Snowplow---Down pressure or Float

[PineRidge]

Bernie neat looking setup. I'm not understanding how the blade moves up and down on irregular ground with the lift cylinder however. Would think the cylinder might restrict any free up and down movement. Am I confused? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[PoleClimber]

Here's a closeup of the part I made for the end of the cylinder to slide back and forth. When I let the plow down the cylinder has about 3 inches to float up and down, and if I want all down pressure I can extend the cylinder all the way down. I figure if this works I can have pressure down ,and I can make the plow float.I won't know until it snows.

 

[beenthere]

A one-way ram would have worked as well (at least for plowing snow), but your slip clevis is a good idea too.
To me, looks like your push arms are too high on the 'push' end, and the A-frame of the plow should (I was told) be parallel with the ground.
But as long as it works for you, that's great. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Ain't it great when we finally get the attachment that works the best, and don't stop half-way in between. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Deerlope]

Whatever happened to the KISS method. I have had a "chain float" snowplow on my FEL for many years and it has worked flawlessly. If I want to grade with it I will just remover the chain and replace it with a solid link. Maybe we should have a laser guide on these plows also.

 

[beenthere]

Deerlope
To each (of us), their own. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Glad you are happy with what you have, and I am with mine. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Great to hear how others fabricate their rigs too. I don't suspect there is 'just one' way to do it.

 

[Deerlope]

Thanks good buddy. I am always open to new ideas.

 

[PineRidge]

Now that I see your close-up it's a bit clearer. Please let me know how it works our for you once you have given it the acid test.

I'm also curious how long does it actually take to connect to the tractor?

 

[PoleClimber]

I have a rear blade to do my grading with. I wanted my front plow closer to the tractor so I could see at night better with the tractor lights and it 's so much easier to get this around driveways to plow snow. The height should be ok, I plowed with my truck before and it had oversize tires and it was the same height as the bracket on my tractor. Only time will tell.

 

[SkogenMe]

Possible to see a picture of the actual attachment to the tractor? I had a "chain float" setup on my old tractor that worked well for 10 years and was starting to construct one that connected to the FEL mount and the weight rack....but given that it isn't August anymore I am pushing that project to another time and I will just make a QA plate and run it on the FEL for this winter. Just curious about the attachment to the tractor because I stripped bolts out of the frame on the old setup....Hitting stumps in high gear make for good videos /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[keeney]

On my factory JD front blade, it has a direct connection between a dual-acting hydraulic cylinder and the blade vertical position. It can lift the blade or push it down in relation to the tractor. Also, by using the Hydraulic Valve Float (FEL Float), it can float, however, its a bit sluggish when the hydraulic oil is cold. On the order of a second or so to fall from the full-up position to the pavement.

The JD design has three or four quick-connects and pivots between the blade and the tractor frame. On mine, all these joints have worn to the point were there is enough lost motion that the blade can no longer generate down force below the level of the front tires.

This may seem like a good thing - built in permanent float. However, there are lots of times where I want to scrape the pavement extra-clean. Like to scrape off packed wheel tracks where the snow was driven on before it was plowed. Then, I really do want to put the full weight of the front of the tractor on the edge of the blade.

I ended up wedging a 2x4 between the tractor and the blade frame to restore some of the down-force range. I plan to make a permanent fix of some sort yet this fall.

Steering on my JD can still be accomplished with the split rear brakes even when the front wheels are completely off the ground. This is mostly used for minor corrections when pushing a long straight run with down-force.

One thing to note, its impossible to not subconciously turn the steering wheel the direction you want to go when the wheels are not on the ground. You always end up over-steering. Then when you do lower the front onto the ground, you take a sudden quick turn!

- Rick