small engine synthetics

[SkyPup]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I changed to synthetic oil in all my small engines FIRST, because they're the ones that'll benefit most because they're air cooled and likely run a bit hotter than water-cooled. Synthetics can stand higher heat without breaking down.

Now, I've synthetic in all my engines and have even put synthetic power steering oil in a couple of the vehicles.

Ralph )</font>

Ditto to all that for us too! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Plus synthetic brake fluid is way better as well.

 

[mrutkaus]

I don't quite remember the manufacturer, it was not B&S, the other major one, used in snowblowers. I was doing the resume of this gentleman and I questioned him again and again but he was insistant.

Mike

 

[DmansPadge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I don't quite remember the manufacturer, it was not B&S, the other major one, used in snowblowers. I was doing the resume of this gentleman and I questioned him again and again but he was insistant.

Mike )</font>

Kohler perhaps? My generator came with a Wisconsin Robin/Subaru and I dought thats who you talked to. No biggie... I was just curious.

 

[midlf]

Probably Tecumseh.

 

[fractal]

Briggs and stratton say to use 10w30 synthetic or single grade dino. 30w dino for temperatures above some temperature I won't work below and some other grade below that. They say NOT to use dino multi-grade oil.

I use mobil 1 10w30 in my air cooled engines. Maybe not the best oil in the world but I am only 1/3 through the case I bought at costco a half a decade ago.

 

[ericbx1500]

</font><font color="blueclass=small">( Had a serious several conversations with factory rep for small engines 10 years ago, said don't use synthetics, their tests showed their engines ran hotter on them. )</font>


I deal with many reps day in day out in the auto industry. I am not here to prove you or him wrong but it’s amazing on how many reps are not educated in the field they per cure. A lot of reps today are pre programmed on what to tell you. Actually I don’t even consider them reps but rather corporate salesman. Running synthetic does not make your engine run hotter. I don’t have proof of this just common sense /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Less friction=less heat

 

[5030tinkerer]

I have a 52" mower with a B/S 20hp motor in it that I've had for perhaps seven years. I just put Royal Purple 30W in it, used it hard to mow a few acres that were wildly overgrown, and just last night I heard it start knocking. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Hmmm...I wonder if the Royal Purple loosened enough crud to put the filter into full bypass? I only let it knock/rattle for a total of maybe five seconds. Plans are to put a fresh filter on it along with a Royal Purple refill. We'll see, but I am not presently terribly happy with my choice to switch to synthetic on that particular machine (though have had issues like this with synthethic conversions before).

 

[5030tinkerer]

I have a 52" mower with a B/S 20hp motor in it that I've had for perhaps seven years. I just put Royal Purple 30W in it, used it hard to mow a few acres that were wildly overgrown, and just last night I heard it start knocking. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Hmmm...I wonder if the Royal Purple loosened enough crud to put the filter into full bypass? I only let it knock/rattle for a total of maybe five seconds. Plans are to put a fresh filter on it along with a Royal Purple refill. We'll see, but I am not presently terribly happy with my choice to switch to synthetic on that particular machine (though have had issues like this with synthethic conversions before).

 

[Sully2]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hi all. The search function doesn't work this AM, so this may be covered elsewhere. What does everyone think about using synthetics motor oil in, say, a wood splitter? Mine is an 8 hp Briggs horizontal that runs at full governed RPM with variable, sometimes heavy, load. I'm thinking of the benefit of easy starting (recoil) mostly. I change oil yearly, after maybe 40 hours operation. Engine is in good shape. Thanks, Jim )</font>

I have 3 different "smaller" gasoline engines here at home..and was told ( and didnt belive it) that running MULTI WEIGHT oil in them would increase oil CONSUMPTION....and in 2 Kohler's and 1 B&S...its a FACT. STRAIGHT 30W in them runs fine..very , very low consumption. I switch to 10W-30...and oil consumption triples! But...if ya check the oil all the time...its no big deal. Not like 30W uses a ounce per hours and multi weight ues a allon or anything.

I DOUBT SERIOUSLY if switching to a SYN oil is going to affect easier starting..one way or the other! My 8 HP Kohler on a rear tine tiller..is a definate "MUTHA" to pull start any time of the year....MAN has it got some compression... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Sully2]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Hi all. The search function doesn't work this AM, so this may be covered elsewhere. What does everyone think about using synthetics motor oil in, say, a wood splitter? Mine is an 8 hp Briggs horizontal that runs at full governed RPM with variable, sometimes heavy, load. I'm thinking of the benefit of easy starting (recoil) mostly. I change oil yearly, after maybe 40 hours operation. Engine is in good shape. Thanks, Jim )</font>

I have 3 different "smaller" gasoline engines here at home..and was told ( and didnt belive it) that running MULTI WEIGHT oil in them would increase oil CONSUMPTION....and in 2 Kohler's and 1 B&S...its a FACT. STRAIGHT 30W in them runs fine..very , very low consumption. I switch to 10W-30...and oil consumption triples! But...if ya check the oil all the time...its no big deal. Not like 30W uses a ounce per hours and multi weight ues a allon or anything.

I DOUBT SERIOUSLY if switching to a SYN oil is going to affect easier starting..one way or the other! My 8 HP Kohler on a rear tine tiller..is a definate "MUTHA" to pull start any time of the year....MAN has it got some compression... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif