Spend my money.

[chim]

Parts of two posts I've recently made cover a couple of things you may be interested in:

Can say that the pucker factor for me depends on what I'm driving.

The little Ford 1210 with air-filled R1's that's been here for around 30 years is the one that's the least scary on slopes. Don't want to jinx it but that little beast is nearly impossible to roll with the 5' RFM down. The RFM acts like training wheels. It has mowed across steep sidehills in 4WD and crabbed the whole time. The few times it started to slide I steered uphill and mashed the hydro pedal to get it spun pointing straight uphill. Many times I mowed with my XL butt on the uphill fender.

The L4240 with liquid-filled grooved R4's is comfortable at around 17* but not much beyond that. I recently used a level on the grille guard to check the steepest part of the yard. Anything steeper than that wouldn't feel good going sidehill. The 4240 feels more stable than the B7500 and L3200 I had previously.

I have always removed the entire loader and frame for mowing on the tractors that had them. It's a lot more compact and is easier to use that way.


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I SUSPECTED the tightest turning tractor of mine would be the Ford 1210. Then the L3200 and L4240 would follow in that order. Measuring from the face of the rear tire at 3:00 and 9:00 with the steering to full lock surprised me. The L4240 was 71", the 1210 was 80" and the L3200 was 98".

 

[muddstopper]

I can see it now, a ford 1210 with a loader with 2000lb pallet of fertilizer on the front. No thank you. And I already know what a L4240 with a 6ft bushhog will do on steep ground. You can try it and we will decide what you think about it when you hit the bottom, either on its wheels or on its top. I dont hold out much hope for the L3200 either. I had better luck on the same hill side with a 4610su, 2 wheel drive, than the l4240. There is a reason I dont consider kubota when it comes to tractors to go in the wood with. Yes, I know a lot of folks own them and like them, but my experience tells me to stay far away. Best tractor I have found for wood work ( I probably should have mentioned small logging as work to be done, is actually the Massy Ferguson, older models, (235, 245's). It just seems to me they are more stable and heavier weight wise, and have more actual pulling power when dragging a heavy load. I dont know if that holds true to the newer ones being sold now. I dont know if they ever made a 245 with 4x4, but if they did, I would be looking for one. I dont need the latest bells and whistles. I appreciate the suggestions, but those are not the tractors I would consider.

 

[IndyJay]

When I was tractor shopping earlier this year I drove the Iseki built Massey 1840M and 2850M tractors. These both felt capable and secure, very nice tractors. I wanted something with a little more heft so the 1840M was out. A friend suggested that I check out Kioti. I drove both the CK3510 and the DK4510 and liked them both as well. The DK4510 had many of the things I liked about the 2850M but was $10,000 cheaper. If the prices had been a little closer I likely would have gone for the red tractor, if only because my old tractor was a Massey1250 (also Iseki) and I had a good 27 years with that tractor. In any case, with the 3 months (50 operating hours) that I've had the Kioti I feel that it was a good choice. One thing I will say, same as what others have said, make sure you buy enough tractor for the job. My MF1250 served me well but there were many times I wished it had more weight, only a few times more HP.

 

[redman135]

Hello Mudstopper, some things to consider: 1) Rims/ width. I recommend 2 piece rims. eg MF 240, go from 6' wide to 7' 6' wide. Major gain in stabitity/feel, while still being agile in confined spaces like forest.

2)Hydraulics: Loader, get 3rd service (grapple etc) and scv ,opt for 3 pairs(double action) as you always get mission creep as your experience increases. Standard is 2 pairs or 1pair +1single action scv on a budget model. Hydraulics are pricy to add later.

3)Be aware that budget models usually skimp on the hydraulic capacity(gal/min), loader valve bank quality(only lift or curl 1 at a time, a higher quality vlave bank lets you do a simultaneous lift and curl) , and the budget tyres are often narrow and cross ply vs wider and/or radial on upspec version.

4) Sit on the tractor and test for fit. There are small differences that may add up to a deal breaker. Also in no particular order:
Are the loader 3ph, scv controls comfortable to use/easy to reach?
Can you see the ground around the front wheels (dodge pot holes)?
Does the powersteering have enoughh power to turn in deep mud at max weight on the loader?
WHERE is the measurment for the loader weight rating made? Measured at the bucket pins you will appear to have a higher rating than 1 measured at the front of the bucket(The bucket measurment refects the real world lift capasity more accuratly)
Are you breathing exhaust fumes?
Can you tilt the seat so you don't have a lake on the seat when parked?
Are you parking in a shed, if so what is the clearance? folding ROPS?

Good Luck

 

[jeff9366]

I already know what a Kubota L4240 with a 6ft bushhog will do on steep ground. You can try it and we will decide what you think when you hit the bottom, either on its wheels or on its top. I dont hold out much hope for the L3200 either.

The primary factor influencing tractor stability is the spread/stance of the rear wheels/tires. The Kubota L4240 has rear tire/wheel spread adjustment of 12" as a standard feature with both R1/ag or R4/industrial tires. Did you set the wheels wide on the L4240?

The second factor is wheel ballast. Loading tires 50% to 75% with ballast improves tractor stability by lowering the center-of-gravity. Were the L4240 rear wheels ballasted with liquid or wheel weights?

Third stability factor is ground clearance. Less ground clearance is better than more for stability. R1/ag tires increase ground clearance over R4/industrial tires.
What tires did you have on the L4240?


The Three Point Hitch tractor has been marketed in the USA since 1939. Patents on the Three Point Hitch and TPH hydraulic controls expired in 1955. Since 1955 (66 years) all traditional compact tractors have been designed and produced around the Ferguson Three Point Hitch, worldwide.

The Three Point Hitch tractor design is generic.​

When T-B-N correspondents correlate any TPH tractor brand directly with stability it invites skepticism.

Best tractors I have found for wood work are the older Massy Ferguson models, (235, 245's). It just seems to me they are more stable and heavier weight wise.

Ground clearance of MF245 (1976-1983) is 9.4 inches.
Weight, diesel, 4,050 pounds bare tractor.
Width 71"

 

[zzvyb6]

A quality dealer is my highest priority. That means warranty, parts, delivery, attachment, and packages of tractor + implements. BTW: I looked at all the RK [Yanmar rebadged] tractors a few days ago. On the floor were about 6 models to compare side by side. Quite surprized on the prices. I see USED JD, Kubota, and NH, LS tractors going for more money.

 

[jeff9366]

I looked at RK [Yanmar rebadged] tractors a few days ago.

RK tractor are produced in Korea by TYM.

Some RK/TYM models feature Yanmar engines.

 

[Rdrcr]

We have the YT235C really enjoy Yanmar
comfortably built in and the controls are all
at your finger tips for easy operation. You
just might want to test drive these two Yanmars!

willy

Thank God Willy showed up!!!

YANMAR FTW!!!

OP spend your money!!!

Mike

 

[the old grind]

Yanmar, Branson, Kioti/Cat, TYM for me in the 35-50 hp range. Wheel spacers and filled tires for slopes. You only pay for it once. get the right tractor.

(what jeff said, what redman135 said)

 

[Williy]

There is also this Yanmar tractor!

willy