i these cases. 100-500a ver are available pretty cheap at HF. if you own many battery powered vehicles.. not a bad purchase. most of them also have a load setting for testing charge output as well.

I used to borrow the one my boss had, It sure was handy.

 

[robbyr]

You talking about those battery testers with the big alligator clamps to clip on the battery then push a switch to put under load and watch the needle? If so, I need to get another cuz I did have one but it quit reading accurately for some reason. Was old though.

 

[k0ua]

You talking about those battery testers with the big alligator clamps to clip on the battery then push a switch to put under load and watch the needle? If so, I need to get another cuz I did have one but it quit reading accurately for some reason. Was old though.

yep, just a big calibrated resistor and a meter. Puts a nice load on the battery to see how it holds up.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. probably nichrome wire.. like from a toaster.. etc..