Smart Home Wiring

[rf33]

I think that two CAT5 should be enough for each room, unless you are going to need more that 1 network jack and 4 phone lines in each room that is. Remember that CAT5 or 5e for that matter has 4 pairs of wire in it. With plain old telephone service (POTS), each line requires only one pair. With CAT5 having 4 pairs, you can actually have 4 phone lines per cat5 wire.

Having said this, I also think that it is pretty cheap insurance to run more wire when the house in in the construction phase, as it is really pretty cheap / easy to run it at this stage, and stinks to have to add later.

 

[RobS]

<font color=blue>I also think that it is pretty cheap insurance to run more wire when the house in in the construction phase</font color=blue>

I think I'll be pretty well set with 2 cat5 lines. My other form of cheap insurance will be to run a couple of empty conduits from the basement to the attic /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[MossRoad]

I'd avoid splitting out pairs for phone lines. Use one CAT5 cable for each connector and punch down all eight wires to a CAT5 RJ45 jack when you terminate it. The wire is inexpensive(less than $100.00 per one thousand feet) so don't skimp here. You'll be happy later when you need to add something and the wire is already there. Eventually, sophisticated home phone systems might go voice over IP, so you'll be covered if that happens.

 

[shade2u2]

Mossroad,
Can one use standard phone plugs with RJ45 jacks?
Rob,
Check this sight for <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mjsales.net/quickport.htm/>Leviton QuickPorts</A> for info on wallplates/jacks.
I did run some empty conduit from our basement to attic, which means that I will probably never need it./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[MossRoad]

Technically, no. In reality, yes /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. They just snap right in and latch in place just like an RJ11.

 

[JDIceman]

Rob,
I think you will be fine with 2 cat5e & 2 coax. Make sure all are homeruns, do not loop any. If you must loop the only one that could be looped would be the voice cat5e. I would not put cat5e & coax in the same box, I would use the metel plaster ring screwed to the stud, placing them so cat5e's are on one side of stud and coax is on the other side. I would use this method even on exterior walls as you can always stuff extra insulation into hole to stop cold air drafts. Most definately install empty conduits from basement to attic as large as practical with nothing smaller than 1". I did this in my house, 1-1",1-11/4",& 1-11/2", and have installed something in each of those. Make sure you label every wire on both ends and also sketch the layout of your house or use an extra drawing you might have and mark those id's onto the drawing this will help you tremendously, and make sure that drawing is kepted after the project is completed for future reference. Graybar is a national electrical,voice,data supplier that will have everything you may not find elsewhere. Home Depot is very competitive here in the Youngstown,Ohio area. Please feel free to ask any questions, I will be glad to help you, ( it's that 790 brotherhood thing ).Just in case your wondering this is my occupation. good luck & best wishes, Chuck

 

[MossRoad]

Our Gray Bar is pretty sticky on selling to businesses only. If you have a business account, they are OK.

 

[RobS]

Thanks Chuck, sounds like the voice of experience /w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif I'm still trying to take in all this good advice but can't quite understand why I wouldn't want to put all my runs into a workbox, even an extra deep two gang. What is the advantage of the metal plaster ring? Is it because the coax terminations are so long?

I've checked out the Leviton website, it's very useful. I like the looks of their quickport products. Can I use these on a metal ring also? I'll be in Detroit later this week and plan a visit to Home Depot. Their on-line prices do seem good but we don't have a store nearby. Also planning a visit to one of their Expo design centers up there. Supposed to be very nice.

Thanks again to everyone for the great suggestions /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[rf33]

I personally would go with the boxes. The metal ring type I believe you are referring to do not hold the plate in place as well, and tend to be pretty hard to get lined up straight. If it the type I am thinking of (here they are called caddy-fasteners), they are really best for post construction stuff. Actually even for post construction work, you can use the plastic boxes with the "ears" which tighten against the back of the drywall.

 

[PaulT]

I used the decora style outlets/switches (1 rectangle, rather than 2 oval for outlets, large rectangular rockers rather than small toggles with slotted faceplate). Besides the fact that I like how they look, they are also the same format as the leviton modular wall system. They all use the same face plates, with different inserts. You can get compatible inserts for data, phone, video, audio speaker wires. You can get up to 8 inserts in a single gang box, but that would be more for small speaker wire. I have two data and one video terminated in each single gang box. It was tight, but fit OK. I ran two of these drops to each room, because you never know how the furniture will get arranged/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.

I don't think you need 2 video cables to each location in every room. The only reason to have 2 video cables is to backhaul a second video signal to a switch, while watching another one. If I wanted to backhaul a high def signal (like DVD), the cable won't do it without an expensive transceiver at the source to convert, say component out, or s-vhs out, to the RG6 media. Then you would need another transceiver at the other end to convert back again. Cheaper to buy a second, third, etc DVD player. At most I might have two cables to the main A/V center for this purpose. Why would you ever need to backhaul a signal from, say the guest room?

Also, now that I have my cat5 wiring in place, my brother leapfrogged me with wireless. It would be less expensive if you only have 2 or 3 pcs to use wireless. I would be using it if I didn't invest in the wireline technology/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif