Sputtering

/ Sputtering #1  

AceDeuce

Gold Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2006
Messages
348
Location
Northern Virginia
Tractor
Kubota BX1500 w/ R1's and LA181 FEL
Lately my engine has been behaving oddly. It runs fine most of the time but then acts as if I momentarily turned the key to the off position then quickly on again. It doesn't completely die; it just sputters and comes back to life again. This will occur at random for some period of time (a few minutes to maybe a 1/2 hour) and then dissappear completely.

The last time I observed this was last weekend. It happened just after the tractor had warmed up while I was operating at low RPMs, no PTO, pulling a back blade. Then it went away. It came back later that morning when I started mowing (full RPMs with PTO engaged). Note: I never shut down the machine between operations.

I'm thinking it's either a clogged fuel filter (242 hours), water in the fuel, the shutoff solenoid malfunctioning, a malfunctioning seat switch, or [God forbid] the injector pump.

Where should I start?
 
/ Sputtering #2  
Could be all of what you mentioned or a small air leak somewhere.
 
/ Sputtering #3  
Sounds like the easiest thing to do will be to change the fuel filter, clean out the bowl, etc. This will require a system bleed as well. All very easy to do. Do that first and let us know how it comes out.

I'd check the air filters too.

What tractor do you have?
 
/ Sputtering
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I've never changed the fuel filter before on this machine. According to the manual the system bleeds automatically by turning the key to the "on" position for 30 seconds. I'm assuming this allows the electric fuel pump to push out all the air.

Besides physically exchanging the filters, is there anything else to it? The last thing I want to do is make my machine unusable requiring an unscheduled trip to the dealer to unscrewup a rookie mistake.

Anyone else have experience changing out fuel filters? Any helpful tips 'n' tricks?
 
/ Sputtering #5  
I changed the fuel filter on my Cummins and I filled the filter with diesel by hand before attaching it. Results were great!
Jim
 
/ Sputtering #6  
Go do it. It will not be as hard as you think.

Wear long rubber gloves and use some rags and a pail to handle any spillage. Shirt tails work fine but the person doing laundry may become unhappy with the wash results!:D
 
/ Sputtering #7  
AceDeuce said:
Anyone else have experience changing out fuel filters? Any helpful tips 'n' tricks?

Something to catch the fuel that bleeds out of the line and something to plug up the feed line from the tank will be really helpfull. If they are like my BX2200 the one underneath isn't much fun to get at. The hoses will be stuck on pretty good after almost 250 hours. I wound up having to remove the brackets that hold them as well in order to change them out but the BX1500 could be different.

Good luck!
 
/ Sputtering #8  
Hmm. The one on my L4400 is extremely simple to get at and change, so I may have mislead about how easy it was. You just turn the stop-cock to off and unscrew the ring that holds the glass bowl on. The only fuel you have to deal with is what's in the bowl. Just dump it out. There is a spring and an o-ring and the filter which have to go back on in the right order, but that part is easy. No need to refill it or anything. Turn the stop-cock back to on. There is a bleed valve that you leave open for a second after cranking and then you're done. No muss no fuss. Sounds like it might be harder on some of the smaller machines. Still sounds like the best first step.
 
/ Sputtering #9  
The fuel filter is a starting place. I would also ohm out the saftey switches like your seat switch, one of them maybe out of adjustment just enough it looses connectivity or is just going on the fritz causing the fuel solonoid to shut down momentary.
Also check all grounds for corrosion.
 
/ Sputtering #10  
im going to go with the seat switch actually. do the filter because it will need it by now. when your operating the machine just watch that you arn't leaning over one way to much, this can make the switch turn off. it is sometimes caused by a faulty switch which is over sensitive.
 
/ Sputtering #11  
You're due for new fuel filters anyway. I don't know if you have 1 or 2 (the other BX's have 2). The bottom filter (right under middle of floorboard) on my BX is a tight fit, the other (near the injector manifold) is relatively easy.

You might consider ditching the cheap wire hose clamps and getting conventional band clamps. Easier on you and the fuel line.

Use a drop cloth. Gently clamp the tank line to avoid a major mess. Unless you're very fastidious you may get a diesel shampoo anyway. I did. :eek:

System is easy to bleed. Turn switch on and wait a minute or so. Couple of hiccups and it should smooth right out.

To elminate the seat switch, it can be easily jumped just to see if the problem stops.

Good luck,

Russell in Texas
 
/ Sputtering
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks for all the replies. I know the filters (my machine does have two) need replacing. I've been avoiding it until now because I was unsure about the bleeding process but it sounds fairly straighforward. And the wife loves the aroma of "diesel de toilette." ;)

The other possibilities are probably more remote although not out of the question. My machine is garage kept, cleaned after each use, and not abused (too badly anyway). I thought about the seat switch but it appears to be working correctly and my fat ***** certainly doesn't allow the seat to come up by accident. Electrical gremlins are always difficult track down though. I'd say the shutoff solenoid would be my next stop if the filters don't have any effect.
 
/ Sputtering #13  
I wouldn't discount the seat switches to quickly. Mine was too sensitive when I first got it...everytime I slowed down or turned the engine would sputter just like you describe. I bypassed them. Problem solved.
 
/ Sputtering #14  
AceDeuce said:
I've never changed the fuel filter before on this machine. According to the manual the system bleeds automatically by turning the key to the "on" position for 30 seconds. I'm assuming this allows the electric fuel pump to push out all the air.

Besides physically exchanging the filters, is there anything else to it? The last thing I want to do is make my machine unusable requiring an unscheduled trip to the dealer to unscrewup a rookie mistake.

Anyone else have experience changing out fuel filters? Any helpful tips 'n' tricks?
ACE DUECE,
I had trouble ,because i re used them original,wire type clamps that held them in.They make dents in the hose,and if you reuse them and you dont get them exactly right ,you will suck air,and what a pain!!The dealer up here reccomends changing to the waterpipe type,only about 20 cents each if i recall.Solved my AIR problems.
I use a pair of wide vice grips and pinch off the line from the tank to stop the flow.A rag in the jaws keeps you from marring the hose.
To bleed turn on the key for 30 seconds.The little fuel pump under the tractor is there for bleeding purposes.I recently found out this myself.
ALAN
 

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