Splicing welding cable

[bdog]

Normally I just use twecos so I can make longer or shorter leads if need be. This however is a non welding application.

I purchased a high amp 12 volt air compressor and it has 4AWG cables that are short. You are supposed to mount the battery right beside it. Due to the application I can't do this and the manual says you can make the cables up to 20' if you use 1/0. I need about 15' so this is my plan.

The ground cable on the compressor is bolted on and will be easy to swap but the positive is going to have to be cut and joined to the 1/0 somehow. I don't think they make the butt splice connectors for wire sizes so different. Was thinking of maybe cutting a 1" piece of cooper pipe and putting them both in it and using my swedge tool? Maybe solder as well?

 

[Big Barn]

I like your idea. It would be the 'tidiest'

Using the Tweco's would work also. Might have to sleeve the connector on the 4AWG end.

OR Use Anderson connectors and install them on your truck or tow vehicle also for auxiliary jump starting. You could get multi use out of your "extensions"

 

[Fallon]

Power Poles kick *** for 12v usage. They are the smaller version of the Anderson connectors people talk about.

Anderson Power Poles, Connectors & Housings - Powerpoles for Sale | Powerwerx They have some of the Anderson SB connectors rated to over 300@ of draw. More of a ham radio site, but the hams can draw some serious wattage for some of their rigs.

I keep thinking about installing Anderson's for general usage on my trucks (jump starting, winching, etc.)

 

[PILOON]

The larger anderson's would work just fine but check at a welding supply as there exists a specific set of male/female connectors* to lengthen welding cables.

I first came across Andersons on electric fork lift truck batteries where there was serious amperages in the circuits.
My tractor, vehicles and jumper cables are all Anderson equipped.\

*by design they need a twist to lock and therefor wont 'un plug' as you drag out the welding cables.

Anderson has 3 ranges of sizes (maybe even 4) and they have an amperage range.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I have done the copper tube thing but do not rely on crimping as the tube is too thin to hold the tension. Fill the hole thing with solder. Check with an electrical supply house; they do make reducing splices but to have a positive crimp on 1/0 wire you really need a professional model crimp tool either hand or hydraulic. I would insulate with shrink wrap tube, probably two layers.

Ron

 

[bcp]

Would something like these be appropriate?

Morris 90612 Aluminum Splice/Reducer Mechanical Connector Type 2 Screws Number-2-Number-14 Wire Range: Collated Screws: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Hubbell Power Systems - Products for Electric Utilities, Telecommunications and Construction Industries

Bruce

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Would something like these be appropriate?

Morris 90612 Aluminum Splice/Reducer Mechanical Connector Type 2 Screws Number-2-Number-14 Wire Range: Collated Screws: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Hubbell Power Systems - Products for Electric Utilities, Telecommunications and Construction Industries

Bruce

Those work real well. If using copper wire you need to use the corrosion inhibiting compound though. They also make them in copper.

Ron

 

[farmer2009]

www.weldingsupply.com (tweco)

They have the tweco in 1/0 and larger.

 

[farmer2009]

Ok let's try this again. Since last post seems to be blank.

www.weldingsupply.com (tweco)

 

[muddstopper]

All of our trucks at work come with the anderson jumber cable systems on the front bumper. My personal truck, which I bought used, had a set of andersons for a warn winch on the front and rear. They looked just like the regular anderson, but they wouldnt connect no matter how hard i tried. I had several old sets of jumbers with anderson on one end and jumper ends on the other. I just swapped out the plastic parts of the warn/andersons for regular andersons so Now I have a place to hook my jumpers on each end of the truck. If I ever buy a winch for the truck, I will just use regular andersons on it. Took one set of jumpers and wired it to my dump trailer battery and now never worry about not having enough juice at the dump.. I dont know how well the andersons will work for welding leads, but mine are rated for 300 amps so they should work, but i would go for the tweeco's if it was me.

 

[joefromga]

Any decent car stereo shop will have these. They work great. Just wrap or tape them up.

 

[Texasmark]

I just used a pair of electrical connector/clamps, sized for the wire for hot and return. Stuck a wire in from each side, tightened the bolt, gave it a good wrapping with friction tape then plastic tape and haven't looked back. Electrical supply house has them.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Ok let's try this again. Since last post seems to be blank.

www.weldingsupply.com (tweco)

I would use the Lenco or Tweco equivalent to connect the positive lead. You wont have to worry about shorting it out due to scraping off the insulation. It is also quick to disconnect if needed and provides a positive electrical connection.
FYI: I use #4AWG cable for my welding whip with a 15 feet length and have no trouble with it overheating below 150 Amps of continuous use. If your compressor uses anything less than that for a 15 foot run, I think you would be wasting money with a 1/0 cable. I don't think you would have a voltage drop in that short of a distance either.

 

[Egon]

Just buy the full proper length of cable required.

 

[Big Barn]

Odd. Gary Fowler's post shows up blank on my app, but visible on tapatalk??

 

[Sawyer Rob]

To splice cable, I use a copper water pipe T of the right size. I clean and flux it and the cable ends, push the cables in each end of the fitting, and add lead through the T, heating with a torch until the pipe is full!

Once cool, I grind the T off the fitting and add tape and shrink wrap over the pipe fitting.

It's a permanent splice that I've NEVER had fail...

SR

 

[Big Barn]

To splice cable, I use a copper water pipe T of the right size. I clean and flux it and the cable ends, push the cables in each end of the fitting, and add lead through the T, heating with a torch until the pipe is full!

Once cool, I grind the T off the fitting and add tape and shrink wrap over the pipe fitting.

It's a permanent splice that I've NEVER had fail...

SR

I like this idea! I'll have to remember it.