Single acting valve

[mwemaxxowner]

I have a BX1880 that I ordered with rear remotes. It has 2 pairs of factory remote valves. I am curious if it would be possible to run a single acting cylinder off of these, or one of these, and how I would go about plumbing that.

Many thanks!

 

[oldnslo]

You can operate single acting cylinder with your current setup.

will this be a momentary operation where you lower cylinder like on dump trailer? If yes simple way is idle tractor down and lower the trailer. You will be forcing oil from the pump over relief while lowering but if only for few seconds should not affect system.

other option is to connect jumper hose from unused port on directional valve to tank. This way while lowering pump flow is unloaded to tank.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

Yessir, the goal is to run a small dump trailer in the yard. Thanks!

Stupid question...when it comes to routing "to the tank". On a tractor like this, does that mean getting creative and tapping into the hydraulic fill cap or something, or is there a way I don't know about to tap back into the reserve hydraulic fluid?

 

[oldnslo]

Mw
On the rear valve stack there should be a tank line. You can tee into that line for a tank connection.

 

[lennyzx11]

Everything said her so far will work ( I dabble in hydraulic projects).
1. Hook up one hose and leave the other remote disconnected. At idle or even tractor off the down function flows through the pressure relief. This isn’t the best way but as said momentary down dumps won’t hurt it.
2. Best is to Tee a line into the tank return at valve. Unscrew line at valve, install a tee in valve and original tank line in opposite opening of tee. The on 90° opening use 1/4” line (to slow drop down speed) and put a remote disconnect on other end of line to connect to the 2nd line of remote. An elbow at this end would make it tidy rather than a big loop back in the line to plug it up.

You can leave this one connected all the time till you need to operate a double acting cylinder. Or disconnect and leave it tucked back out of the way when not being used.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

Thank y'all very much. One set of my rear remotes has been completely unused thus far (other set is for my HTL). The only real plan I have for it is a yard dump trailer, so I don't see a problem with setting it up that way to do it "properly".

I may or may not get a tilt cylinder some day, but so far I'm leaning towards the cost vs frequency that I would use it won't work out well. At 150 hours I've still never done any work where I wanted to tilt my box blade or my rake.

 

[mwemaxxowner]

While we're at it () I hope to set the trailer up with a manual pump, and have the option to dump pumping it manually or tie into the tractor and dump more easily with the tractor hydraulics.

I figure for this all I need to do is have couplers between the manual pump and the cylinder, which I can disconnect when I need to, and have other lines made up long enough to reach from that point to my tractor. I could couple the tractor lines from the remotes to the cylinder, or disconnect that and couple the manual pump. If there are other and better ideas, fire away!

I want to have the option to dump it if I'm moving it around with my truck, but without investing in an electric pump, battery, etc since I figure 90% of my dumping will be from the tractor.

 

[oldnslo]

Your manual pump will require a reservoir with a volume greater than the lift cylinder. Easily doable just needs to be considered up front.

you would never use both top link, side link and dump trailer at the same time so could easily unplug tilt for use with trailer.

 

[LouNY]

Or use a normal two way cylinder which would also give you a power down and when switched to the manual pump would require a much smaller reservoir as the only volume difference would be the rod area.

 

[LD1]

If you are concerned about lowering the trailer and deadheading the pump....just shut the tractor off to lower the dump. Restart the tractor and resume operation.

Ideally I would want a DA cylinder. Lowering a dump on gravity alone is pretty slow on most trailers. And for me....I am lowering while also driving back to wherever I am working. That isnt gonna work with the tractor off....and wont be real practical at idle and deadheading the hydraulics while lowering either