Snow Attachments Snow Plow Float, Chain, or Rigid

[john4153]

I am adapting a Meyer ST7.5 to the quick attach of my Case DX40. As you all probably know, in the usual truck attachment of that plow, the plow pivots at the truck attachment point and uses a chain for lifting the blade.

Almost every quick attachment plow for FEL's I have seen uses a rigid attachment to the quick attach plate(s). I assume one then plows with the loader in the float position, but I am not sure of that. At this point, since I haven't cut or welded anything yet, I can weld the A-frame of the plow to the quick attach plate or attach it using a clevis arrangement so it pivots.

Any opinions?
Is being able to apply down force on the plow an advantage?
Is plowing normally done with the FEL in float?

Regards, John

 

[amigauser]

I have seen both types. Local CT Craigslist had a guy selling q/a plates made up like the plow mount on old fisher or similar plows so the blade would float like on a truck with chain.

I purchased a used plow that had pin mounts for a fel, I cut them off and welded a plate solid. This is my second season with it and it works well on my tar driveway. Having downforce works well with ice Etc. I use both float and manual depending on the conditions or surface. Like when pushing/piling snow on a gravel area.

 

[Katahdin]

I've adapted my Boss plow which allows me to do both, there is no chain and the float is hydraulically controlled. One thing I've noticed playing around with the different downward angles is use too much downward force against a heavy load and will just cause the plow to trip forward. Do the same thing against soft gravel and it'll rip it up. I guess if I had my choice between one or the other I'd vote go with the plow float.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I'm working on this myself adapting an eight foot Fisher plow to fit my JD 533 loader. My present plan is to weld the Fisher push beam with it's latch pins to my adapter plate level with the attachment pins on the other side of the plate. Then I can set the loader close to the height of the push plates of the F250 it came off of and it should work right. This will allow the plow to trip up when it hits a fixed object and keep the ends of the loader arms a safe distance above the road. I'm going to try just the chain at first but if that doesn't cut clean I might try a top link from plate to plow to force the plow forward from where the trip springs have it ride.
Trial and error. Others who have finished their own project please chime in and save us a few trials.

 

[Morning Wood]

I welded up a mount for a 6' Meyer on my 1720 ford. I have an aftermarket quick attach setup and I can't run the loader in float or the plow a frame will drag in the ground. I used the plow
A frame and the a frame attaches to the frame I made. I have the plow setup so that when I tilt the rams (bucket tilt) it uses a chain to lift the plow. I can also just lift the loader arms. I have a problem though with the plow digging in on the
leading edge if angled. If I don't get the a frame very low to the ground the plow will dig into the ground. Not sure why this is, but probably lack of suspension on the tractor and the plow is so far away from the tractor wheels so the plow is hitting contours before the tractor. Anyway, if I get the a frame real low it works ok. It is a float mode plow setup. If I need to scrape with down pressure I use the bucket or I put the plow straight and tilt the plow down like I'm dumping and bucket. Works ok, not great. Plow will trip before great scraping happens.

 

[zzvyb6]

I chose to not use the loader frame, instead using just two drop beams from the tractor frame to the two plow A frame pivots. I use the loader View attachment 296689up/down for plow up/down and the bucket curl is swing left/right. This puts the plow as close to the front wheels as much as possible. The two attachment points are the same height as a truck mount would be. A short cylinder is all I had to scrounge to complete the deal.

No steering issues with this setup. I have float from the loader valve AND power down for ice breaking (especially good when backing up).

For me, Its basically two bolts/pins and a cylinder pin with a clip. 4 hose connections and I'm on the road.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I welded up a mount for a 6' Meyer on my 1720 ford. I have an aftermarket quick attach setup and I can't run the loader in float or the plow a frame will drag in the ground. I used the plow
A frame and the a frame attaches to the frame I made. I have the plow setup so that when I tilt the rams (bucket tilt) it uses a chain to lift the plow. I can also just lift the loader arms. I have a problem though with the plow digging in on the
leading edge if angled. If I don't get the a frame very low to the ground the plow will dig into the ground. Not sure why this is, but probably lack of suspension on the tractor and the plow is so far away from the tractor wheels so the plow is hitting contours before the tractor. Anyway, if I get the a frame real low it works ok. It is a float mode plow setup. If I need to scrape with down pressure I use the bucket or I put the plow straight and tilt the plow down like I'm dumping and bucket. Works ok, not great. Plow will trip before great scraping happens.

Good info there. I have a few places where the grade of the road changes faster then the loader arms can float adjust to the grade. Trouble is they are always at the top of a hill so if your on the downward pass you leave extra snow just where a car doesn't need it. Hopefully with the new set up I'm building I can get enough control to cut these spots clean even if I have to force the blade to do it by changing some angle as I approach those spots.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

I have noticed using my FEL plowing that the front tires will come off the ground occasionally when load increases.
Even when in the float position the pivot point is at the back of the loader up high and reaction time to float is slow.
Adding a rigid plow to the front of the loader will increase the weight and amount of enegry required to lift the unit when in the float position.
I would pivot the plow at the front of the loader and use a chain float.
The action should be smoother and quicker.
Just my opinion

 

[vtsnowedin]

I chose to not use the loader frame, instead using just two drop beams from the tractor frame to the two plow A frame pivots. I use the loader View attachment 296689up/down for plow up/down and the bucket curl is swing left/right. This puts the plow as close to the front wheels as much as possible. The two attachment points are the same height as a truck mount would be. A short cylinder is all I had to scrounge to complete the deal.

No steering issues with this setup. I have float from the loader valve AND power down for ice breaking (especially good when backing up).

For me, Its basically two bolts/pins and a cylinder pin with a clip. 4 hose connections and I'm on the road.

Do you ever have to put the loader back on to push banks back? How long would the switch take ? Nice stronge looking setup you have there.

 

[Morning Wood]

It has been hashed over a bunch here. If you put the FEL in float and load the plow up you will drive your front tires off the ground. Best bet is to set up the plow to float on its own and just adjust your FEL height when you have to.

 

[john4153]

It has been hashed over a bunch here. If you put the FEL in float and load the plow up you will drive your front tires off the ground. Best bet is to set up the plow to float on its own and just adjust your FEL height when you have to.

That is a key observation I was not aware of and is mentioned by a couple of you. Since my Q/A plate won't be here until the end of the week, I have a little time to experiment with my bucket. It would surely sway my decision toward attaching the A-frame to the Q/A plate so it can flex/float.

Before posting, I searched on FEL float, but didn't see anything about its effect on the front wheels.

John

 

[zzvyb6]

Do you ever have to put the loader back on to push banks back? How long would the switch take ? Nice stronge looking setup you have there.

I push banks back (rarely necessary) by pushing them straight back as far as I need to. That means I'm 90 degrees to the roadway. If I'm in high gear with fast ground speed when plowing normally, the snow flies off this plow pretty far, so there is not a lot of bank that builds up. I have weighted rear tires and extra iron weights on the front end. I put some extra springs on this setup to keep the plow from tripping easily. Since I usually run with the plow angle at 30 --> 45 degrees (maxed out), I get a really smooth driveway and my main road looks pretty good, too. It will only trip if I hit a seam in the concrete just right with the plow straight ahead. Mushroom skid shoes are set about 1/2" down from the blade. The loader is a Quick Attach mount. Pull 3 pins, pull 4 hoses off and back out. Go pick up the loader. Its about a 5 minute job to switch. Putting the plow back on takes longer because I have to line up the front lift cylinder rod end with the swivel on the A-frame. That's iterative without some help. So, that takes about 6 minutes.

 

[chopped]

Just a suggestion, But if possible try to get the plow to mount as close to the plate as possible.Maybe even under the QA plate itself.It make a huge difference with it not out so far.

 

[vtsnowedin]

ZZVYB6 I might have to push back every third storm or so depending on the snow type and wind. I have places that can drift in bank top to bank top over night if conditions are right and the best defense is to keep the banks pushed back and low so the wind sweeps over and down to the road surface then over the other bank without dropping it's snow load. I don't know if the plow on the loader will be more useful then the bucket. Being wider 9+ ft with the wings vs. 73 " for the bucket it can push more with each push but it cant pick up a bucket full and carry it to a pile. I'll know better in a few storms.

 

[john4153]

Getting the blade as close to the Q/A plate as possible is one of my goals. I was considering anchoring the cylinders used for angling behind the plate. But, if the A-frame floats on the plate, I won't be able to do that...everything is a trade off.

John

 

[vtsnowedin]

Getting the blade as close to the Q/A plate as possible is one of my goals. I was considering anchoring the cylinders used for angling behind the plate. But, if the A-frame floats on the plate, I won't be able to do that...everything is a trade off.

John

I can picture how you could rig it to be pinned behind the loader arm ends and still be able to pivot up and down freely. It would require a slot to allow the A frame to move up and down and some trailing arms back to hold the plow push beam.

 

[nybirdman]

Mine pivots and has a chain,I do not float the FEL.Works well but is quite a ways out.

 

[chopped]

This is how I did mine without disturbing the original bracket and holes.There was another poster on here who built it under but still pinned on the original brackets. Hope this helps.I also added a pipe to the top with a hook to accept the chain so it floats .

 

[john4153]

@chopped
How did you attach the hydraulic cylinder?

For what I need to do, I am thinking of going back to the manual, at least for this Winter. The plow I am using has an E60 pump and both cylinders are functional.

John

 

[chopped]

Oh had not thought of that. well of cource the top cylinder (to light) hasnt been used. The two to angle it are connected to some 1/4 hose and go to the rear where I put in a valve.So it still will angle.
FYI I originally wanted to tie them into the 'curcle' chlinder quick connects and use the bucket curle function to angle it.But was told by the mechanic at the shop that it wouldnt work. And he was right, That was before I knew about the ''re-gen'' circuit in the loader valve that some tractors have.So if you should use that route be sure to find out if the tractor loader has a 're-gen' circuit .(there is a good thread here about it somewhere).