Star head screws

[Stimw]

I used to replace a lot of semi trailer floors, I would guess 30-60 over 30 years.
I would start with a 50 lb box of T-40 Torx head self tapping floor screws and use all but about 5 lbs!
Long before my time they used flat blade screws! I came across them on old equipment.
I used a regular 1/2" impact for the screws.
I just added HARDIE Plank Siding to a 2568 sq ft house and used Hardie Backer square head screws.
I found that a 1/4" cordless impact driver (HF) drove them much better than a (HF) drill.
I would have thought that the impact would have been worse but it really made it much easier!

 

[DieselBound]

For removing smaller Torx screws use a manual impact driver (the kind you smack with a hammer), it gives better control (less likely to rip the head off as can happen with powered impacts). Be sure to get/have/use good quality bits (socket based, hand -screw- driver based, or T-handle ones).

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I'm rununing across more and more screws with the star shapes holes in their heads also called torx screws. I often find myself having to drive the screwdriver into the head with a hammer. Are they supposed to fit that tight?

Guys, I think this was toung-in-cheek! Lol.

 

[LD1]

I guess, although both technically called screws, in the automotive sense we are seeing more and more "bolts" that are star drive. Some t45-t55 size drive. Seat belt mounts come to mind. Find a lot of smaller ones on dashes and instruments as well.

In a "bolt" type application, id prefer just the standard hex bolts.

When it comes to screws in the construction sense...yea, love the torx. But I imagine when Phillips came out, and you had the option of Phillips vs flat head......everyone was probably singing praise about Phillips just the same as we are with torx today.

 

[DieselBound]

I recall in my youth (motorcycle work) enthusiastically ditching Phillips screws for Allen screws. Allen head screws/bolts aren't bad, in the smaller variety/sizes; plus, bolt extractors work really good on these when you chew up the center.

This all reminds me... I've got some Torx screws/bolts that some ape tightened to some ungodly torque on the daughter's valve cover (trying to stop a leak, I'm sure, which only made it worse). Didn't have good Torx bits at the time in which case I wasn't able to get them out (didn't want to risk breaking anything as I didn't have much time with the car- it resides a couple hours away, so I cannot afford to do something half-arsed).

 

[bcp]

I'm rununing across more and more screws with the star shapes holes in their heads also called torx screws. I often find myself having to drive the screwdriver into the head with a hammer. Are they supposed to fit that tight?

You need to round the edges of your flat screwdriver to make it go in easier. Or you could grind a flat tip on your 6-point Phillips.

:laughing:

Bruce

 

[DieselBound]

Be on the lookout for Phillips screw impostors (Prince and Reed)!

 

[motownbrowne]

I guess, although both technically called screws, in the automotive sense we are seeing more and more "bolts" that are star drive. Some t45-t55 size drive. Seat belt mounts come to mind. Find a lot of smaller ones on dashes and instruments as well.

In a "bolt" type application, id prefer just the standard hex bolts.

When it comes to screws in the construction sense...yea, love the torx. But I imagine when Phillips came out, and you had the option of Phillips vs flat head......everyone was probably singing praise about Phillips just the same as we are with torx today.

I just removed an Econoline bench seat that was held in with T55 screws. Felt like they took about 150ft/lbs to break them loose.

I've got an '87 wrangler. There's torx fasteners all over the darned thing. I have no idea when they started being used in Jeeps, though. I'm with you, though. I'd prefer a regular hex cap fastener in those applications.

 

[bcp]

Many of the early ad for Phillips screws emphasized their advantage over slotted screws for power-driven screws in manufacturing assembly.

Bruce

 

[stuckmotor]

I'm the OP.

Thanks to everyone for your replies. The overwhelming consensus is NO, they're not supposed to be that tight.

I think what I need to do is take down the sizes of all the star bits I have and compare them to the fullest sets I can find. It seems that I must be driving in some bits that are close in size to the holes in my screws/bolts. I never thought the bits were stepped so close that would be possable.

 

[RandyT]

As a small engine mechanic, I am seeing the torx head more and more, also several of the engines I work on now have the male version of a torx, there is another name for them but I can think of it right now. Am starting to see some of the new spline head bolts showing up on equipment now also.

 

[BigBoyToys]

The "Torx" or "Star" heads are awesome for wood with an impact driver...but ask any Jeep owner what they think about Torx used in metal applications and you'll hear "I hate them suckers"!!! In the course of rebuilding my 91 Wrangler every Trox I've pulled has been replaced with a hex head bolt. In most cased the Torx heads strip out even while using high quality Torx bits. I've had to use my Mig to weld nuts onto most of the Torxs to remove them.

 

[Xfaxman]

I'm the OP.

Thanks to everyone for your replies. The overwhelming consensus is NO, they're not supposed to be that tight.

I think what I need to do is take down the sizes of all the star bits I have and compare them to the fullest sets I can find. It seems that I must be driving in some bits that are close in size to the holes in my screws/bolts. I never thought the bits were stepped so close that would be possable.

This list gives the sizes and measured diameter:

 

[chim]

..............When it comes to screws in the construction sense...yea, love the torx. But I imagine when Phillips came out, and you had the option of Phillips vs flat head......everyone was probably singing praise about Phillips just the same as we are with torx today.

Back when I was much younger, I used either bits made for a spiral Yankee driver or cut-off screwdriver bits chucked into a corded drill. We used mostly slotted pan head sheet metal screws and it took some skill to drive them.

Then the cordless parade began in the early 70's. Some of the first ones didn't have enough torque or battery life to be useful. Within a few years B&D had the 12V Kodiak. It was the first drill I used that was worthwhile. About the same time we discovered phillips and you are correct. It was a giant leap. Since then, cordless tools have really come into play.

The more recent DeWalt offerings provide a wide assortment of cordless drills, drivers and in voltages up to 120V (Two 60V Flexvolt batteries per tool). My absolute favorite tool is the 1/4" 20 Volt Impact. I bought a second one just to make sure I'd always have one handy. Right now one is in my job box at church and the other is at #3 Son's house. Fortunately there are a couple 18V impacts around. I have a keyless chuck made for the 1'4" impact that pops in, and with that addition rarely use a drill any more.

 

[daugen]

slotted to Phillips to #2 square drive to star heads.
Steady improvement, though all those inplace screws means you have to maintain
an assortment of bits. i just recently went over to star drives, bought a box by mistake,
used the included bit, and thought to myself, good grip

 

[jmc]

Assortments like this are cheap and handy, for all the weird stuff:

Velleman VTBT11 1-Piece Screwdriver Bit Set - VellemanStore

I bought a similar set locally at Ace Hardware. While the assortment is nice, I haven't tried them on any stubborn screws yet to have a feel for their metallurgy. At that price, you have to wonder.

 

[flyerdan]

I've got the same set of security bits, Harbor has them, so if you have a local store it's worth getting a set to have for the just in case factor.
They also have a torx bit set that seems to be well made.

 

[chim]

Assortments like this are cheap and handy, for all the weird stuff:

Velleman VTBT11 1-Piece Screwdriver Bit Set - VellemanStore

I bought a similar set locally at Ace Hardware. While the assortment is nice, I haven't tried them on any stubborn screws yet to have a feel for their metallurgy. At that price, you have to wonder.

Take a big black marker and mark TOP on the top. If it's like mine, you'll dump the contents if you open it upside down.

 

[DieselBound]

Take a big black marker and mark TOP on the top. If it's like mine, you'll dump the contents if you open it upside down.

I'd recommend marking "BOTTOM" (or, "OPEN FROM OTHER SIDE") on the bottom! I care more about being wrong (if you're going to help steer someone sometimes the best is to tell them WHAT to avoid )

 

[PILOON]

Phillips was a good upgrade from slot and did lend itself somewhat to production line methology;
Somewhat during the WW2 era a Canadian Scot named Robertson designed a better screw named ' Robertson'
The US war machine recognized the advantages and wanted to use it as it was superior to the Phillips design however Mr Robertson, being a Scot, insisted on royalties to which he was denied but he had wisely obtained a patent.
Consequently they came up with the Torx design as a better design.

Ironically the cabinet industry has adopted the Robertson in production applications.
The fact remains that Robertson screws and drivers are simpler and probably cheaper to produce.

Ever attempt to fit a slot (or Phillips) screw on a driver bit without it falling off? with Torx and Robertson this is easy, and without a magnet tip.