This cab will fit
B2320,
B2620 or
B2920. I am thinking $1000, I paid $4000 for it in 08.
Why not ask for 50% more than you want? (That's commonly done in legal negotiations--and I speak from experience). You'd still be at only 50% of what you paid (as suggested by KennyG), and you can
bet buyers will try to get you to come down by 50%.
There's a lot of "Wish I'd got a cabbed tractor" or "Wish I'd got a cabbed tractor
sooner" regret out there--you can read about it, right HERE, on TBN. And if someone wants to retrofit a cab to a 2008 tractor, like yours,
and they can't find a used model cab (which I think would be a VERY hard "find") then they'll be paying $4,000., just like you did, right?
Try this on for size:
"FOR SALE: Nice, Sim's Cab: ONE OWNER, in good shape and has console with switches, fan, am/fm radio, Wipers front AND rear, and beacon light. Also has 2 led Work Lights on front (so no need to upgrade your alternator to a higher output, as LED's draw much less power).
This cab fits three popular models of Kubota tractors, WITHOUT MODIFICATION, specifically, the Kubota B2320, B2620 or B2920. While it may fit other brands/models (possibly with modification), I cannot say, but you may be able to find out by contacting Sims yourself.
Comes complete with all manuals and installation instructions.
Why spend $30-40,000., to upgrade to a cabbed tractor, when you can get most of the benefits of a factory cab, for a fraction of the cost?
I paid $4,000. (plus tax). Asking $2,500/OBO. Thanks for looking." (And have pics posted, if at all possible, of course).
Then, when you get a call, and they see it, and start trying to chew you down, tell them about the JD owner who's already offered $2,000.,
IF he can retrofit it, and he's busily researching this as we speak. You can say:
"But, the JD guy didn't leave a deposit, and I've got a bathroom to remodel, so...I can let you have it for $2,000., cash, if you can get it to me before he calls back, so I don't feel guilty. I didn't promise the JD owner I'd hold it for him, and he declined to leave a deposit, but he may call back at any time, and PayPal me a deposit."
I believe you can advertise it, for free, right here:
www.tractorhouse.com. As well as in the classified section of TBN, which someone here kindly informed me of, only a few weeks ago.
And lest you, OP, or anyone else, think my suggested pricing is too high, please know this: If
I bought a cab that fit my tractor, and it originally cost $4,000., and I bought it $1,000., I'd be happily telling people how I STOLE it for just 25% of what the last guy paid. :thumbsup:
Remember:
you can always come down from your "ask," but you can never go up, and the offers you may receive (to pay more than the advertised price) almost ALWAYS come after you've already sold it. (I know this last to be true, as I've missed used items in the past, and offered to pay higher than the original "ask" and/or the final sale price, but was TOO LATE).
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And for any folks concerned with the "ethics" of my suggested "ruse" of the OP claiming to have an interested buyer already researching the fitment of the Sims cab (IF the OP even needs to, get get a fair price for his cab--and I do not think $1,000. is "fair" enough--no offense), I haven't found too many people who are the least bit concerned about "ethics" in the used equipment market. (Plus, he COULD have another party interested--and, as I've learned [the hard way] any potential buyer should expect that, until the sale is final, or a deposit has been accepted [with receipt], nothing is certain. No matter what "promises" have been made, by the seller).
In my own experience, just in the last two years, I've had two [used-only] Kubota dealers sell tractors out from under me, before I could even see them, one being 5 hours out of town, and both of them saying
"No, you don't need to leave/send a deposit--it's not going anywhere." (For the in-town Kubota, I was waiting for a *cough* "friend" to do a quick PPI on it, for me, and he backed out). Also, in the last year, I've had an auto repair shop, and a kid, both tell me (re: two different trucks) that the truck was
"...yours if you want it," only to sell before I could even test drive it (the auto shop), or even see it (the "kid"). I had checked out the auto shop's truck like five times, but it was never running (even to listen to the engine) whenever I stopped in.
And the shop/seller first agreed to a PPI, then suddenly "forgot":
a) how to speak anything but Spanish, and;
b) that he'd agreed to the PPI, and even encouraged me to take the truck to the PPI myself, and hold it a couple of days, as he had no room to park it at his repair shop.
The kid selling a different truck told me I could come in two days (i.e., once the weekend arrived, as it was not local, and I could not get there),
but then (allegedly) "sold" it within 20 minutes of my asking for the VIN, so I could run a Car Fax, to verify it's claimed "Southern, rust-free history." And I even offered to give him the Car Fax (which I would have had to pay for) if I didn't buy the truck, so he could use it to help sell the truck to someone else. (Funny, the timing of that, sudden "sale").
My point is, the OP's cab is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it, and I'm sure the OP would have GLADLY paid $2,000., instead of $4,000., if he'd had the chance, so personally, I think he's got a desirable piece and should get what he can for it, which just may be half of what he paid. (/rant over)
Good luck! (And let us know how you do? Thanks).
My Hoe