Stalling an HST tractor

[s219]

This is one of those break-in rules that doesn't make sense. On a tractor, 50 hours is a *long* time. I can't imagine getting a new tractor and killing 50 hours before using it for actual work. I think I would avoid long term steady RPMs at any speed, but otherwise run the engine as I'd normally use the tractor.

 

[namesray]

when i got my new kubota b7800 6 years ago, the way i broke it in for the first 50 hrs, was to let it mid idle for first start of the day warm up for quite a while, no matter what the outside temperature was (15 minutes or so each time) then i ran it just shy of the rated rpms (2300). i bush hogged most of the first 50 hrs and i needed the rpms up to do that. i just kinda kept everything smooth as far as operating it, ex: easy brakings, easy into piles doing loader work, and easy direction changes on the hydrostat. other then that, i just ran it like a normal tractor. dealer even told me to do it the way i was doing it. i have 830+ hours on it now with hardly any problems what so ever along the way. i brake all new equipment in this way and i have few if any problems with it while i own it.

 

[k0ua]

This is one of those break-in rules that doesn't make sense. On a tractor, 50 hours is a *long* time. I can't imagine getting a new tractor and killing 50 hours before using it for actual work. I think I would avoid long term steady RPMs at any speed, but otherwise run the engine as I'd normally use the tractor.

that is what I did too.

James K0UA

 

[RoyJackson]

This is one of those break-in rules that doesn't make sense. On a tractor, 50 hours is a *long* time. I can't imagine getting a new tractor and killing 50 hours before using it for actual work. I think I would avoid long term steady RPMs at any speed, but otherwise run the engine as I'd normally use the tractor.

When I bought my 790, it had 24 hours on the meter. Finish mowing is my most typical task...which, of course, requires running at PTO RPM constantly.
All I did was stop every 10-15 minutes and vary the RPM for a minute or so, then back to mowing for another 10-15 minutes.
It was a bit of a pain..but it did break the engine in.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

I stalled out my HST CT230 last week plowing the driveway.

Fired it back up, kicked up the RPMs from 1800 to 2100 and didn't have any more problems.

I've been grading a couple times and caught a boulder and come to a sudden stop, but didn't kill the engine, and took my foot off the pedal before it did.

I kinda doubt stalling out under load was what caused your problem.

 

[IndyIan]

I'm amazed an engine can run at all with a broken crank? :confused2:
How can both ends of the crank still be turning? All the accessories run off the front of the crank and the tractor is powered by the back, so was the fan and everything just sitting there while the poor motor limped along on the back 2 or 3 cyl? Seems impossible but I guess its not:laughing:

 

[beppington]

My tractor's PTO RPM is 2700.

I run it at 2000 RPM on road trips between its home & my vacant property, & when bush hogging or grading.

I run it at 1700 - 1800 RPM when doing most other tasks, like lifting debris with the loader.

I run it at 1500 - 1700 RPM when moving around the property between tasks doing nothing much but moving.

I even sometimes move the tractor a little ways here & there at or just barely above idle.

I hope this isn't harming the tractor, but RPM above 2000 just seems very unnecessarily excessive for anything I do with the tractor (so far).

Also, I have Stall Guard HST+ (auto maintains RPM) and Auto H-DS (auto downshifts to Turtle when load increases), so maybe those two features offset some power deficiencies I may have by running the RPM "too low".

 

[MHarryE]

These break-in statements are in the book but do they really intend a person to comply? My first engineering job was self propelled combines. You only run full RPM or your machine won't run right. Shortly after I started at Allison-Chalmers we replaced our tractor gasoline engines with Chevrolet engines to save bucks. No special break in req'd - 3,000 full load rpm, 3200 high idle from the start. We used about every engine A-C ever built, and then switched to Deutz when they bought us out. No break-in, go to the field and run full power & speed. Then I switched to Cat for the next 20 years. My first project was a cold planer for milling up asphalt. 1,000 HP, V-12, and no babying that. Accompanied first machine to a job site. Operator started it, warmed it up, and then we went to milling with the computer set to keep it at 95% power holding 5% as a cushion. So when I get my new L5740 I read that blurb about low load low speed break-in. My thought is what did I buy, a toy or a working tool. If I have to spend the first week pulling the cart I use behind my lawn tractor up and down the road to break it in they can take it back. But Kubota engines are used in other makes and they don't require babying them so I have used mine like a work tool.

 

[orezok]

I don't know that I've ever seen an emergency backup generator that has run at anything less that full rated RPM from the first start. Crank 'em cold from the initial start and go to full rated RPM in 5 seconds or less. Doesn't seem to hurt them a bit.

 

[topstoy]

Make sure you are not collecting water in your front axle.