Snowblowers

   / Snowblowers #11  
PKS
I own a B-2910 with a FEL and a front mounted blower.
On my machine, the blower is attached to a subframe. You DO NOT have to take off the FEL frame. To switch between the two, you do the following:

Remove the blower assembly- quick mount 2 minutes- attach the FEL to its subframe.-2 to 3 minutes. You can use the FEL with the subframe still attached. Your only penalty is some groung clearance. Should not be a problem for winter FEL use.

Additionally, as to other's comments about front vs. 3 point blower. As others have stated, I believe it comes down to the length of your drive, backing up long distances is not fun, and your surface composition. My drive is uneven dirt/gravel. I must use a deft touch during the early season to avoid blowing gravel all over the place. I do use the FEL or a back blade for the the first couple of snow falls then the blower.

Three point works fine for short distances on solid surfaces. It depends on what you are doing.

Rick
 
   / Snowblowers #12  
I do a 1/2 mile drive/road with a 3PH blower. It's a bit of a pain going backwards, but after you get used to it it's not too bad. I've learned to essentially ride side saddle. I face the right side of the tractor so I can easily look backwards and have my foot on the HST peddle.

To me, having the loader AND blower usable at the same time is critical, and for that reason alone I wouldn't consider a front blower, even when my neck starts to hirt from looking backwards (actually, sideways when you ride side saddle).

Also, there are lots of choices for 3PH blowers and they are about 40% less expensive.

Unless you have a paved, debris-free drive/road, the one tip I would offer is to see if you can get a slip clutch. I replaced 6+ shear bolts this past winter and it gets old fast. But don't be tempted to use harder bolts - I used one out of necessity (nothing else available) and ended up blowing out a very heavy gauge drive chain. Thankfully it was only the chain and not the gear box.
 
   / Snowblowers #13  
Thanks for letting me know that the subframes do not interfere with each other.
 
   / Snowblowers #14  
Bruce,
In town here where I work we get an average of 15' of snow. Most of the people that have front mounts have driveways that are very long, or roads to keep open. It seems though, that many of the local snow removal companies have the rear mount, while using the FEL to eventually move the piles they blow, or to dig people out when they get in "over their head". I talked to some of the local contractors recently and they both said they like the rear mount for long, winding, driveways because the rear tires act as a pivot point and they feel they are much more manuverable in reverse. Also, be sure to buy a blower that has large enough side guards so that the auger is not exposed when blowing into landscaping logs, fences, garages, or homes.
Although, I do get a stiff neck easy....it probably boils down to how much you have to look backwards and how much you will need the FEL.

It is nice to know you have a hopefully long time to think about it!! The grass is finally starting to turn green!!!

Jeff...MI.
 
   / Snowblowers #15  
I just finished my first winter with a Meteor, 3PH. I really liked it. The reason I bought 3ph was cost... like said elsewhere, about 40-50% cheaper.
I have also just finished my first week with a box-scraper. I think that all the looking-over-my-shoulder when doing the finsh work is really no different. If you've done any kind of tractoring where you've had to keep a steady/close eye on the back, then I think you already know wether a 3PH is the way to go for you.

mark
markcg_sig.gif
 
   / Snowblowers #16  
dekker. i have a b2400, use fel and back blade for snow, works fine, BUT was considering blower, not being partial to going backwards was thinking front mount.what did u not like about it? and how does it hook to the mid pto? seems like it would be diffcult for shaft to go up front to run blower.
 

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