Sizing Pallet Forks

[arnoldziffel]

I'm using a Yanmar tractor, about 30hp. HST.

I want to buy a set of pallet forks. I did a search on "sizing pallet forks" , got a lot of good general information but haven't found specifics on sizing.

I understand that forks too heavy or too long will reduce the weight of what I can lift.

I'm thinking 42" models are probably safe. I'll use the forks for around the home chores. Nothing super heavy.

Thoughts/opinions?

 

[Guesseral]

42" is what I got and they work great, I measured the forks on the forklift at work and they were 42" so that is where I went if a forklift can lift a pallet with 42" them figured I was good and I was. I only worried because a friend of mine had some 36" forks and they just didn't work when picking up a pallet of anything because they just weren't long enough and the pallet would latterly crush and come off the front, so I went with the 42". There are some pallets that are extra long larger than 48"x48" and they would require longer forks or fork extensions but that would not be the norm or at least not in my world. In any event I couldn't justify the extra cost going to the 48" because 42 works fine and the 48 well they are heaver and more money! I am sure you will get many other opinions on it but that is mine.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

I use my 36'' class II forks everyday to move pallets around and do not have any problems with the length as long as the pallets are standard size. I have fork extensions that I use for the extra long pallets. My forks are 3.25'' wide by 1.18'' thick, 71 lbs apiece and rated for #3000.

 

[GManBart]

I like to have forks that are rated so that either side could handle the entire load the FEL is capable of lifting….that way if you mess up, and put all the weight on one side (or nearly so), you won't bend a blade. That makes them a bit heavier, which reduces overall lift capacity, but makes it less likely you'll damage anything.

 

[PILOON]

The shorter the forks, the easier to maneuver.
Forks need only to be about 10% longer than 1/2 the pallet depth.(1/2 of 48" pallet=24" so 32" forks are fine,( assuming pallet is balance loaded))
I used to sell fork lifts and majority of applications had limited space to maneuver, and shorter forks often solved the 'narrow isle issues'.
Fact is rear forks would be the best overall solution both for weight, stability and maneuvering issues providing you don't plan on stacking loads., but then racks would be required.
Placement of loads with rear mounting would be as easy as using a real fork lift due to the steering geometry. Visibility is also superior.
also your 3-point has a much higher weight capacity.

Also to consider is fact that buckets are rated based on center of gravity loads (load centered in bucket) and adding forks will probably even 1/2 the load capacity due to extended C of G.
i.e.; bucket forks on a 1000lb FEL could become overloaded with even a 400 lb load!

As well fabricating a 3-point fork mounting is far simpler to accomplish than adapting to the front.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I have Land Pride PF-10s (3) they are rated at 1K # for the pair. They are 32" long. I doubt you can even lift that much with your YM. I have a Kubota BX 25, raised the hyd pressure to 2000# and can now lift 500# if it is all the to the back and fully tilted up. At that load w/o rear ballast the rear tires are almost off the ground. 3 forks work better if you are handling things like lumber or logs like I do. Also good for lifting brush so the bush hog can cut it better. I made a set of 4' forks to go on the 3PT. That gets me to 800# for moving heavy loads like logs 3' D by 4' long or a 1/4 cord of fire wood on a pallet. I assume your bucket is a pin on not QH like mine. Forks on the QH like the new BX25D will lift a lot more as you are getting the load 2' closer to the arms.

Ron

 

[crazyal]

I doubt you'll ever need anything more than 36". If possible I would try to find a solution that isn't going to clamp onto your bucket. Otherwise you're going to be very limited on how much you can lift.

 

[TomSeller]

Long forks are fine if you need to load deep onto a bed of a truck or something of that nature. On the negative side, they are awful long when you are trying back away and turn at the same time such as in close quarters.

 

[Ken45101]

10% past the middle might work in a warehouse environment, but I sure wouldn't trust it for uneven ground where a downgrade would shift the center of gravity forward.

I mostly use mine for moving half cord pallets of firewood. I want all the support I can get under those pallets, so I want full sized. Likewise, being able to reach into the truck bed to unload something.

Of course it all depends on what you will be using them for,and what your tractor is rated for, but I've unloaded full ton pallets of pellets from the trailer, plus the firewood which may run around a full ton when green.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

The shorter the forks, the easier to maneuver.
Forks need only to be about 10% longer than 1/2 the pallet depth.(1/2 of 48" pallet=24" so 32" forks are fine,( assuming pallet is balance loaded))
I used to sell fork lifts and majority of applications had limited space to maneuver, and shorter forks often solved the 'narrow isle issues'.
Fact is rear forks would be the best overall solution both for weight, stability and maneuvering issues providing you don't plan on stacking loads., but then racks would be required.
Placement of loads with rear mounting would be as easy as using a real fork lift due to the steering geometry. Visibility is also superior.
also your 3-point has a much higher weight capacity.

Also to consider is fact that buckets are rated based on center of gravity loads (load centered in bucket) and adding forks will probably even 1/2 the load capacity due to extended C of G.
i.e.; bucket forks on a 1000lb FEL could become overloaded with even a 400 lb load!

As well fabricating a 3-point fork mounting is far simpler to accomplish than adapting to the front.

Finally, its good to read this from someone else here on TBN