Since all you old hands here are so patient...

[flusher]

Working in the woods-steep slopes: you have to be careful here. It's unfortunately the case that you can roll a tractor pretty easily on what appear to be gentle slopes if, for example, you're mowing along the slope and your down-slope front wheel drops into a hole that you don't expect or see. There's no substitute for wide stance and low center of gravity if you intend to use your tractor on slopes.

I've shown these photos many times on TBN the last 5 years--namely, my modified 1964 MF135 diesel that's set up to squat low with oversize rear wheels to maximize the stance. People are probably tired of seeing them, but if it helps, I'm OK with it.



It's a field tractor modified to squat low and have high flotation for work in the olive orchards around here (trees planted on 20-25 ft grid). The normal 28" dia rear rims have been replaced by 16" dia rims that carry those wide Goodrich 6 ply 18.4-16A tires. The front axle spindles are short to keep the tractor level. The axle height is 20" to the axle centerline and the stance is 83" measured to the outside wall of the rear tires. This gives a squat ratio of 4.15. Typical field tractors with taller rear wheels have squat ratio around 2.8-3.0.

The 135 mods are one way to make a tractor safer for work on slopes. Another way is rear duallies.

Take care and be safe. Good luck on your tractor quest.

 

[DAY]

Don87 makes a good point.
Why do you want to buy this property? We are not saying don't, but you need to look at it from all angles. Price, distance from work/friends, love the view, etc.
In addition to getting the county agent out there, try to get a farmer (any neighboring ones?) to take a look at it, maybe give you a little history. Knowledge is power. . .

 

[Soundguy]

hire out the initial big logging work and cleanup / prep to 'real' heavy equipment and operators.. they will do it fast, and you won't be buying machines you use once then let set. then.. with that 20% of the work out of the way.. buy a machine that does the other 80% for you. to your specifications.

soudnguy

 

[johnrex62]

Just a little more on my situation so you can see why I started with the bigger tractor line.

I live in central Texas where the things we call trees you guys in Georgia call thickish weeds. What we call tall you guys call getting started.

I have a 37HP CUT with 30HP at the PTO. It is at it's limit handling the trees on my property when they are alive and while it can handle the downed trees it is not big enough to pick them up with a grapple easily. I can drag them all over the place and push them into a pile without issue, but I cannot "manhandle" them. Your trees will me more of an issue than mine would be and I cannot imagine doing much to them with my tractor without serious risk of damage to the FEL or injury to myself (on flat land, trying not to think about steep slopes with such an anchor tied to my poor little tractor sliding along behind the tree trunk)

I think my Kubota L3700 could handle the mowing, but a larger tractor could handle a larger rotary cutter and do it faster. A 5' mower is my ideal size and a 6 footer might bog down in heavier stuff on my 30Hp PTO. Mower size guideline is usually about 5hp per foot of mower width.

I agree with the common wisdom that you will be wiser to outsource the woods cleanup as much as possible. I tend to try to do everything I can and responded first in that mindset, but I realize that often outsourcing is easier, safer and sometimes cheaper in the long run for this type of project. That said, I am still cleaning up my property myself despite my excellent advice to you to outsource. In my defense, mine is much easier to do than yours will be. :laughing:

 

[BradGad]

Don87 >Since you haven't purchased the property yet, is there a chance you could purchase a different place.

DAY >Why do you want to buy this property? We are not saying don't, but you need to look at it from all angles. Price, distance from work/friends, love the view, etc.

We mainly buy it because it's enough land to do any of our agribusiness ideas, and it seems like a great deal (20 acres w/ decent house for $140k). Also, it's an easy commute to work.

 

[Don87]

Don87 >Since you haven't purchased the property yet, is there a chance you could purchase a different place.

DAY >Why do you want to buy this property? We are not saying don't, but you need to look at it from all angles. Price, distance from work/friends, love the view, etc.

We mainly buy it because it's enough land to do any of our agribusiness ideas, and it seems like a great deal (20 acres w/ decent house for $140k). Also, it's an easy commute to work.

Understood.

At least do as others suggested, let someone else do the logging work.

I used to be a logger, and I know how dangerous it can be..........especially with blow-downs. That can be extremely dangerous (I haven't seen pictures so I can only imagine). Myself, I can, and will tackle any tree that isn't laying on power lines.

I can't help you with the tractor decision, but I've seen some pretty steep hills being farmed effectively.

 

[doall]

Hey; I really like your ambition, I'm pulling for you to do it.

The only thing I have to add, is that I bought a 40 horse tractor, 4wd, and loader. I have never wished I would have not went with 4wd or loader. There have been a couple of times that I wished I would have bought a 50 horse; but have never wished I would have went smaller. If I would have bought a 50, I bet there would have been a few times that I would have wanted a 60.

 

[charleyfarmall]

Back to the original post, he said he was looking at the ck27. I have one and I love it for what it can do and what it gets used for. It is not too narrow and I have never had an issue with it steep slopes compared to other tractors.

However, if I had 20 acres and only one tractor, the CK27 is not what I would choose. The wheelbase is only 66 inches and if you are field mowing you are going to get beat up by bouncing and pitching at any reasonable mowing speed. It's great for mowing a couple of acres but a field is too much wear on YOU.

I would most definitely look at the DK40/45 which will do all of what you want and very nicely too. I don't think you will need to run 50hp unless you are trying to run a 3 bottom plow or a larger tiller. While I have bogged down a 50 hp tractor, it hasn't happened often and 90% of what I do doesn't need it.

Clearing land is hard work and takes a long time. I just passed up 100ac old farm for a 40ac farm because there was twice as much open land ( and flat) on the smaller farm even though the bigger place had an awesome old house and view. I went for the farm land and the 40x80 barn instead.

Good Luck

 

[DAY]

We mainly buy it because it's enough land to do any of our agribusiness ideas, and it seems like a great deal (20 acres w/ decent house for $140k). Also, it's an easy commute to work.
Asked and answered!:thumbsup:

Others, wiser and more experienced at logging than I, say get professional help with the blow downs. That is a one time "situation"- like the house needs a new roof- and best done by a pro.

Remember, too, that this is "Tractor by Net", and those machines are our obsession, but what size and brand you buy is just one of many decisions you two will be making over the course of this adventure.
Buying the "wrong" tractor is an easily corrected mistake, planting the "wrong" orchard, and waiting ten years to discover the error, is not.

I find that, after fifty years of rural living, that one of the most important "tools" I have is a sense of humor.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. hard to base initial purchase on a 1-time huge task, unless you intend to resale immediatly after, then buy the tractor that handles all the regular tasks afterwards.. btdt.. etc.. easier IMHO.. just to hire the monumental stuff out, then get the one that you really want / need..

soundguy