Rotary Cutter Slip Clutch

[Tx Jim]

I think holder(parts key #1) is rusted(stuck) to gearbox input shaft. Have you applied liberal amounts of your favorite penetrating oil such as PB-Blaster or Kroil?

 

[rfore1]

I think holder(parts key #1) is rusted(stuck) to gearbox input shaft. Have you applied liberal amounts of your favorite penetrating oil such as PB-Blaster or Kroil?

Wow, just what I've been looking for, i have looked everywhere. I think your right, that key is the trick. I raelly appreciate it. I' ll keep you posted on how it goes.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Wow, just what I've been looking for, i have looked everywhere. I think your right, that key is the trick. I raelly appreciate it. I' ll keep you posted on how it goes.

Dont see how that could be from the diagrams.

Yes, the large threaded portion has the wobble, as matter of fact from the plate next to the gear box all the way to he end of shaft wobbles, but im pretty sure that is one piece. the large threaded portion is connected to the plate. Yes there is a grease fitting that screws in where the large threads are, had to take it off to back off the castle nut. Yes the end of the shaft you are looking at is keyed on one side and the yoke slips over it and a bolt holds it in place.

I don't know if your model is the same or not but I worked on a deere rotary mower this summer. I forget the number but the slip clutch came off by taking out the grease nipple and pulling out the ball bearings inside. There's 9 or 11 ball bearings in there. If you go to John Deere Home Page Redirect and look up a parts diagram for your model it should give you clues as to how everything is put together. Parts are expensive.

Use your penetrant down the hole left by the grease nipple. The diagram calls for 12 balls in there. ... Apparently the [ shaped piece turns the input shaft to the gearbox. Hopefully there is a plain bearing between the two coaxial parts that is worn, giving the wobble.
larry

 

[pmsmechanic]

I've tried to take stuff like this apart before. Sometimes the key will wear a notch into the parts and if there is play which there is you need to turn the loose part in the direction opposite of normal rotation to help it slide off. I've run into worn out 540 PTO's and key ways that do this. Just a thought. You might have to get forceful with a hammer. If you could rotate in opposite direction and hammer at the same time....

Just read SPYDERLK's post. If there is balls down there just rotate and fish them out with a magnet. That's what I had to do to a 506 this summer. Mine has a sheer pin and my buddy's has a slip clutch and his was the one that needed repair.

 

[rfore1]

Dont see how that could be from the diagrams.



Use your penetrant down the hole left by the grease nipple. The diagram calls for 12 balls in there. ... Apparently the [ shaped piece turns the input shaft to the gearbox. Hopefully there is a plain bearing between the two coaxial parts that is worn, giving the wobble.
larry

Thanks ill try that, i appreciate your help. Hopefulley i'll be able to get to it this evening.

 

[rfore1]

Thanks ill try that, i appreciate your help. Hopefulley i'll be able to get to it this evening.

Bad news, went to the john deere dealer today to check on parts. Just for clutch parts alone 200.00, the hub that is on the shaft out of the gear box is 500.00. Good news, I have to get a new hog. Just can't see spending 700.00 on something that might not work out anyway. I'll keep it around and maybe try to find some second hand parts in the future, maybe use it for a back up. I really appreciate everybody's help.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Bad news, went to the john deere dealer today to check on parts. Just for clutch parts alone 200.00, the hub that is on the shaft out of the gear box is 500.00. Good news, I have to get a new hog. Just can't see spending 700.00 on something that might not work out anyway. I'll keep it around and maybe try to find some second hand parts in the future, maybe use it for a back up. I really appreciate everybody's help.

What is wrong with it? I thot you said it was working fine - just wobbling.
... If you look for another, try to find a 127. If the gearbox hasnt been run dry it will be good. The chassis will be worth fixing if the heart is still good. JD made it in '58 as a Bush Hog beater. Let it die after they proved they could.
larry

 

[rfore1]

What is wrong with it? I thot you said it was working fine - just wobbling.
... If you look for another, try to find a 127. If the gearbox hasnt been run dry it will be good. The chassis will be worth fixing if the heart is still good. JD made it in '58 as a Bush Hog beater. Let it die after they proved they could.
larry

I'm gonna try and fix it, but I'm probably going to buy a new one. You were right about the ball bearings. A good man who works at a local shop stopped by today and confirmed what you said. Problem is the clutches were rusted together and the hub's slight wobble. If the hub is worn its 500.00 not to mention the clutch plates. The real problem I have with it is I have new tractor and I'm worried that the cutter may damage it if it malfunctions. Oh, once you fish the bearings out do you put them or the new ones back the same way.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I dont know what to tell you w/o looking at the parts. Seems, if it was functioning, you could clean it up, grease that shaft and put it back together and be alright. You should be able to adjust the clutch to a reasonable torque point to protect the tractor. Our Kub L's are pretty tuf. Weve stalled them many times hitting stuf with the 127. They show no ill effects.
,,,It was pmsmechanic that was right about the balls. I just recognized it when we figured out the model 205. He has apparently worked on one like it. I havnt. The GB and clutch are much beefier on the 127 Gyramor.
larry

 

[pmsmechanic]

If you want to keep your old mower just look on eBay for a gearbox kit. I picked up a new PTO shaft c/w slip clutch, gearbox, flails and attaching hardware for a 5 foot mower for right around the $600 mark. I'd be tempted to just pick up a slip clutch and PTO shaft on eBay or at Surplus Center and see if a machine shop can't machine the input shaft so that the slip clutch will work on it. I have mixed feelings between a slip clutch and a sheer bolt. Slip clutch is nice until it rust's up and then it seems like it's an expensive repair job. Sheer bolt isn't as handy but is a lot cheaper in the long term.

I know too from working on that 205 last summer that there are bushings in the slip clutch housing on the shaft. Maybe all you need to do is replace them and the wobble would be gone. Just another angle

 

[rfore1]

I dont know what to tell you w/o looking at the parts. Seems, if it was functioning, you could clean it up, grease that shaft and put it back together and be alright. You should be able to adjust the clutch to a reasonable torque point to protect the tractor. Our Kub L's are pretty tuf. Weve stalled them many times hitting stuf with the 127. They show no ill effects.
,,,It was pmsmechanic that was right about the balls. I just recognized it when we figured out the model 205. He has apparently worked on one like it. I havnt. The GB and clutch are much beefier on the 127 Gyramor.
larry

Ok I appreciate it.

 

[rfore1]

If you want to keep your old mower just look on eBay for a gearbox kit. I picked up a new PTO shaft c/w slip clutch, gearbox, flails and attaching hardware for a 5 foot mower for right around the $600 mark. I'd be tempted to just pick up a slip clutch and PTO shaft on eBay or at Surplus Center and see if a machine shop can't machine the input shaft so that the slip clutch will work on it. I have mixed feelings between a slip clutch and a sheer bolt. Slip clutch is nice until it rust's up and then it seems like it's an expensive repair job. Sheer bolt isn't as handy but is a lot cheaper in the long term.

I know too from working on that 205 last summer that there are bushings in the slip clutch housing on the shaft. Maybe all you need to do is replace them and the wobble would be gone. Just another angle

Thanks for all the help by the way, it is definately a 205 not 127. After you took the bearings out how did you put them back in, and was the bushing readily available.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I just did a bit of looking and my mower and the one I worked on were both 506 models. A bit newer than the one you have I believe. The bushings are not available from Deere but I just went to a farm supply store and bought generic bushings with the right outside and inside diameters. I also ordered new ball bearings as the ones I removed were garbage. I don't remember what I did to take the old bushings out as they are in a blind hole. I probably just made myself a cape chisel and split them with that so that they could be removed. If I look at the parts diagram for a 205 there is no drawing on part number W14799 that shows there is a bushing in there. If you look at the similar piece for a 506 in the parts book then you can see the drawing for a bushing. If there are no bushings in your holder (W14799) for the slip clutch I would just take that part and the input shaft from the gearbox to a machine shop. A good machinist should be able to bore part number W14799 for bushings that are a snug fit on your input shaft. He might have to clean up the input shaft a bit too or else build it up and machine it true again. Also lots of times a machine shop can make new shaft's cheaper than you can buy them at the dealer.

Just reread the post and realized I missed something. When I replaced the bearings I just lined up the grease zerk hole with the grove in the shaft and dropped the new ball bearings in. If you end up taking the parts to a machine shop make sure they realize that the grove for the bearings has to stay in the shaft and the holder otherwise they become useless as you have no way of keeping the shaft and the holder together. Hopefully I've explained everything well enough so that you know what I mean. Good luck.

 

[rfore1]

I just did a bit of looking and my mower and the one I worked on were both 506 models. A bit newer than the one you have I believe. The bushings are not available from Deere but I just went to a farm supply store and bought generic bushings with the right outside and inside diameters. I also ordered new ball bearings as the ones I removed were garbage. I don't remember what I did to take the old bushings out as they are in a blind hole. I probably just made myself a cape chisel and split them with that so that they could be removed. If I look at the parts diagram for a 205 there is no drawing on part number W14799 that shows there is a bushing in there. If you look at the similar piece for a 506 in the parts book then you can see the drawing for a bushing. If there are no bushings in your holder (W14799) for the slip clutch I would just take that part and the input shaft from the gearbox to a machine shop. A good machinist should be able to bore part number W14799 for bushings that are a snug fit on your input shaft. He might have to clean up the input shaft a bit too or else build it up and machine it true again. Also lots of times a machine shop can make new shaft's cheaper than you can buy them at the dealer.

Just reread the post and realized I missed something. When I replaced the bearings I just lined up the grease zerk hole with the grove in the shaft and dropped the new ball bearings in. If you end up taking the parts to a machine shop make sure they realize that the grove for the bearings has to stay in the shaft and the holder otherwise they become useless as you have no way of keeping the shaft and the holder together. Hopefully I've explained everything well enough so that you know what I mean. Good luck.

When I get the time I will try that, I really appreciate the help.