Slip Clutch Adjustment help!

[TheMan419]

So yesterday I think I was still too tight. Tractor lugged and shut down. Shouldn't that be the situation where I have slip instead?

 

[brown40]

Definitely. I'd start from scratch and make sure you do 6-10 starts and stops in light material (for a tiller unbroken ground should work if the clutch isn't bound tight) to be sure you polish the friction discs. Be sure you get the compression off all your springs; if you the discs don't visibly separate from the plates--ensure they aren't bound. Pry them each apart from one another, then hand tighten the nuts back down to contact the springs. That's a fine start to polish--getting the surfaces touching is the thing.
There should be no question when you look back to see the shaft turning, and the tines stopped.
You loosen it so the discs can sand imperfections on "mating" surfaces, then tighten it to slip at "99.9%" your PTO output--or let it slip earlier.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I have never adjusted my tiller slip clutch. I like it the way it's set right now. It'll stall the engine but most times I'm quick enough to shut the pto off before the engine stalls.

I don't reset it every spring as I store my tiller inside and it doesn't get rusty.

^^^^ ^^​

Perfect -- assuming it does sometimes slip as the engine stalls.​

There is much ado about very little in the thread. A slip clutch is a catastrophic overload prevention device. It should not act within normal max torque of the tractor, but only above that.

You are making a mistake not servicing your slip clutch;if it stalls the tractor the clutch is "not" working period.It is not that difficult to do.

Well, at some point in time you'll be posting a question on how to rebuild your tractor's pto clutch...

You guys havnt a clue.​

Try to figure out a good question to ask.

Your right! I haven't got a clue what you are trying to say.

Sorry. The presentation was unclear unless you recognized my included quote as being in answer to your initial post on the thread.​

 

[Ford850]

I think is sounds like you need to run your tractor in a lower gear rather than rely on your slip clutch to resolve your tractor running out of torque. A slip clutch should be protecting against hard sudden shock (think rock or root) similar to how a shear pin protects the PTO. Be sure you are running at the proper PTO RPMs and that you have it in a very low gear. I'd start in the lowest gear and work up from there. If your tractor is still running out of power, then limit the depth for the first pass.

 

[SPYDERLK]

So yesterday I think I was still too tight. Tractor lugged and shut down. Shouldn't that be the situation where I have slip instead?

This sounds perfect assuming you dont have a small implement on a big tractor. In that case the slip point would have to be set well below tractor capability.

... For a cat 1 implement on a 30/40 HP cut you have a good match and can just limit your slip point to take full advantage of the power on hand. The gearboxes of tractor and implement can sustain loads beyond their power rating by 2x, maybe more. To take full advantage of your power you would try to limit torque just above the tractors steady capability. IOW it would lug down and stall -- NOT abruptly.

Your description sounds right. Did the slip clutch get pretty warm?​

 

[SPYDERLK]

NOT[/U] abruptly.

Your description sounds right. Did the slip clutch get pretty warm?​

If it did not warm at all try 1/8 turn looser. You want evidence of some slip as the tractor lugs down toward stall. There is a lot of information to be garnered from heat and stall rate.

 

[TheMan419]

If it did not warm at all try 1/8 turn looser. You want evidence of some slip as the tractor lugs down toward stall. There is a lot of information to be garnered from heat and stall rate.

I did not check to see if it was warm. I will do so on the next round. My instinct at this point is that I need to be a hair looser, but I am oh so close it seems.

As for those telling me to go a gear lower.... tractor is HST. So I can certainly press down less on the pedal. If I keep at a slow walking pace it seems that I will lug on occasion. If I pick up the pace from there engine lugs OFTEN.

When it shut down on me there was no large rock or anything to be found. Also while it was quick to shut down it did not seem like a sudden jolt that I would expect if I were to hit a large rock.

When I run into a small rock and bring it to the surface I can feel it and hear it, but the engine does not lug much if at all.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I did not check to see if it was warm. I will do so on the next round. My instinct at this point is that I need to be a hair looser, but I am oh so close it seems.

As for those telling me to go a gear lower.... tractor is HST. So I can certainly press down less on the pedal. If I keep at a slow walking pace it seems that I will lug on occasion. If I pick up the pace from there engine lugs OFTEN.

When it shut down on me there was no large rock or anything to be found. Also while it was quick to shut down it did not seem like a sudden jolt that I would expect if I were to hit a large rock.

When I run into a small rock and bring it to the surface I can feel it and hear it, but the engine does not lug much if at all.

A sudden hard jolt is where it should definitely slip. Problem is a brief jolt will cause so little slippage that you wont detect heat, whereas a fairly quick lugdown[2 sec] of the tractor should cause 5 or 10 slip turns. Clutch would be warm.

 

[bigtiller]

So yesterday I think I was still too tight. Tractor lugged and shut down. Shouldn't that be the situation where I have slip instead?

No, that's not what a slip clutch is for. In this instance you should stop moving forward and wait for the engine rpm's to catch up.

 

[Tigershark]

Just curious what size tiller are you running ? I have a 40HP with a 72" and never had had it bog down or even lower the RPMs even when breaking new ground, I did have to dial the slip clutch in but it never bogged the tractor down, I would make shallow passes at first then worked each pass a little deeper. our clay is like concrete when it has no moisture so I try to till after a rain if possible

 

[TheMan419]

Just curious what size tiller are you running ? I have a 40HP with a 72" and never had had it bog down or even lower the RPMs even when breaking new ground, I did have to dial the slip clutch in but it never bogged the tractor down, I would make shallow passes at first then worked each pass a little deeper. our clay is like concrete when it has no moisture so I try to till after a rain if possible

5 foot. I am tilling 4 inches or so deep. We have a good bit of clay. Also tractor is only 24 hp.

 

[bigtiller]

5 foot. I am tilling 4 inches or so deep. We have a good bit of clay. Also tractor is only 24 hp.

PTO hp is what you need to consider. The 24 hp shrinks to 16.6 pto hp. A 5' tiller is a pretty big load for it. You're doing good by precisely dialing in the clutch to save the drive train.

TractorData.com New Holland Boomer 24 tractor information

 

[TheMan419]

PTO hp is what you need to consider. The 24 hp shrinks to 16.6 pto hp. A 5' tiller is a pretty big load for it. You're doing good by precisely dialing in the clutch to save the drive train. TractorData.com New Holland Boomer 24 tractor information

Yep I realize I am pushing the limits. Once my project of converting the former corn field to pasture is over the tiller will get occasional use.

This forum is invaluable to me since I was not raised a country boy and have no experience about this kind of stuff. I am learning though.

 

[Tigershark]

That is a lot of tiller for that tractor, I just tilled one acre of sod to convert it into crops this evening and it was hard as concrete because we haven't had rain in so long, I always have one hand on the draft lever to raise immediately if I start hitting something hard or it starts bouncing like crazy. My tractor's RPM never drop when I till regardless of what I am tilling so I have to think you are asking it to do too much. I always try and strip off the top layer first one my first pass, probably 3 inches at the most then make multiple passes going deeper. I would assume the 4 inch pass is probably too much at one time, try going a little more shallow. I have my clutch set to slip when I hit rock hard dirt so if I slip I just raise up and gently lower to a shallow level. I would imagine I could tighten my clutch and go it pretty hard but the tractor and tiller would be bouncing me all over the place. If you have a disc it might help to make a first pass with it

 

[CincyFlyer]

Yep, dialing it in is a PITA. I just found out that the slip clutch on my stump grinder is set properly, when I ran into a rock that brought everything to a screeching (literally) halt. The engine was dragged down, but didn't stall, and the clutch noisily did its job. No harm to anything (other than some carbide cutting bits with somewhat shortened lives ...)

 

[TheMan419]

So I think all is finally well. Was able to till yesterday at a slow walking pace. But it was enough to let me get an acre an hour or so done.

Thanks all for the advice on the slip clutch.