Quebecguy
Gold Member
Until your gravel driveway is solidly frozen, angle your blower using the top link of the 3 points such that it won't dig in and start blowing gravel instead of snow.
Snow Snow clearing newbie - Recommended steps
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Cycledude
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Since your driveway is gravel make sure you have some spare shear pins in stock
CH4Ohio
Veteran Member
First thing you'll learn is that it's VITAL that the discharge chute is pointed downwind. You'll have to adjust that as your direction and conditions change. If you get caught in the "snow-cloud" from the discharge blowing back at you, you become an instant snowman!
As mentioned above, tilt the leading edge up so it doesn't dig into your gravel. Let it ride back on the shoes a little.
I run mowers, tillers, and snowblowers at WOT. No reason not to. Your blower doesn't have to rotate at EXACTLY 540 rpm and, in this case, faster is better.
I've never had my tractor-mounted snowblower jam up with snow or ice.
Look at your PTO angle when yours is raised all the way up. If it's extreme, don't raise it that high while it's running. Every setup is a little different. As said above, you can just pick it up so it's not dragging sideways on the turns without raising it all the way. I don't disengage mine when I turn around.
Don't point the discharge at anything like a car or person -- not even as a joke. You won't believe how much gravel and junk will get picked up (regardless of how careful you are) and you can easily break glass, etc.
Otherwise, just have fun with your new snow machine!
As mentioned above, tilt the leading edge up so it doesn't dig into your gravel. Let it ride back on the shoes a little.
I run mowers, tillers, and snowblowers at WOT. No reason not to. Your blower doesn't have to rotate at EXACTLY 540 rpm and, in this case, faster is better.
I've never had my tractor-mounted snowblower jam up with snow or ice.
Look at your PTO angle when yours is raised all the way up. If it's extreme, don't raise it that high while it's running. Every setup is a little different. As said above, you can just pick it up so it's not dragging sideways on the turns without raising it all the way. I don't disengage mine when I turn around.
Don't point the discharge at anything like a car or person -- not even as a joke. You won't believe how much gravel and junk will get picked up (regardless of how careful you are) and you can easily break glass, etc.
Otherwise, just have fun with your new snow machine!
With a gravel driveway I would pack the snow in the first few storms. You dont want to blow half your driveway through your snowblower. If you cant do this then I would say get a plow.
CH4Ohio
Veteran Member
A snowplow will move a lot of gravel too! Either way you need to watch your angle-of-attack and overall conditions.
Every spring I have to spend a few hours with a box blade or grader blade pulling gravel back into the drive where it belongs. That's just part of the game.
Also, when you clear the mouth of your driveway make sure that the snow goes on the downward side of the plow trucks.
There's nothing worse than getting it all cleared out, only to have the plow wing the bankings back and have to do it all over again.
Especially when using an old walk behind JD blower...
There's nothing worse than getting it all cleared out, only to have the plow wing the bankings back and have to do it all over again.
Especially when using an old walk behind JD blower...
Here is some more snowblowing advice from a front mount blower user, if applicable to a pull behind type;
First, never disengage the pto unless, or until, the chute is clear of all snow. Disengaging the pto with a chute full of snow (especially wet heavy snow) is a great way to instantly end up with a plugged chute when you re-engage the pto.
Second, when the job is finished, be sure to run the blower until all snow is cleared from all moving parts. Then move / rotate the chute full range stop to stop to be sure there is not snow that can freeze and block its movement before the next startup.
Second, contrary to what others have said about running the engine speed for the rated pto rpm, With a gravel driveway, Once you get the hang of your equipment's operation (i.e. how slow you can run the engine (pto) without plugging the chute in various snow conditions), you may find your driveway and yard restoration work next spring to be easier if you slow the pto speed and try to not throw and spread the snow (including gravel) quite so far and wide. I have a front blower with an adjustable deflector on the chute, but I also vary engine speed in order to minimize the areas that I need to clean up each spring. Throw it as far as you need to, get the snow out of the way so you don't get snow banks that cause extra drifting, but remember that you may be the one who has to clean up any extra mess in the spring.
Third, When spring comes and it is time to move the gravel back into the driveway. After the box blade, a power rubber paddle broom
does a great job to really clean things up. Works best (easiest) to get it done before the grass starts growing in the spring.
First, never disengage the pto unless, or until, the chute is clear of all snow. Disengaging the pto with a chute full of snow (especially wet heavy snow) is a great way to instantly end up with a plugged chute when you re-engage the pto.
Second, when the job is finished, be sure to run the blower until all snow is cleared from all moving parts. Then move / rotate the chute full range stop to stop to be sure there is not snow that can freeze and block its movement before the next startup.
Second, contrary to what others have said about running the engine speed for the rated pto rpm, With a gravel driveway, Once you get the hang of your equipment's operation (i.e. how slow you can run the engine (pto) without plugging the chute in various snow conditions), you may find your driveway and yard restoration work next spring to be easier if you slow the pto speed and try to not throw and spread the snow (including gravel) quite so far and wide. I have a front blower with an adjustable deflector on the chute, but I also vary engine speed in order to minimize the areas that I need to clean up each spring. Throw it as far as you need to, get the snow out of the way so you don't get snow banks that cause extra drifting, but remember that you may be the one who has to clean up any extra mess in the spring.
Third, When spring comes and it is time to move the gravel back into the driveway. After the box blade, a power rubber paddle broom
does a great job to really clean things up. Works best (easiest) to get it done before the grass starts growing in the spring.
CalG
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If you end up needing to "reblow" drifts or consolidated snow, be ready to move slowly, stay UNDER the snow and not ride up and over (tilt), and revisit every rock and stick previously encountered.
As mentioned, for the first couple of clearings each season, have extra shear bolts on hand!
As mentioned, for the first couple of clearings each season, have extra shear bolts on hand!
sd455dan
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I think that depends on the inverted blower. My Wifo is very quiet, Blowers with open non oil submerged boxes seem to be louder although Both of my rotary brush cutter mower boxes have been loud.
Maybe the Brand of the gearbox, The Comer on the Wifo is nice and quiet.
One pretty obvious suggestion I have is to run up the blower speed to clear out whatever will exit the blower before shut down for the day, and also if parked outside I make sure the blower is not at the lowest point in case of rain or wet snow and a hard freeze where a puddle could form.
Here is a Kioti with a pull behind wifo
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TractorTYMe
Veteran Member
Yeah I'd wait using blower until you have a solid snow/ice surface. Otherwise its just gonna be an inaccurate gravel shotgun. Many that uses the bucket gets them shoes you put on to prevent it from digging into the gravel (Can't remember the name). Else inverted blowers are great instruments, here is a video of me with 18inches of snow last year.
