Snow Snow Blower Vs FEL Mounted Snow Plow

[JWR]

Gravel is a pain with a blower ... but not that bad. THE key is angle. Adjust the angle that the lower edge of the blower makes with the ground until it is just slightly upward. So long as you get it adjusted to a slightly upward angle, there will be very little gravel caught up and thrown. The underside of the blower then acts to smooth out the gravel sliding over it rather than throwing it out the chute.

 

[majorwager]

JWR,
Your angle comment is very appropriate but there are times where changing angle multiple times in the length of drivway due to blower riding too high on older packed snow under the fresh snowfall Is necessary. The hydraulic toplink solves this issus quickly and effortlessly.

 

[JWR]

JWR,
Your angle comment is very appropriate but there are times where changing angle multiple times in the length of drivway due to blower riding too high on older packed snow under the fresh snowfall Is necessary. The hydraulic toplink solves this issus quickly and effortlessly.

Agree. The hydraulic top link is one of the most useful accessories I've ever bought. I use it on a larger farm tractor. One problem is expense, of course. Another is that many using these smaller Kubotas have no RCVs/remotes and no reasonably priced or even practical way to add things like a hydraulic top link.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Unless frozen, gravel is definitely a problem for both a blower and a FEL plow. The plow leaves it in piles along with the snow and usually can be raked back into place. The blower spreads it out over a wide area making it difficult to recover. Gravel also does a fair amount of damage to the blower impeller housing.



Like several posters above, I find the hydraulic top link to be the best tool to minimize gravel pickup with the blower. Extending and retracting the top link causes the blower to "rock" back and forth on it's shoes thus raising and lowering the cutting edge without lifting the blower off the ground. I usually run with my hand on the valve handle and tilt the blower back as soon as I hear gravel in the discharge chute.

 

[sixdogs]

You can easily put gravel back where it belongs with a leaf blower. It works great if you do before the grass grows.

 

[JWR]

Your's is an effective technique of course. I view the key factor, however, is the angle of the cutting edge, not so much raising it off the ground. Of course a little raising helps but to me the big thing is "Whether it tends to dig into the gravel and other surface humps or tends to ride over them." The edge will tend to rise over (rather than to dig in) if the angle is slightly upward.

 

[buickanddeere]

I've been moving snow for many years here in northeast PA. I clear 1.25 miles of private gravel road and several driveways. I've had rear mount snowblowers and FEL plows on all of my Kubotas but do most of the work with the FEL plow. I can move 5 times as much snow in half the time than I can with the blower. There are some seasons where the blower isn't used at all and I just keep it mounted for ballast. The blower is used mostly in deep snow when the banks get too high or in tight quarters where places to pile snow are limited.

Since FEL plows are a bit cheaper, have fewer moving parts and do a better job on unpaved surfaces, I'm curious why blowers seem to be so popular here. I'd appreciate comments as to your preference and why.

Snowblowers are used where there are real winters with appreciable snowfall. If we just ploughed , we would run out of room to push the snow. Plus the snow drifts act as "snow fences" and make the drifting back in worse.
A snowblower is required to get rid of the snow away from the roadway.

 

[NEPA guy]

I'm in North East PA. I have a 1/2 mile paved driveway on a fairly steep hill. I find that with the 2650, it's not strong/heavy enough to push the snow with the blade when it gets deep or real wet. Sometimes, the back end of the tractor just slides to the left or right. I leave the backhoe on all the time and have the blade and blower to swap back and forth. I've had to get a neighbor of mine plow the road with his truck twice this year and I use the tractor to clean up after he's gone. It also takes me close to 2 hours from start to finish to clear the road because i have to make smaller and more passes. I was debating trading up to a bigger tractor or just getting a blade for my truck and use the 2650 as backup in case my truck setup fails.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I'm in North East PA. I have a 1/2 mile paved driveway on a fairly steep hill. I find that with the 2650, it's not strong/heavy enough to push the snow with the blade when it gets deep or real wet. Sometimes, the back end of the tractor just slides to the left or right. I leave the backhoe on all the time and have the blade and blower to swap back and forth. I've had to get a neighbor of mine plow the road with his truck twice this year and I use the tractor to clean up after he's gone. It also takes me close to 2 hours from start to finish to clear the road because i have to make smaller and more passes. I was debating trading up to a bigger tractor or just getting a blade for my truck and use the 2650 as backup in case my truck setup fails.

FWIW, I have both a FEL plow for my L6060 and a pickup with plow. I can clear 1.25 miles of private road and several 300'+ driveways in 25% less time using the FEL plow. It is far more maneuverable and much easier to see what I'm doing. I do miss the heated cab of the pickup though since the tractor is an open station model.

There is no question that lighter tractors slip and slide pushing heavy snow. I had that problem with my old B7100. Chains do help if you aren't already using them. I find the L6060 with chains is heavy enough to handle the deep stuff without sliding around.

 

[NEPA guy]

I haven't tried the chains yet, I bought a set but havent had the time to learn how to adjust them and put them on. I'll take the time ext season if I decide not to trade up. Good advice. Thanks.