small engine synthetics

   / small engine synthetics #1  

jimmysisson

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1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
Hi all. The search function doesn't work this AM, so this may be covered elsewhere. What does everyone think about using synthetics motor oil in, say, a wood splitter? Mine is an 8 hp Briggs horizontal that runs at full governed RPM with variable, sometimes heavy, load. I'm thinking of the benefit of easy starting (recoil) mostly. I change oil yearly, after maybe 40 hours operation. Engine is in good shape. Thanks, Jim
 
   / small engine synthetics #2  
I just replaced my wood splitter 5 hp i/c b&S after 12 years of splitting probably 1000? cords. We changed the oil once a year with dino 10w30. My guess would be 150 hours between changes. This is far from what is recommended and more hours than it should have gone in total. Now my new 6.5 B&S gets 5w30 synthetic and probably won't last half as long /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif. The only reason I am now using it in my small gas motors is it is cheap due to the amount used. In theory it should last longer with synthetics but I think 12 years is plenty for any B&S with probably 1500 hours.
 
   / small engine synthetics #3  
Oh what a can of worms you have opened. I personally use synthetic motor oil in all my vehicles, car, truck, tractor, lawnmowers, (push-riding) Some do not think that synthetics are worth the extra money. Small air cooled engines run hot. Synthetic oil, in my opinion withstand the heat better than dino oil. Modern day automotive engines also run hot. (Emissions) I have several friends who are auto techs and they like synthetics for engine protection. Just my opinion.
 
   / small engine synthetics #4  
The good thing about running synthetics in small engines is the small amount of oil they hold. It only costs a couple of bucks more per oil change. In that case it is probably worth it. But... it's probably not neccessary. I can't even count how many old small engines I've seen that were ran on a dino oil, most of them not maintained as they should have been, and still running without trouble. IMO... as for most small equipment, the machine itself will give up before the engine.

In September I bought a new generator. It has a Wisconsin/Subaru engine and it came with Mobil 1. I've only had to change the oil once.... but I will continue to use the Mobil 1 in it.
 
   / small engine synthetics
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks all. I guess what I was wondering was whether the engine which doesn't use oil now would start burning with synthetic. I use straight HD30 dino now, and store this thing in a shed. It starts well but pulls hard, and I always wonder how quickly it's getting lubed at startup. I hold the throttle down to slow idle for a minute or so. I think I'll just switch over and see how it works.
Is a multigrade synthetic like 5W-30 safe for this splitter application? Thanks again, Jim
Jim
 
   / small engine synthetics #6  
</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Thanks all. I guess what I was wondering was whether the engine which doesn't use oil now would start burning with synthetic. I use straight HD30 dino now, and store this thing in a shed. It starts well but pulls hard, and I always wonder how quickly it's getting lubed at startup. I hold the throttle down to slow idle for a minute or so. I think I'll just switch over and see how it works.
Is a multigrade synthetic like 5W-30 safe for this splitter application? Thanks again, Jim
Jim )</font>

Jim
Hopefully you can read a copy of the manual from my new Briggs motor(after resizing). It should answer a couple of your questions.
 

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   / small engine synthetics #7  
Had a serious several conversations with factory rep for small engines 10 years ago, said don't use synthetics, their tests showed their engines ran hotter on them.

Mike
 
   / small engine synthetics #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Had a serious several conversations with factory rep for small engines 10 years ago, said don't use synthetics, their tests showed their engines ran hotter on them.

Mike )</font>

Which engine manufacturer? I don't dought what you say.. but like I mentioned in another post, my generator came with Mobil 1. And a generator is subject to a lot more long run times than most equipment. Heck... when I first got it... it nearly ran for 8-9 days nonstop! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / small engine synthetics #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hi all. The search function doesn't work this AM, so this may be covered elsewhere. What does everyone think about using synthetics motor oil in, say, a wood splitter? Mine is an 8 hp Briggs horizontal that runs at full governed RPM with variable, sometimes heavy, load. I'm thinking of the benefit of easy starting (recoil) mostly. I change oil yearly, after maybe 40 hours operation. Engine is in good shape. Thanks, Jim )</font> <font color="blue"> </font>


Depending on the geographical area, low weight multi-grade oil can cause an engine to rattle and or smoke a little until it reaches operating temperature. Although the synthetic oil that I use stated that it would not void the manufacturers warranty, to avoid any chance of having a claim denied if it ever became necessary to make one, I used exactly what they said to use until the warranty period was over, which was dictated by date and not by time on the motor.

Here is a site which is a very good source of unbiased information about oils. www.motoroilbible.com
 
   / small engine synthetics #10  
I changed to synthetic oil in all my small engines FIRST, because they're the ones that'll benefit most because they're air cooled and likely run a bit hotter than water-cooled. Synthetics can stand higher heat without breaking down.

Now, I've synthetic in all my engines and have even put synthetic power steering oil in a couple of the vehicles.

Ralph
 

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