Spencer's Pole Barn Project

[Spencer]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Mosey, I guess I will find out if the ground is too frozen today. I'm heading out now to dig some holes. I'll let you know tonight.

 

[Spencer]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I went ahead and dug the last 4 holes that I need to complete the outer perimeter. I was only going to dig 2 but decided not to chance the ground freezing up on my and just dig all 4. After dark I broke out the laser level and turned it on its side to mark out where to cut the tails of the trusses off. That went fast and easy. I took some pictures but they are probably too dark. I'll play with them in Adobe Photoshop Elements and see if there is anything worth posting.

 

[Spencer]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

I'd like some input from you guys on how to tie in the rafters for the lean-to roof. The lean-to roof will be 2"x8" rafters that will have the same slope as the main trusses.

Should I notch the 2"x8"s to ride on top of the 2"x12" truss carrier and fasten them to the side of the trusses with a brace underneath that is fastened to the truss carrier?

Or should I use some type of metal bracket and just fasten them to the truss carrier?

Something else completely?

I've attached the best photo I have of the lean-to. I can go out later and take a better photo of the situation if that would help to explain things better.

 

[MikePA]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

<font color=blue>I'd like some input from you guys on how to tie in the rafters for the lean-to roof.</font color=blue>
Are there hangers you can use?

 

[Spencer]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Mike, A hanger is what I meant when I asked if I should use some sort of metal bracket. I won't be going into the lumberyard until after Christmas so I was hoping to find out from you guys what you thought would be the best way before I went in there.

 

[MikePA]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

<font color=blue>Mike, A hanger is what I meant when I asked if I should use some sort of metal bracket.</font color=blue>
Oops, I missed that/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif. Here's a link to <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tamlyn.com/other/joisthangers.html>Joist Hangers</A>. The skewed ones indicate they can handle an angle from 40 to 50 degrees.

 

[Carl_NH]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spencer,

I would opt for notching the 2x8 into the 2x12 with the 2x8 face nailed to the side of the rafter. You could add a 2x4 to the side of the 2x12 as a carrier for the bottom of the 2x8. You probably should rip one side of the 2x4 to match the roof angle so it fits snug to the bottom of the 2x8. This would be faster and less costly than the individual hangers.

Carl

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Consult your building codes. I would assume hangers are your only legal way to attach those rafters. If you notched the 2x8 enough to fit on top of the 2x12, only 4" will be left, it WILL split. Cut a 4/12 angle on the end of your rafter, hold it up to the 2x12 header at the proper height and backnail thru the 2x12 into the end of the 2x8. After this, put a hanger under the 2x8 and nail as required. If you put the hangers in first, the tops of your 2x8's will be uneven as width varies >1/4".
Will you be placing collar-ties from the barn wall to the lean-to wall to hold it in place? A 2x6 nailed to the barn @ the elevation of the lean-to wall and going out to the header of the lean-to will work. We use them every 4'.

 

[cowboydoc]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Spence,

I'll get you some pics of mine this week. I did mine completely according to the specs. so it should work where you are.

 

[JohnMiller3]

Re: Spencer\'s Pole Barn Project

Hi Spence,

I don’t know exactly what tools you have on-site, but if you have an air compressor and a 3/8” air ratchet… use this to join the lean-to roof joists to your truss eave ends with lag bolts… sort of like cantilevering joists except you don’t need such a large overlap… perhaps 12-18” would be sufficient…

on the lean-to end… you can use hurricane steel straps to secure to top plate of the shed… and then have your joists long enough so you have another 24” overhang/eave for the shed end (gives you outside covered storage area, and disperses the water runoff away from the building even further…)