Splitting Large Logs

turnkey4099 · May 10, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I think this baby is going to need the old wedge and sledge routine. Maybe since the center is rotted it will split a little easier. I hope so. My back hurts just looking at that thing.

Makes the L39 look like a little guy. It didn't even phase it though, loping along just above idle....Great machine.
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I removed a big ash just last fall. Solid all the way through, butt cut at about 30". Worked it up with wedge/sledge plus chainsaw. Also worked up the remains of an old, rotted in center ash year before. Both acted the same, Split nicely (except for the knots) but only after driving wedge well in - down to point 'oh oh, that isn't going to split' point when one more swing and 'pop'. Any knots/crotches got the saw treatment and the big clear rounds also got cut in half befoe wedgeing. While I am one who likes manual work (have a splitter but don't use it), there are times when the power route is the way to go.

Harry K

DaMadman · May 10, 2005

OK I admit not reading the whole thread so if anyone suggested one of these already forgive me. But most of the time one will do the trick sometimes I have had to use two

Wood Grenade

http://undercrank.com/posts/05/01/happy-new-log-splitter

63DH8 · May 10, 2005

IF the rounds are as long as you want them, and the problem is splitting them, all you need is your chainsaw and wedges. A 20 inch bar on your chainsaw will cut 40 inches if you cut on both sides of the round. Use the wedge to pop it apart the rest of the way.

If the rounds are longer than what you want, then use several wedges lengthwise down the log until the log is halfed or quartered. Then use the chainsaw to cut to length. You can cheat by cutting the log lengthwise with the chainsaw on opposite sides, then use the wedges. Don't be afraid to use as many wedges as you need for the job. It may take four or five or more wedges to do the job if the log is long.

JimMorrissey · May 11, 2005

Sky...I intend to use a large "eye" lag bolt. For the couple of really big one...I'll lag and lift with the fine hoe and positon perfectly on the splitter /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Varmintmist · May 11, 2005

Cut the rounds smaller. If you have them at 24" and cant handle them, slice them in half. If you still cant get it on the splitter they are a heck of a lot eaiser to split thin with a maul. I have done a couple of oaks for my father that were big. And there is a white oak on the property line that needs to come down. My 20in bar probably wont make it, soo this will be my first center bore.

10-12 inch splits will burn as well as 20-24 inch splits, better if you are really packing the stove.

SkyPup · May 11, 2005

Sounds like a good plan but don't get under one while its airborne!

JimMorrissey · May 11, 2005

Varm,

I bet the Husky 359 rips through the wood.

JimMorrissey · May 11, 2005

Madman...I just got myself a genuine "Wood Gernade". I asked a few hardware stores they just looked at me funny. Finally found one. Hopefully it'll help this process. I got a couple of standard wedges too.

arthr31 · May 11, 2005

Hey, if you want some advice on the bore cut: Plan your bore cut carefully and then try not to hesitate while cutting. I got my saw stuck in one and had to remove the main assembly from the bar while stuck. Very dangerous. Don't wear hearing protection so you can get a sense of what the tree is gonna do... Good luck, be safe!

arthr31 · May 11, 2005

Jim, those wood grenades are pretty good, but they too can get "stuck". I just lost one (well, really embedded it) in an elm log this am.... It doesn't explode the wood as said, but it's a lot better than the standard splitting wedge...