Snow Blade Cylinder Damaged Repair or Replace?

[grey goose]

I use a B2759 snow blade. Finishing up my work during the last snow event, I discovered the plow would no longer pivot from right to left. Backing up, I noticed a pool of hydro fluid under the blade. Climbed out to investigate and discovered the DA cylinder end cap had blown out. After pulling the cylinder, I found damage to the end cap and the cylinder. Also, one end of the snap ring was broken. [see photos]

Best guess, gravel got lodged between the cylinder mount and the end cap, and when the angle was reversed, it was driven into the end of the cylinder causing the damage seen in the pictures.

I've got little experience with hydraulics so, my question is: can this damage be repaired, or must I replace the cylinder?

Initial research shows a replacement Kubota cylinder costs $525. I'll explore after-market sources Monday, and will bring the cylinder to some local shops for estimates.

Has anyone else experienced this sort of failure? Is there anything I can do to prevent a repeat? Thinking of cutting a piece of pipe insulation or pool noodle to place on the cylinder rod to keep out debris. I'd welcome any other ideas or suggestions. TIA!

 

[fruitcakesa]

Any damage to the shaft itself?

 

[grey goose]

No, the shaft isn't scored and doesn't appear to have gotten bent.

 

[LouNY]

If it's needing a new end cap, piston, and seals, rebuild price would be getting close to or past new price.
I would be investigating replacement universal cylinders, browsing Surplus Center or Baileys web sites.
But that's just me and I have no problems modifying something less expensive to work.

 

[grey goose]

If it's needing a new end cap, piston, and seals, rebuild price would be getting close to or past new price.
I would be investigating replacement universal cylinders, browsing Surplus Center or Baileys web sites.
But that's just me and I have no problems modifying something less expensive to work.

Thanks for your insight. I had similar thoughts but, being a rookie at this, I wasn't sure if the mounting pins are 'standard' - SAE vs metric dimensions. The cylinder size seems standard at 6-1/2" x 2".

[EDIT] Shaft dia. is ~1". Mounting ends are 1-1/2" high with a 7/8" bore. Mounting pins are 7/8".

777-4 CYLINDER,2"x6 1/2"- REPLACES 71-636 - Kubota Parts Depot at MB Tractor

 

[muskieken]

I. Googled,,,, CYLINDER,2"x6 1/2"

Hydraulic Tie Rod Cylinder, 2-1/2" x 6", 1-1/8" Rod, 2500 PSI, New, Hydraulics
ASAP Item No. 119498
Price
$81.99
Google is your friend I don't know I think I would lose an 1/2 inch distance to save $450 I mean A hydraulic cylinders is hydraulic cylinder
just trying to help

 

[LD1]

Id for sure go aftermarket cylinder.

But I'd question what actually caused it. And if I was you and could swing it....get a larger diameter cylinder. It dont take much hydraulic power to angle the blade. The trick is HOLDING the blade. When plowing, the cylinder basically becomes the pump.....like on a floor jack or bottle jack. And the plow is the handle, which has a lot of leverage + the momentum/weight of the tractor pushing. This creates ALOT of pressure and cna break things.

A larger cylinder means more surface area the "handle" has to distribute the load over. Meaning less pressure and less likely to damage something or blow a hose or cylinder.

I HATE having a single DA cylinder on a plow for this very reason. A PAIR of SA cylinders and incorporate a $60 crossover valve solves this issue.

 

[LD1]

To add to the previous post....."assuming" alot here.

But assuming that the 59 in the model number means its a 59" blade.......and 6-1/2" stroke cylinder.....and "assuming" you have about 30* of angle left and right.....the plow has ~5:1 mechanical advantage over that cylinder.

With your cylinder size.....@ 2500psi.....you have ~5800# of pull force (retracting the cylinder).

That equates to ~1160# at the edge of the plow. So in "theory".....if you hit something with the edge of the plow that makes the cylinder try to extend.....with a force greater than 1160# (which isnt hard to do with any momentum at all)....you are over pressurizing the cylinder and have potential for failure just like you experienced.

Going to a 2-1/2" cylinder with a 1-1/8" rod like mentioned....gives you 9800# retract force. So you would have to hit something with more than 2000# to cause an overpressure situation.

Hope you followed all that. Please report back with whatever you decide to do

 

[Industrial Toys]

Similar thing happened to my plow blade. I found ones on clearance at our equiv. of HF. A friend had to machine the ends flat to fit the mounting though.

I have had very little luck having cylinders repaired, even taking them to the oldest most experienced (and expensive) guy around. And the dirty looks you get when you bring them back, like its your fault.

 

[PILOON]

I'm too far from U but here is my experience.
I had a FEL lift cylinder that had a serious scoring on the shaft.
It caused much leaking so I took it to a local hydraulic guy.
Well 3 days later he called and said all ready.
Total cost was $160. (including a new hose that I had left connected)

He machined a new shaft and installed all new seals and packings.

OK, a few years back but that's just to provide some comparison.
Shop around!

Also most snow blade cylinders are quite standard and generally paired one ways.
Look up some snow plow sites or try EBay and for sure you'll find replacements at a very attractive price.
I recall that basically only 2 sizes are used on plows and all are interchangeable.