Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch

[rfore1]

I dont know what to tell you w/o looking at the parts. Seems, if it was functioning, you could clean it up, grease that shaft and put it back together and be alright. You should be able to adjust the clutch to a reasonable torque point to protect the tractor. Our Kub L's are pretty tuf. Weve stalled them many times hitting stuf with the 127. They show no ill effects.
,,,It was pmsmechanic that was right about the balls. I just recognized it when we figured out the model 205. He has apparently worked on one like it. I havnt. The GB and clutch are much beefier on the 127 Gyramor.
larry

Ok I appreciate it.

 

[rfore1]

If you want to keep your old mower just look on eBay for a gearbox kit. I picked up a new PTO shaft c/w slip clutch, gearbox, flails and attaching hardware for a 5 foot mower for right around the $600 mark. I'd be tempted to just pick up a slip clutch and PTO shaft on eBay or at Surplus Center and see if a machine shop can't machine the input shaft so that the slip clutch will work on it. I have mixed feelings between a slip clutch and a sheer bolt. Slip clutch is nice until it rust's up and then it seems like it's an expensive repair job. Sheer bolt isn't as handy but is a lot cheaper in the long term.

I know too from working on that 205 last summer that there are bushings in the slip clutch housing on the shaft. Maybe all you need to do is replace them and the wobble would be gone. Just another angle

Thanks for all the help by the way, it is definately a 205 not 127. After you took the bearings out how did you put them back in, and was the bushing readily available.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I just did a bit of looking and my mower and the one I worked on were both 506 models. A bit newer than the one you have I believe. The bushings are not available from Deere but I just went to a farm supply store and bought generic bushings with the right outside and inside diameters. I also ordered new ball bearings as the ones I removed were garbage. I don't remember what I did to take the old bushings out as they are in a blind hole. I probably just made myself a cape chisel and split them with that so that they could be removed. If I look at the parts diagram for a 205 there is no drawing on part number W14799 that shows there is a bushing in there. If you look at the similar piece for a 506 in the parts book then you can see the drawing for a bushing. If there are no bushings in your holder (W14799) for the slip clutch I would just take that part and the input shaft from the gearbox to a machine shop. A good machinist should be able to bore part number W14799 for bushings that are a snug fit on your input shaft. He might have to clean up the input shaft a bit too or else build it up and machine it true again. Also lots of times a machine shop can make new shaft's cheaper than you can buy them at the dealer.

Just reread the post and realized I missed something. When I replaced the bearings I just lined up the grease zerk hole with the grove in the shaft and dropped the new ball bearings in. If you end up taking the parts to a machine shop make sure they realize that the grove for the bearings has to stay in the shaft and the holder otherwise they become useless as you have no way of keeping the shaft and the holder together. Hopefully I've explained everything well enough so that you know what I mean. Good luck.

 

[rfore1]

I just did a bit of looking and my mower and the one I worked on were both 506 models. A bit newer than the one you have I believe. The bushings are not available from Deere but I just went to a farm supply store and bought generic bushings with the right outside and inside diameters. I also ordered new ball bearings as the ones I removed were garbage. I don't remember what I did to take the old bushings out as they are in a blind hole. I probably just made myself a cape chisel and split them with that so that they could be removed. If I look at the parts diagram for a 205 there is no drawing on part number W14799 that shows there is a bushing in there. If you look at the similar piece for a 506 in the parts book then you can see the drawing for a bushing. If there are no bushings in your holder (W14799) for the slip clutch I would just take that part and the input shaft from the gearbox to a machine shop. A good machinist should be able to bore part number W14799 for bushings that are a snug fit on your input shaft. He might have to clean up the input shaft a bit too or else build it up and machine it true again. Also lots of times a machine shop can make new shaft's cheaper than you can buy them at the dealer.

Just reread the post and realized I missed something. When I replaced the bearings I just lined up the grease zerk hole with the grove in the shaft and dropped the new ball bearings in. If you end up taking the parts to a machine shop make sure they realize that the grove for the bearings has to stay in the shaft and the holder otherwise they become useless as you have no way of keeping the shaft and the holder together. Hopefully I've explained everything well enough so that you know what I mean. Good luck.

When I get the time I will try that, I really appreciate the help.