Snow snow removal

   / snow removal #11  
Quick comeback...thanks peter. Let me ask you...in your experience using the blade is it possible to pull the snow forward successfully just 2" over the driveway.

I'd rather pull with the blade angled to the right ...I just don't want to dig up my gravel.

edit I have an old tire I was going to sawzall and cobble on some 2" boots on each side of the blade.

Sure it's possible to pull the snow forward. It's just a real pain to deal with the hardened ridges the tire tracks leave. They tend to turn to ice.

I've used loader mound plows, frame mount plows, blowers, rear blades, and box blades over the 40 plus years I've moved snow in Conn and Mass.

While in some areas of Conn and Mass we may not have gotten much snow in the last couple of years, there have been many times when we have had well over 24 inches of heavy wet snow. (and in the Blizzard of 78, well over 7 feet) A bucket works great to move that and allows you to pile it high (on a decent size tractor you can keep pushing up the pile and make piles over 20 feet high with ease). The biggest problem with using a FEL is bucket size and the angle you keep the bucket at. Small buckets don't work very well as they tend to fill quickly and dump snow over the top and around the sides. A loader mounted plow works better than a frame mounted plow in my opinion as you can also push the snow up into high piles and not run the risk of getting the plow hung up on piles of snow (the Jeep syndrome).
Have fun, I love plowing snow. Started doing it to make money on a Ford 8N to make money in 1960 at age 10. Still have the same Dearborn plow which ahs been lengthened 2 feet and is now used on my TN and Ford 2120. Maybe someday I even add hydraulic rotation :D

Andy
 
   / snow removal #12  
I cut a 3" pvc pipe length wise and slide it over the cutting edge of my six foot woods 3pt rear blade. This saves the gravel work come spring. I back up or drive forward but it makes for a neater job backing up but my neck gets sore.
 
   / snow removal #13  
I like the Pvc idea I used a steel one for mine does the plastic wear fast??
 
   / snow removal #14  
Well fry my hide bx24d that's pretty clever...

...and it stays on the blade with no fasteners? Well that's what I'm going to do then...I can't tell you how grateful I am to learn that fix. thanks again.
 
   / snow removal #15  
I cut a 3" pvc pipe length wise and slide it over the cutting edge of my six foot woods 3pt rear blade. This saves the gravel work come spring. I back up or drive forward but it makes for a neater job backing up but my neck gets sore.

You haven't had any problems w/ pvc cracking in the cold weather?

I remember my son going through multiple pvc hockey nets that would crack easily in the cold but maybe it wasn't the same grade.
 
   / snow removal #16  
Well fry my hide bx24d that's pretty clever...

...and it stays on the blade with no fasteners? Well that's what I'm going to do then...I can't tell you how grateful I am to learn that fix. thanks again.
I tried it with a piece of plastic pipe.
Worked ok going forward.
but
1t pulled right off as soon as i backed up.
So I just installed skid shoes on the blade.
 
   / snow removal #17  
I used the black pipe schedule 40. ran a slice down it lengthwise with a metal cutting wheel on a circular saw.Then used a chisel to open the slot some and then set over the lip, and hammered it onto the blade, That made for a real tight fit, then a few tack welds down the edges
It seemed to work well, but was some work to cut it and separate etc.
 
   / snow removal #18  
First I used a 4" diameter but found it to be easier to get on but also easier to pop off. For my size RB cutting edge, a 3 inch diameter pipe worked best. 2" would have been impossible to separate and get around the cutting edge because 3" was hard enough. I cracked one on a large rock but made it thru the rest of last Winter with the replacement without a problem. I do go pretty slow after that cracked pipe incident. I'm still thinking of ways to improve the stability as there is some shifting going from forward to reverse (but is hasn't popped off yet). Wear has not been a problem. I'm in connecticut and we got fairly frequent storms last year. My driveway is 300ft gravel and another 75 feet paved at the top and bottom.
 
   / snow removal #19  
So doesn't sound like to bad a history for it. Its fairly cheap to replace.(pvc one) I wonder if you could drill some holes and use some cords or bail wire to secure it upward to the plow.
I have used a grader blade backwards for years, and slow is what its about.It gets done and without breakage. Sometime if its deep ill run it a few inches off the ground, and cut a first pass and then drop down and finish it up.Its not much slower all in all.
Al
 
   / snow removal #20  
savageactor7,
You could just try to work with the blade now while the gravel is relatively loose to see how it does. Go forward, back up turn it both ways. You will get a good sense of how it works when there is snow on the ground. Be careful though when backing up especially when the blade is turned around. It is bound to help some to decide what you want to do and you could play a little in areas where your driveway may not bee as smooth as you would want it.
 
 
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