Skid Steer rippers

Cord · Aug 28, 2013

Trying to do some digging with my skid steer and I'm having a devil of a time getting it to penetrate the ground. The topsoil stripped off ok, but there is a layer of rocky clay underneath that is very hard. If I can get under it, I'm able to lift out big chunks of soil, but the next layer is sand and that equals a instant stuck. Now I have to dump my bucket so I can push myself out. 2 hours of work equalled a 16" deep trench 12' wide by maybe 50' long. Frustrating.

My bucket has a flat back on either end in front of the tires. I was thinking of welding a couple of tabs on and then mounting a box blade ripper shank on the back of the bucket. If I don't want the rippers, I can just flip them around. I'd rather have a third or forth ripper in the middle of the bucket, but the bucket mount is in the way. I have four of these chisels on a subsoiler I built for the compact tractor that I no longer own. They're just like this one: Shanks 18" 4 PC LOT 4 Hole BOX Blade Scarifier Ripper Blade 3pt Hitch Implement | eBay The shank is 3/4"x2-1/2". Think that shank will live with a skid steer? It's a 80hp, 2300lb lift, Gehl 6635. My concern is folding up the shank If I catch a rock or bending it if I try turning the skidsteer.

Bigkrank · Aug 29, 2013

I bought a 24" subsoiler shank at a farm auction for $20 and mounted it on my trailer mover plate. I only try and drive straight when its in the ground.

Cord · Aug 29, 2013

I was thinking of using a subsoiler shank too. That or a ripper for a small excavator. So far, I haven't found any shanks and the rippers have all been too far away and too big.

Xfaxman · Aug 30, 2013

You could buy or build a 3 point to SSQA adapter and try your subsoiler.

The commercial ones are designed to be pulled in reverse, like I do my 6' box blade.

https://www.google.com/search?safe=...igrock.com%2Fmultiripperskidsteer.htm;300;300

I have teeth on the bucket, it will dig hard clay and sandrock.

tessiers · Sep 2, 2013

We used to have one on a bull dozer that hung in front of the blade and attached with 2 pins on top of the blade, ripped going forward and you could back drag because it just dragged on top. Used to use it for ripping stumps, worked pretty well. Something along these lines, smaller of course.

http://www.brownebrosinc.com/images/Range-Management-Tools/DozerTools/Square-Dozer-Rake-Side.JPG

Arc weld · Sep 3, 2013

Get a tooth bucket or tooth bar for your bucket. :thumbsup: Teeth on a skid steer bucket turn it into an entirely different machine! A 2300 lb. capacity skid steer will dig like a small cat with teeth. That's why they don't make small crawler loaders anymore. One of the first jobs with my new skid steer was digging up a weed invested gravel covered parking area behind a garage. I thought it would be easy digging and didn't take my tooth bucket to the job. Bad mistake, the smooth bucket was useless and I had a dump truck coming with new gravel and to haul the old stuff away. I had no choice but to go home and get my tooth bucket. IT was like a hot knife through butter compared to the totally useless smooth bucket. I ate the cost of the dump truck having to wait and from then on always carried both buckets on the trailer. The customer was great and added $30 to cover some of the extra cost. If you do put teeth on, get the pin on teeth instead of the crimp on teeth. So much easier to change and last a whole lot longer. Putting rippers on the back of your bucket could twist it all to chit. You've got a big skid steer with a lot of power. The buckets aren't that strong in the back like a cat bucket.

Cord · Sep 4, 2013

Currently have a tooth bar mounted with the crimp teeth. Wish I had bolt-on teeth, but it's what came with the machine. If I ram the machine into the bank or dig with the corner of the bucket I can make progress, but I don't want to break something. I liked the idea of using the subsoiler, but the thing is only 48" wide and too lightly built for this size machine.