Snow Attachments SNOW PLOW RESTORATION

[NorthernMainer]

Hi Walt,
I wish I could have seen this post sooner as could have probably helped you out as we fabricate the aftermarket adaptors to hook right into a Fisher plow with a JD or Kabota with QD on the FEL. Hope you get it straighten out as I can see you are in the "learning curve" about plow angles and altitudes so they ride correctly ................. not knowing how much your plow weight is I have no idea the make but can see it is ALOT lighter than a Fisher? I will post a picture of one of ours on a JD.
Good Luck with your project . We have seen dozens of ways people have tryed to set up plows on tractors; and they all work to some extent; but most of them dont work correctly. When Fishers engineering dept designed the plows and attachments to hook them to a pickups, most of the clues are there; to have them work correctly on a tractor. I will tell you this much about it all, the curl clyinders need to be locked with your "aframe" in the level position? Pushing downwards or upwards is going to cause you problems.
E

 

[WALT]

This winter has dropped around 50+ inches of snow.
The plow repair has held up without any further mishaps. As the driveway has been frozen, the plow works as designed, I have adjusted my speed to minimize any further problems. When the edge catches, I stop and curl the plow "up" to continue moving snow instead of gravel.
I see that you run chains on the front tires. The 7' plow will push the front tires around when it fills with snow.
Some of the problems with this set-up is the distance that the plow extends from the loader Q/A point. It causes negative leverage that moves the front end around. But it is not enough to cause me to find another way. I just adjust to the conditions found.

While pushing back the snow banks, I had the tractor front go over the edge due to the 2" under ice layer on the drive, 2nd time this year at the same spot, think I would have learned from the first time. I was able to chain and pull it back with my truck. I have put off buying chains for the L-39, but 2x proves it's time for the purchase. Its a bad feeling sliding over the bank when it happens. No damage to the tractor, but gravity can't be outsmarted. In the 5 years I've lived here, this is the worst icing that I've encountered.

Numerous winter rains & melting snow seem to instantly ice the gravel driveway. That comes with a 400'+ driveway in New England. It is now raining, with 2" predicted. I have been using the boxblade with the scarafiers down on my BX 2200 to break up the ice. I have rear V-bar chains that work well on the BX 2200.
I don't know the make of the plow, beyond "dump" brand. It's heavy enough to make me struggle when removing it from the plow frame.

WALT

 

[ray66v]

Have you considered adding casters?
I built one of these and added the casters to keep
the blade above the gravel. It has worked great.

 

[jimmysisson]

Walt you could save some $$ and get front chains only, old truck chains might fit just fine. That might help with the sliding around too.
Jim

 

[steviep]

Northernmaine, I made one of those setup but it had a week link my welding. Contact me I would like to talk to you about making one for me, I already have a 7' fisher plow.

 

[bandit67]

I'm trying to decide if I should go this route. I have a line on an old Jeep plow, which should be perfect for a small compact, that I can get for $300-$350. I don't have a welder and don't know how to weld, but maybe this is my chance to get one and learn. I figure with materials and all, I could be into this setup for $700 or less.

Or, I order a manual angle rear blade when I order the tractor for $700-$750, which seems a bit steep. I'd rather have the FEL mounted hydraulic snow plow, and it seems like a no-brainer for the same or less money. Just wonder how much $$ I'll waste 'learning' welding skills, and possibly wasting some steel during the learning curve.

 

[ray66v]

Just wonder how much $$ I'll waste 'learning' welding skills, and possibly wasting some steel during the learning curve.

Welding is not too difficult a skill to develop a basic level of competence.
However, you really need at least a mentor to be able to progress rapidly.
The other problem is, this is not a beginner welding project. You need to start out with some simple, less potentially dangerous in the event of failure, projects first.
There is also a degree of engineering involved with a project like this.
If you think your up to it, go for it.
I made my plow out of 2 old Bolens 42" snow plows, they can be had for around $30 each, and then add a surplus hydraulic cylinder, and you could be way under $700.

 

[bandit67]

I have a friend that welds, and he took a look at his loader setup on his JD770, and said he doesn't have the tools it would take to cut & drill some of the 1/4" thick steel. Figures it'd cost at least a couple hundred to pick up some of the necessary tools, etc.

So it's probably a bit too much of a 'project' for me to take on. The engineering part isn't that daunting, I just don't have the tools necessary to do the job the way I'd want to, and apparently, neither does he.

 

[NorthernMainer]

Walt,
To get back onto the plow thing; just for kicks I had my plow off today and grabed a scale I have here to weigh Black Bears that goes up to 500lbs and it looks to me like the Fisher Plow weight is 445lbs! So that will give you some idea to compare yours . They are quite a bit beefier than most of the others and will take a terrific amount of abuse. When the plow is setting on the ground there shouldnt be any weight on the loader arms at all. And the skiing effect you are getting has to be from light downpresures from the FEL. Remember I am lifting the plow with a chain the same as the pickup system.
My curl arms are locked and I then use those two spots on the distibution block to tap into for my lower cylinders that angle the plow. I really have no idea about your set up you have there but can share with you that until the aframe on your plow is level it will never plow correctly. Once you can get that part spot on then we could move on to figuring out why you are getting the front end pushed all over the place. I hope some of this helps and hope you get straighten out . As you can see I only run chains on the front as my yards are all fairly level and I just dont need rears but if I had real steep ground I would sure get some!
E

 

[shinnlinger]

HI,

What did you coat your blade with? Does it make it slick? I made a wing blade out of an old meyer, but wet stuff does stick and I am thinking of coating it.