Snow plow size and chain all 4 wheels on a TC33D?

[John_Mc]

I have a 2001 TC33D that is mostly used for small scale forestry/logging work. In the winter, it often does snow removal work. I used the loader and box blade for years (our driveway which we share with a neighbor and short section of road which the town does not maintain totals a little over 1/3 mile.That would be a pain in the neck to use the loader or rear snow blower on, but my neighbor does a lot of the snowplowing with a plow mounted on his 47 HP JD).

A couple of years ago, I picked up a used Puma 64" 3 Pt Hitch snowblower in good condition for $500. A bit small for my tractor, but I couldn't pass up such a deal. It's been working well for areas that are tough to plow, or when we get a heavier snowfall or need to knock back the snow banks.

I run Ofa Eko 8 studded chains (a.k.a. "Euro Style" chains) on my rear tires. With filled rear tires, belly pan and FOPS/Limb Risers and just the loader mounted, I estimate I'm up around 4000#, maybe a bit more. The snowblower adds another 400# or so.

I've been debating adding a snow plow to the SSQA on my Woods 2012 loader. I already have an extra hydraulic circuit run up front to operate the grapple, so hydraulic angle control would be simple.

A few questions:

1) Can I safely run chains on all four tires on a TC33D? I could swear I heard/read somewhere that this should not be done on this tractor - something about more stress on the drive train than the front is designed for, but can't find any reference to it now. If the answer to this is "it's a bad idea", I'll drop the whole snowplow idea, since plowing is just not manageable without front chains on my driveway.

2) If it's OK to chain all 4 wheels, any recommendations for good chains for the front wheels? If I recall, the tires are 25x8.5-14, but I'll have to verify that. I think I remember someone saying that some ATV chains fit these tires?

3) What width plow blade would someone recommend on the TC33D? The width at my rear tires is about 63". I'm thinking a 6 ft plow will be to tight, once it is angled. 7 ft may be more than I can handle. Any thoughts?

4) Are there concerns about the side load put on a loader frame by plowing with an angled blade?

 

[wolfie1959]

I wouldn't hesitate to put an 8 foot blade on it. When fully angled it won be much over 7 foot anyway and you want it wider than the machine.

I'd love to see a photo of your tractor. I want to set mine up like that for working in the woods.

 

[spitter]

No way on the side load on a 8 ft. plow . Any sudden stops will tear that loader up . I have a snow pusher I made from a 8' plow home made very HD and I use it with kid gloves . When I built it I did a lot of research on the subject and the conensious was only put them on more substiantial loaders 50 HP and up . I don't know where Monkoton is in Vermont but if its in the green mts. I,m shure you get some serious snow. Be safe pusher on FEL plow on frame . I'm surprised you didn't get a 100 different answers on chains . Plenty have done it with no problems . Others have had various problems with front end that's a crap shoot. Hit 1 tree and you bent a $ 6'000 loader. Your neighbor probably has a 400 or 400cx loader much more stout than yours . Let him ruin his. :drink:

 

[John_Mc]

I wouldn't hesitate to put an 8 foot blade on it. When fully angled it won be much over 7 foot anyway and you want it wider than the machine.

No way on the side load on a 8 ft. plow . Any sudden stops will tear that loader up . I have a snow pusher I made from a 8' plow home made very HD and I use it with kid gloves . When I built it I did a lot of research on the subject and the conensious was only put them on more substiantial loaders 50 HP and up . I don't know where Monkoton is in Vermont but if its in the green mts. I,m shure you get some serious snow. Be safe pusher on FEL plow on frame... Hit 1 tree and you bent a $ 6'000 loader. Your neighbor probably has a 400 or 400cx loader much more stout than yours . Let him ruin his. :drink:

I'm not going to go to 8 feet. 6 feet would be just a hair 62" when the plow is angled 30˚: too short for effectively plowing snow on a 63" wide tractor. A 7 ft blade (84") would end up just a little over 6' wide when angled. I'd have 5" overhang on each side. Maybe not ideal, but that's as far as I would consider pushing this.

The really heavy snow I'll do with the snowblower (or let my neighbor handle it). The plow would be when I just wanted to do a quick pass after a lighter snow, so my neighbor doesn't get stuck doing it all the time. BTW, he's been doing it for about 15 years with the same tractor and loader mounted plow without a any damage to the loader.

I'm surprised you didn't get a 100 different answers on chains . Plenty have done it with no problems . Others have had various problems with front end that's a crap shoot.

Even the manufacturer won't answer the question. I asked, and they said "check with your local dealer". My response was that my local dealer was one of those who told me years ago that they "weren't sure chains on all 4 years were a good idea on this tractor." Since they really weren't sure whether it was an issue or not, I'm asking for the manufacturers official spec/recommendation, not my local dealer's personal opinion. They still insisted I speak to the dealer.

 

[zzvyb6]

I'm not going to go to 8 feet. 6 feet would be just a hair 62" when the plow is angled 30˚: too short for effectively plowing snow on a 63" wide tractor. A 7 ft blade (84") would end up just a little over 7' wide when angled. I'd have 5" overhang on each side. Maybe not ideal, but that's as far as I would consider pushing this.
.

Check your math. My 8' Western plow is about 68" wide when angled at ~45 degrees. 30 degree angle gives you an 83" swath. Chains on rear drive wheels only because you may not have good steering control or clearance when turning at full lock. If you don't have good sidebite with the high angled plow use left / right rear brakes to get directional control. I use weight for traction, not chains. Don't want to tear up the concrete.

The trouble with loader plows is the long plow base which makes it difficult to keep the tractor going straight.

 

[DK35vince]

I've been running chains on all 4, and a 9' power angle snow plow on my DK 35 loader for years. No problems.
I would want at least a 7' on your 33.

 

[John_Mc]

Check your math. My 8' Western plow is about 68" wide when angled at ~45 degrees. 30 degree angle gives you an 83" swath.

My math was correct. The error was in my typing. A 7' plow when angled 30˚ would be a hair over 6'. I had originally typed 7', which makes no sense - you can't angle a plow without narrowing the width of the cut. I've corrected the original post.

 

[John_Mc]

I've been running chains on all 4, and a 9' power angle snow plow on my DK 35 loader for years. No problems.
I would want at least a 7' on your 33.

Thanks for the info, but the Kioti DK35 is a different drive train than the NH TC 33D. I know there are SOME tractors which can handle chains on all four tires. I also know there are some tractors for which the manufacturer specifically states NOT to run chains on all 4 tires (except in very loose traction). What I don't know is whether the TC33D is one of them.

 

[wolfie1959]

I didn't realize you were in Vermont. It's going to be a challenge in deep snow no mater what size blade you use. Being out in front of the bucket there is going to be a lot of leverage trying to push the back of the tractor around. 1/3 of a mile is going to be a lot to do with a tractor. I would recommend a truck with an 8 foot plow with at least 800 pounds of weight in the back. Having heat would also be a big plus. You can do it with the tractor but it will take longer. When the snow is deep you will probably have to take small bites and push it iff to the sides. It will be fun though. I use my truck and just use the tractor and loader to push back and stack the snow banks.

I really don't know about the chains.. like you said some recommend them on the front and some say never use them on the front.. I have no idea what New Holland would recommend. They are definitely great on the back though.

 

[RickB]

The hydro pedal and brakes are both on the right side. This all but eliminates the possibility of using the brakes to assist steering while in motion. I don’t recommend chains on the front (usually) due to driveline durability concerns, but in this instance, and considering you ARE chaining the rears, I don’t think you have much choice.