Snow Equipment Owning/Operating snow removal

[JayCat]

It's hard to see by the first pics, but how do you have the "subframe" mounted to the tractor? More specifically, is it secured in two spots under the tractor (such as under the steering wheel area and under the seat area?)
J

All I did was weld a tab to a piece of 3/8" plate and bolted it to the existing holes in the two frame ends. The angle determines how high it will raise. The way mine is set up, the cutting edge is about 18" off the ground in the fully raised position. I like this type of lift cause you can push down and back drag nicely away from garage doors or anything.With your loader's valve in the float position, the blade follows the contour of the ground like your chain lift type

 

[MichaelE]

The front mounts are the two pieces of angle iron that are bolted to the loader's subframe. These are the pivot points for the plow's frame. From there I ran two angles back to existing holes that were in the lower portion of the loader frames two lift posts. This way makes it nice and rigid and the force is on the entire frame rather than just the front. This part I leave on all year around as its only slightly lower than the front differential and does not affect ground clearance by much

 

[Dirtnut]

Wow, that is awesome, I'm sure there may be others but I don't remember seeing another, with both the rear blower and front 4 way plow.

Best of both worlds.

I am especially interested in the lift system for the plow!, if I had seen that before I did mine, I might of tried the same thing.
I thought mine was simple but that is incredibly simple!!!
Did you come up with that yourself or is that a Kubota option, I have a DA cylinder, but use a chain for the lift so I don't have down pressure. I could make a solid link, but I still can't get over that, it totally eliminates the need for a lift frame.

I think the front blowers use a similar set up but with short little cylinders, never seen it done with a plow though.

It would be so easy to make a clevis type attachment, that bolts onto the weight bracket, to pin the cylinder to.



JB.

You have seen this set up before.

 

[sixgun]

Michael,

That is a really nice fabrication. I am especially interested in this because I'm thinking of putting a blade on the front of my 2710 , and your rig has the same frame and is the same weight.

Is that blade a 6 footer? I have loaded tires and will have about the same weight on the 3ph, but I am worried that the weight of a blade and the snow will make steering difficult for my machine. Did you shorten the plow frame because of this?

Could you provide some close-up pics of the front part of the frame? Also, what size/thickness angle did you use? Any problems with side to side deflection of the subframe?

 

[MichaelE]

Sixgun, the front part of the frame was not modified, all I did was cut about 8" off the back, cut the two pivot tabs off and rewelded them back on in a narrower configuration to match the width of the frame. Mine is a 7 foot, and yes, that is a little wide for a machine that only weighs 2500 lbs. with rimguard in the rears. It pushes great straight ahead, but to windrow more than 6 or 8 inches, you have to raise it just slightly to have the plow's weight on the front tires. Then it does a fairly good job. If I were to do it again, I'd look for a 6 foot. I used 2"x2"x3/8" angle, and ran them back to two existing 7/8" holes and cross braced them for strength.

 

[sixgun]

Thanks. I wonder if a set of skid shoes would help keep the front end in line, though the weight of the plow would still rob traction from the front wheels. Maybe a very lightweight blade would help, too.

My rear blade (6 foot Landpride) is light and the rear end of the tractor is where most of the weight is, so this works fine for me. Front plow would be so much better for my neck and back, though.

 

[johnamon]

My wife didn't want to get up and take pictures this morning at 5 am. Go figure!

These are from the security camera.