Small Pole Building Question

[Shenandoah]

A couple other things worht noting...Given the shorter spans of the posts (looks like 8' at most over the door) the 2x10 + 2x8 header is probablly overkill...

Pardon the interuption (new guy here)...one of the advantages to using overkill on the door header is the ability to bore a hole in the center for a removable heavy-duty eye-bolt.

I use this method frequently and hook my come-along to the eye-bolt to lift heavy objects and use the additional sunlight provided by working in the doorway. When I'm done I remove the eye-bolt. Since the header can be one of the strongest structual elements this works great for my purposes. YMMV.

 

[LD1]

Pardon the interuption (new guy here)...one of the advantages to using overkill on the door header is the ability to bore a hole in the center for a removable heavy-duty eye-bolt.

I use this method frequently and hook my come-along to the eye-bolt to lift heavy objects and use the additional sunlight provided by working in the doorway. When I'm done I remove the eye-bolt. Since the header can be one of the strongest structual elements this works great for my purposes. YMMV.

If that is the plan ( in this case or any case), I'd opt for double 2x12's over the door header. But that depends on what you define as "heavy".

In the case of what I was talking about, wasnt the door header (I dont think). Usually door headers are 7' or 8' high. I guess I was assuming a taller wall than that, but if walls are only 8 high, then yea, that header would double as a door header.

 

[Carl_NH]

Generally speaking engineers want a stout header on a roof and floor joist bearing side, and less is needed on a gable end, since there are minimal loads on the gable ends.

 

[Cobble]

This is a rather small building, 16' wide.... there is no reason to use the two beams as you have shown on the plan... maybe two beams would be needed if you were going to build a larger building, but one beam centered on each end will be more than sufficient. you can have one beam on each end, supporting a ridge board between the two ends... the rafters can join into the ridge board from each side of the bulding, and 2x6's in 12' 14', or 16' lengths... depending on the pitch of the roof... can be used -a couple plans below are included for reference.

I live in FL, no snow here, snow loading is not a problem, though we do have the hurricanes every so often. If engineered correctly, you can eliminate even the 2x6's, and use engineered 2 x 4 trusses for spans under 16'.

if you stick bulid it, use a ridge board, rafters, and side "ties", you might can eliminate the beams all togther

If you really want to thrift the building, stretch the building to 9' height... space 2x4 studs 2' on center,
then run 3 sheets of painted metal ( comes in 3' widths & cut to length) horizontally for the sides... This will save on time & paint.