OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
Just checked, when I stand I have about the same visibility as I have seated on a skid steer. I can see my entire bucket.
Smooth loader bucket vs stump
- Thread starter gladehound
- Start date
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pat32rf
Veteran Member
I find the best way on those little 10-18" maple trees is to dig first, push high, then cut the stump off the tree after its laying down....Let the weight of the tree pull the stump.....Either that or use the hoe after it has aged for 5-10 years....longer if it is oak..
OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
Definitely agree on pushing the tree over. However, at the time I removed this one I did not have anything big enough to push it over (just had the 19 hp tractor and did try to push it first before cutting it.)
OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
I received the Spartan stump bucket. So far I like it. Went out and plucked out one small stump (about 5 inches) just because I felt I just had to use it. shoved a tooth right between two roots and under the stump and pried it up in one motion utilizing the leverage from the built in pivot point. A key thing is that the bottom is the same width front to back so it will go into the ground easier than one that is shaped like a pyramid (I don't understand why the pyramid design exists)!
I don't have problems with visibility like others mentioned. I can precisely place each tooth. Construction is plenty heavy for my use (not as heavy as some). The sides are 3/8". The bottom and back are 3/16" with 3/8" reinforcement strips underneath the bottom. The cutting edge is 3/4". The teeth are much larger than a standard tooth bar and look like they could take a lot of abuse.
The welds are a little disappointing. The bottom and back is welded from the inside (good) but not from the outside it doesn't look like the weld goes all the way through. I may have some additional welding done on it from the outside just to make sure it's good to go before I tear up my concrete porch. (it's light concrete ~2" thick and I haven't seen any rebar in the spots what are worn and cracked)
Below is a picture on my tractor. If nothing else these things look mean!
I don't have problems with visibility like others mentioned. I can precisely place each tooth. Construction is plenty heavy for my use (not as heavy as some). The sides are 3/8". The bottom and back are 3/16" with 3/8" reinforcement strips underneath the bottom. The cutting edge is 3/4". The teeth are much larger than a standard tooth bar and look like they could take a lot of abuse.
The welds are a little disappointing. The bottom and back is welded from the inside (good) but not from the outside it doesn't look like the weld goes all the way through. I may have some additional welding done on it from the outside just to make sure it's good to go before I tear up my concrete porch. (it's light concrete ~2" thick and I haven't seen any rebar in the spots what are worn and cracked)
Below is a picture on my tractor. If nothing else these things look mean!
Attachments
Xfaxman
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2013
- Messages
- 13,282
- Location
- Guthrie, OK
- Tractor
- Toolcat 5610 G - Bobcat V417 - TORO+Loader
Good deal! It looks like it is sized right for your tractor. :thumbsup:
The teeth are bucket teeth for construction equipment. They come in different sizes and styles, so write down any brand or numbers on them, in case Spartan ever goes out of business and you need a replacement tooth.
The teeth are bucket teeth for construction equipment. They come in different sizes and styles, so write down any brand or numbers on them, in case Spartan ever goes out of business and you need a replacement tooth.
Mike from MI
Silver Member
gladehound
Is that the professional or industrial series.
Is that the professional or industrial series.
OP
gladehound
Veteran Member
I have the professional series. The industrial series is longer and heavier.
The professional series is for machines 5000 pounds or less. This worried me a little before I saw it. I talked to someone on the phone, told them my machines weight with loader and filled tires and they recommended the industrial because they didn't think I could hurt that one. I commented that if I did something stupid with the industrial one I could pop my curl cylinders because it's three times as long as the bucket my curl cylinders were designed for. They understood my concern and said that they didn't think I'd hurt the professional series as long as I wasn't ripping up sidewalks with rebar. After I had it in front of me I realized there was just about no way I would ever damage this thing other than popping a weld if it happened to have a bad weld. I think it is well matched to my machines size. Robust enough, but not unnecessarily heavy.
Incidentally I did a test for the curl cylinders that make me think I did get the right length. I dumped the bucked so it was straight down with the tip buried in the ground. I put the tractor in 4WD 1st gear at idle (0.4 mph). I let out the clutch and tried to curl the bucket. The tractor didn't move the curl cylinders didn't move. I was hitting the relief valve but the tractor couldn't extend the cylinders anymore than they were with the valve open. I was actually expecting the cylinders pull the bucket back more and extend the cylinders but it didn't happen. So this means that with this length bucket, I'm unlikely to ever hurt the loader even if I slowly run into a huge underground rock with the valve closed and bucket pointed straight down. In that scenario pressure in the cylinders is unlikely to go much over normal operating pressures before the wheels spin, so well below what would hurt anything. With a longer bucket I'll guessing the tractor could have pushed forward and extended the curl cylinders more and I would have needed to be very careful with it.
The professional series is for machines 5000 pounds or less. This worried me a little before I saw it. I talked to someone on the phone, told them my machines weight with loader and filled tires and they recommended the industrial because they didn't think I could hurt that one. I commented that if I did something stupid with the industrial one I could pop my curl cylinders because it's three times as long as the bucket my curl cylinders were designed for. They understood my concern and said that they didn't think I'd hurt the professional series as long as I wasn't ripping up sidewalks with rebar. After I had it in front of me I realized there was just about no way I would ever damage this thing other than popping a weld if it happened to have a bad weld. I think it is well matched to my machines size. Robust enough, but not unnecessarily heavy.
Incidentally I did a test for the curl cylinders that make me think I did get the right length. I dumped the bucked so it was straight down with the tip buried in the ground. I put the tractor in 4WD 1st gear at idle (0.4 mph). I let out the clutch and tried to curl the bucket. The tractor didn't move the curl cylinders didn't move. I was hitting the relief valve but the tractor couldn't extend the cylinders anymore than they were with the valve open. I was actually expecting the cylinders pull the bucket back more and extend the cylinders but it didn't happen. So this means that with this length bucket, I'm unlikely to ever hurt the loader even if I slowly run into a huge underground rock with the valve closed and bucket pointed straight down. In that scenario pressure in the cylinders is unlikely to go much over normal operating pressures before the wheels spin, so well below what would hurt anything. With a longer bucket I'll guessing the tractor could have pushed forward and extended the curl cylinders more and I would have needed to be very careful with it.
Don't have one of those but think these loader buckets / root-digger-uppers are nice for smaller stumps. Bigger ones may cause too much stress on the FL, hydraulics and the tractor. A backhoe makes stump removal / tree uprooting and other tasks much easier. Yes, they cost a lot in comparison but do make live easier if the work / chores warrant the investment.
dirt ditch
Veteran Member
I use a stump bucket/grapple on my skid steer instead of my 27 hp tractor. Digging under the large lateral roots of a stump and using the cutting teeth of the bucket to rip through them is the best way I have found to remove a stump and root ball. The ripping teeth on top of the bucket sides make a big difference. Stump buckets are relatively cheap and they work. They just don't work as well as a backhoe.
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View attachment 422262
VBROS
New member
What are the pros and cons of fluid in rear tires for ballast vs. wheel weights? I have a Kioti CK25 w/ frontloader. Works great but a little light on the rear end. Years ago on the farm we ran fluid in rear tires all year round.
Please reply here and/or to vaughanbros@frontier.com
Thanks.
Please reply here and/or to vaughanbros@frontier.com
Thanks.
