Slick 50

/ Slick 50 #1  

WileyG

Bronze Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2015
Messages
60
Location
Guntersville,AL
Tractor
Yanmar YM3000 Kubota L3430HSTC
Anybody here use any crankcase additives for engine heat reduction? The reason I ask is due to the single instance that I was involved in with extreme outdoor temps....

In the summer of 1994 I was working in the Mojave Desert in Arizona. We had a John Deere 850 cable plow that was running at the very edge of overheating. Actual outdoor temps were well above 100 degrees every day, approaching 120. I ended up draining a gallon of engine oil and adding a gallon of Slick 50. The engine temp went down at least 20 degrees under full load and even more when not loaded. I would not have believed it if I weren't right there to witness it.
 
/ Slick 50 #2  
I used it years ago once and it was supposed to give better fuel MPG. I didn't see any difference. Most all of the so called "enhancement additives" are just snake oil.
Any properly designed motor doesn't need any additional additives to work properly.

I remember the STP ad and how it reduced friction. Come to find out, it really just gummed up your engine block while doing no good at all in reducing friction. It sure spent a lot of money sponsoring race cars though. They sure didn't have any gum up problems since they completely rebuilt their engines after every race.
 
/ Slick 50 #4  
if old school slick 50 were as revolutionary as the OP suggests (or any of the other so called enhanced engine oil additives), then why wouldn't oil or auto manufacturers currently be using them in their own applications and formulas?
 
/ Slick 50 #5  
Put slick 50 in a 1967 GTO after breaking in the rebuilt original 400 engine for 2000 miles, engine temp immediately jumped 15-20 degrees.

I drained the new oil mix out and switched back to regular non synthetic 10w-40 without the Slick 50 in about 2 weeks of driving the temp settled back to normal.
Never again...



I have had luck reducing coolant temps in Muscle cars by adding a water wetter to the coolant and also adding an external oil cooler though.


ps. did find a use for STP but not in an engine, have added it to 2 different rear axles After being told about it by a friend who had a noisy plow truck axle.

1 was noisy and 1 ran really warm while towing

it quieted down the noisy rear axle and the jeeps rear axle does run cooler. But YMMV:)
 
/ Slick 50
  • Thread Starter
#6  
if old school slick 50 were as revolutionary as the OP suggests (or any of the other so called enhanced engine oil additives), then why wouldn't oil or auto manufacturers currently be using them in their own applications and formulas?


I never said it was revolutionary. I just posted a personal, one time experience.
 
/ Slick 50 #7  
I never said it was revolutionary. I just posted a personal, one time experience.

I am sure it did just as you described in your case. What was the oil being used, do you recall?
 
/ Slick 50
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I am sure it did just as you described in your case. What was the oil being used, do you recall?


Pretty sure we ran Rotella T back then but I couldn't say what viscosity. That was the absolute hottest environment that I ever worked in and I'm glad I got out of there when I did.
 
/ Slick 50 #9  
I know years ago there was an issue with slick 50 because it contained Teflon. While that sounds good, when it is under pressure the molecular chains would bind together and cause issues because it would turn into sludge in high pressure situations. There were cases of blocked oil filters. I didn't even know it was still around.
 
/ Slick 50 #10  
I know years ago there was an issue with slick 50 because it contained Teflon. While that sounds good, when it is under pressure the molecular chains would bind together and cause issues because it would turn into sludge in high pressure situations. There were cases of blocked oil filters. I didn't even know it was still around.
Havent seen it(slick 50 or STP lately but then again I don't look in auto supply houses for my oil and filter needs. They may still carry it. I only buy auto parts from auto supply places, I get my oil and filters at Wally World at substantial savings. My hydraulic oil I get from farm and ranch supply houses.
 
/ Slick 50 #11  
Run a good full synthetic oil, avoid snake oil like Slick 50.

I agree, run the right grade full synthetic oil and call it a day. You won't need anymore. They do amazing jobs reducing friction and cleaning up engines.

DEWFPO
 
/ Slick 50 #12  
By pulling out a gallon of oil putting a gallon Slick 50 back in that is a case where I think you'd a difference....Good or bad. That's a substantial amount.
 
/ Slick 50 #13  
Anybody here use any crankcase additives for engine heat reduction? The reason I ask is due to the single instance that I was involved in with extreme outdoor temps....

In the summer of 1994 I was working in the Mojave Desert in Arizona. We had a John Deere 850 cable plow that was running at the very edge of overheating. Actual outdoor temps were well above 100 degrees every day, approaching 120. I ended up draining a gallon of engine oil and adding a gallon of Slick 50. The engine temp went down at least 20 degrees under full load and even more when not loaded. I would not have believed it if I weren't right there to witness it.



Slick50 ain't what it used to be.


Xcelplus: What happened to Slick-5? Interview with JohnBishop - YouTube
 
/ Slick 50 #14  
My "positive" Slick 50 experience: Years ago, probably 30 or more, I broke the spur gear driven shaft in the right final drive of my John Deere tractor while plowing deep heavy snow. That shaft snapped like a stick pretzle and the larger inner bearing was rough. Dealer got the shaft to me PDQ, but bearing was on back order. I assembled the tractor and contnued working as that gearing was growlling at me all the while. I added the bottle of Slick 50 (pint or half pint, I do not recall) and the bearing began quieting down and by the time the bearing arrived it was quiet. The hytran oil was Quatrol, the OE fluid. That "new" bearing is still in my parts collection wrapped in oil paper. It would always growl again soon after fluid changes and I added Slick 50 to again stop the growl; until I began using the more recent formlae of JD Hy-Guard. With the Hy-Guard there is no bearing noise. 1982 tractor, runs like new. Desperate measures for desperate times.

prs
 
/ Slick 50 #15  
My "positive" Slick 50 experience: Years ago, probably 30 or more, I broke the spur gear driven shaft in the right final drive of my John Deere tractor while plowing deep heavy snow. That shaft snapped like a stick pretzle and the larger inner bearing was rough. Dealer got the shaft to me PDQ, but bearing was on back order. I assembled the tractor and contnued working as that bearing was growlling at me all the while. I added the bottle of Slick 50 (pint or half pint, I do not recall) and the bearing began quieting down and by the time the new bearing arrived it was quiet. The hytran oil was Quatrol, the OE fluid. That "new" bearing is still in my parts collection wrapped in oil paper. It would always growl again soon after fluid changes and I added Slick 50 again stop the growl; until I began using the more recent formlae of JD Hy-Guard. With the Hy-Guard there is no bearing noise. 1982 JD 650 tractor, runs like new. Desperate measures for desperate times.

prs
 
/ Slick 50 #17  
I used the original Slick 50 for years and probably unknowingly used the fake stuff after that.

I saw two different testamonials to the original that sold me on the product.

#1: I was at an off road buggy race and saw them treat a souped up air cooled VW engine with it. They went out and ran several laps (don't remember how many) then they drained the oil and took it back on course with no oil in it. They ran several more laps and brought it back in and refilled it. It had no knocking or signs of any engine damage but was not torn down.

#2: I knew a back yard mechanic that ran a mullet boat on the side. It had an inboard 4cyl chevy engine and one of the rods began to knock during the mullet run season. This was a heavy wood boat pulling several hundred feet of net full of fish so it had a tremendous load on the engine. He poured Slick 50 in it and ran it the rest of the season with the engine knocking. The knock never got better or worse but the engine continued to run. I personally saw the rod bearing insert that came out when that engine was torn down. It was nothing but the steel backing shell with no copper or babbitt left on it. The shell was slick as owl chit and smooth as a baby's butt.

I never had an engine fail that I had run the Slick 50 in. One engine was an old 11HP B&S that was still running when I hauled the mower to the dump at 20+ years old. That mower was on it's 3rd deck and the tires were rotting off of it. If the steering gear wasn't worn out I would have probably repaired it again but the cost would have been near the cost of a new mower so I trashed it.

I used a generic that claimed it contained genuine Dupont PTFE a few times. I think it was Duralube but their product does not currently have that claim on it. They came out about the same time as Slick 50.
 
/ Slick 50 #18  
WOW! I didn't even get the real McCoy but, luckily, it did work for us. Now I'm really curious what the real product might have done under the same conditions.

It was the original formula that caused the overheating in the Then new Pontiac 400 engine.\

Have 2 Briggs twins in the riding lawn mowers listed with the avatar, both have been run on Shell Rotella T with no additives one is about 33 years and the other is 43 years old now. Both run great and have had many belts and deck repairs, fuel pumps and air filters but no internal work of any kind and run great.

I did also try a oil treatment called Pro-Blend they also made the water wetter that did work,

tried the 1 Carroll Shelby used to advertise for- Z Max and also Dura Lube didn't do anything but dent my wallet.
 
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