3-Point Hitch Sorry another logsplitter question

[upnorth21]

Hi All, looked on here 45 minutes to find my answer,and wasn't satisfied, have a JD2720 year 2010 or 2011 and want to add on a logspiltter to the 3 pt , sounds like I need a diverter valve , rear hydraulics,or some type of logsplitter valve. Really confused on what I need. Have a buddy that put on a diverter valve and cost him over $1000 for valve and installation, I am a do-it yourselfer so to speak , but want it done correctly, any help would be greatly appreciated to set me on the straight and narrow. And also any logsplitter size recommendations would be great too, for this size tractor.

 

[Ted Summey]

How many gal/minute is your tractor pump? It may be more cost effective and make a faster splitter to use a PTO hydraulic pump with a 3 pt hitch log splitter. But that will depend on the capacity of your tractor pump. Use of the PTO pump requires a reservoir and the hoses. Even with all that it should be doable for less than 1000 but that is in addition to the cost of the splitter.

 

[L355SS]

If your loader valve has power beyond then you can run a hose from pb out (loader valve) to your splitter valve. That works ok for my home made splitter.
Dennis

 

[greg_g]

Do you have no hydraulics at all on the tractor other than the three point hitch?

Your pump has a 5.0 gpm flow rate at 2421 psi. My 3720 has a 6.8 gpm flow at 2500 psi. I use a SpeeCo with a 4x24 cylinder, and - suits me but - some folks might think it's a little slow behind my John Deere. Given that splitting force (tons) and cycle time is determined by cylinder size & PSI, you might want to shop for something with a smaller cylinder. Not necessarily shorter, just smaller diameter. The smaller the cylinder the faster your 5 gpm will cycle it.

//greg//

 

[adirondackmtnman]

Hi All, looked on here 45 minutes to find my answer,and wasn't satisfied, have a JD2720 year 2010 or 2011 and want to add on a logspiltter to the 3 pt , sounds like I need a diverter valve , rear hydraulics,or some type of logsplitter valve. Really confused on what I need. Have a buddy that put on a diverter valve and cost him over $1000 for valve and installation, I am a do-it yourselfer so to speak , but want it done correctly, any help would be greatly appreciated to set me on the straight and narrow. And also any logsplitter size recommendations would be great too, for this size tractor.

I've always been of the opinion that rather than running up the hours and burning the fuel on the tractor, it's better to buy a stand-alone splitter with it's own engine and pump. Those are a lot cheaper to replace/rebuild on a self contained splitter than the engine/pump on the tractor, and more economical to run, especially at today's fuel prices. The smaller Speeco units at Tractor Supply are pretty darn reasonable price wise, and in my experience, also very reliable. I've had my 35 ton, 12.5 hp for 6 years and countless cords of wood through it. Besides oil, gas, plugs, and a seal kit for the cylinder, I've had zero issues. Just my $.02 and may not work for your situation, but it's always suited me better.

 

[greg_g]

Well, everybody's entitled to an opinion. Mine is that - besides costing considerably less - a three point splitter requires only slightly above zero maintenance AND represents one less small engine on the place. I've got enough to do just maintaining mowers/chainsaws/generators/trimmers and the like. Forget tractor hours, they're nothing more than main than maintenance countdown markers. As far as tractor wear & tear, it's negligible. Mine just sits there at barely half throttle, doing nothing more than pushing hydraulic fluid. It's me and the splitter that are doing all the work

//greg//

 

[upnorth21]

Going to try to answer all . First trying to reduce the number of engines I have to take care each fall thats why I am preferring a 3 pt. The tractor does have a FEL on it so there is the 4 hydraulic hoses going to it. (right side as you are sitting on the tractor.) As far as the gpm have to take your word for the 5gpm flow rate can't seem to find it in my book unless I am looking in the wrong spot. The $1000 that my buddy spent was so he could run a lime trailer behind it, so not sure if that ran up the cost. But I am kinda looking for a list of what I would need to run a logsplitter, not trying to win a lumberjack days event in fastest logsplitting. I did my time when I was a teenager in the hand splitting department.

 

[J_J]

upnorth21 ,

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Pressure: 2421 psi [166.9 bar]
Valves: 2
Pump flow: 5.0 gpm [18.9 lpm]
Total flow: 10.5 gpm [39.7 lpm]
Steering flow: 5.5 gpm [20.8 lpm]


You should have about average speed on the log splitter, depends on your ability.

Several ways to do that/hookup.

You could use the curl hose form the loader and run extension to the back.

You probably have a PB port off the side of the tractor, or need an adapter to feed a line to the back for the log splitter input. The log splitter OUT port could go directly to tank or ren bact to the other port in the adapter and that will feed the 3pt.

The log splitter probably does not have a PB port, so the log splitter valve could be at some risk if using the 3pt with the log splitter using the 3pt path.

You would be more safe to dump the OUT from the log splitter directly to tank.

Do you have any more questions.

 

[greg_g]

The tractor does have a FEL on it so there is the 4 hydraulic hoses going to it. (right side as you are sitting on the tractor.)

Ok. Cuz you can use one set of those connectors to power the splitter until you get around to adding PB in the rear. One set (lift/lower) is associated with forward/backward motion of the loader joystick, the other set (bucket curl) with side to side motion of the joystick. Select the lift/lower set, disconnect the loader lines, connect the splitter lines, start the engine. Then use something (bungee cord) to hold the joystick either all the way forward or all the way back. Alteratively select the curl set, and tie the joystick one direction to the side. You're now ready to split. The downside is that the loader is partially disabled while the splitter is connected. But it works in a pinch.

//greg//

 

[lwalsh]

LVB25603 power beyond kit $393.25

the kit has hoses and fittings to tap into the two ports on the bottom side of the loader valve. A bracket that bolts to the rops crossmember and a jumper hose to complete the circuit when not in use. I believe there was also a pipe plug I had to insert between the valve ports to close the internal valve loop. Took me an hour or two to install on my 2720.

I built my own 3pt splitter and used a valve I don't remember the no. but JJ has given the no. in other posts. but on the foreward stroke it has two positions and travels very fast in position one because it is pushing fluid to both sides of the cylinder. I have a 4 in. cyl. and the return is pretty slow but it's fast enough for me. I think about 15 sec. for a 24" stroke.

 

[J_J]

You might be referring to the Prince LSR-3060, a fast extend log splitter valve.

http://www.cylinderservices.net/catalog.asp?prodid=601852

 

[upnorth21]

Now I am getting the just of it. Probably go with the PB port just to do it right the first time. Was thinking of a cheaper route, but lets make life easier. Thanks for the info new what the PB port looked like but did'nt know what it was called. Started loking in my local area they are running $358 around here. Also looked at splitters Northern Tool has one that cuts both ways called the Powerhorse anyone see one of these yet?

 

[KennyG]

Now I am getting the just of it. Probably go with the PB port just to do it right the first time. Was thinking of a cheaper route, but lets make life easier. Thanks for the info new what the PB port looked like but did'nt know what it was called. Started loking in my local area they are running $358 around here. Also looked at splitters Northern Tool has one that cuts both ways called the Powerhorse anyone see one of these yet?

Lots of us have the PowerHorse. The two way works well. Since I only have a 2320, I've got the small (13 ton) model. You would probably be interested in the 20 ton model. It goes on sale more often than the smaller one.

 

[upnorth21]

JJ I am lookin at Nothern Tools Powerhorse 20ton it says Pump 11GPM max and a max PSI at 3000, so going by your specs for the 2720 this should work for this splitter. So what flow should you go by, the total flow or the pump flow on the specs you give?

 

[greg_g]

Given that the 2720 only pushes 5 gpm, I'd say the 11 gpm/20 ton model would not be an economical choice. Even with the tractor at full throttle, the splitter itself will be cycling at under 50% of it's potential speed. At a rated 3 gpm, the 13 ton model will require far fewer RPMs out of your 2720 to operate the splitter at its full speed. I don't know many folks that split the full 26" capacity of a 20 ton model anyway. My fireplace insert for example, won't accept anything longer than 21". So most of the pieces coming off my own 26" splitter are in the 18-20" range anyway. And besides being $200 less expensive, the lighter weight 13 ton should be notably cheaper to ship.

//greg//

 

[Ted Summey]

Given the lower gal/min of the internal pump on the tractor, the PTO pump begins to make more sense. It requires no additions/modification to the tractor, is self contained and will provide sufficient pressure and flow to operate a larger splitter at an acceptable cycle time.

A PTO powered splitter requires a pump, a reservoir and the proper hoses in addition to the basic splitter. Set up requires some fabrication so if you can't do it yourself that cost has to be considered. You have to do the math on whether either type of 3pt hitch splitter beats the economics of a stand alone machine.

 

[upnorth21]

Thanks for the info, planning on adding a PB port for the hydrualics for the splitter ,the splitter I am looking at is not of PTO operated. I was looking at the 13 ton but on Notherns Q&A section someone asked a question if they could use there 6.3 GPM pump on the 13 ton and they said no not recommended, according to JJ's specs my 2720 has 5 GPM so my thought that won't work either. Doing more research it does sound like the 13 ton may be correct choice, due to the max preassure both is at 3000 , but 13 ton max pump is at 3gpm and 20 ton max pump is at 11gpm that is what is confussing . Don't want to have to replace seals with to much pressure. Just happen to be on the Nothern website when a popup from a rep came on chat mode he gave me a 800 number to call tommorrow for Northstar Power support then I will let you all know what I found out. Of corse they told me my tractor was to big. But still would like to here from all your responses.

 

[J_J]

JJ I am lookin at Nothern Tools Powerhorse 20ton it says Pump 11GPM max and a max PSI at 3000, so going by your specs for the 2720 this should work for this splitter. So what flow should you go by, the total flow or the pump flow on the specs you give?

You can not use total flow as that includes all pumps.

You should use the implement pump flow.

5 GPM is a good enough flow for the log splitter. I think that is plenty flow for most people, but.

There is a Prince log splitter valve called LSR3060 which is a fast extend log splitter valve. It will speed up your splitting time by about 50 %.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LSR3060Flyer.pdf

If you reduce the engine rpm to produce 4 GPM, the LSR3060 will make the hyd system think it is working with 25 GPM.

I am thinking that valve will give you a good workout.

 

[upnorth21]

Thanks for the info going to see how I can get this to fit into the system.

 

[Mechanos]

A note on the LSR3060 rapid extend valve. It will extend the ram about 4 times faster, but at NO LOAD. The ram will extend rapidly, but with only a fraction of the force. It is only used to take up the distance between fully retracted and contact with the log. Once the ram engages the log, you have to let off of the rapid extend detent and run the ram at normal speed to develope full splitting force. Rapid extend (as the name implies) only works on the extend stroke. The return stroke is still slow as molasses, but that's not a big deal. Since the return has a pressure sensative release, you just move the lever into the detent and move the next log into position. I usually do not have to wait long before ram has retracted far enough to make the next split. If I spend too much time jacking around with the next log, the ram has fully retracted, but rapid extend takes up the slack in short order.

You can not use total flow as that includes all pumps.

You should use the implement pump flow.

5 GPM is a good enough flow for the log splitter. I think that is plenty flow for most people, but.

There is a Prince log splitter valve called LSR3060 which is a fast extend log splitter valve. It will speed up your splitting time by about 50 %.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LSR3060Flyer.pdf

If you reduce the engine rpm to produce 4 GPM, the LSR3060 will make the hyd system think it is working with 25 GPM.

I am thinking that valve will give you a good workout.