Starter Bolt Problems

[Dan Hunter]

Well, the 6.5 turbo diesel snapped another starter bolt. With a 20:1 compression ratio and the same bolts as a gasser, it's expected. Sadly, this time when I was drilling the remaining bolt that was in the bellhousing to run the fluted remover in...the drill snapped flush with the remaining bolt.

What now? Suggestions other than a match, please.

 

[2458n]

Washer over flush remaining bolt. Weld washer onto bolt. Weld nut on top of washer. Back bolt out with wrench.

 

[crashz]

When you re-install, use GM bolts and make sure the little bracket is used at the front of the starter too. Those make all the difference.

 

[Dan Hunter]

Washer over flush remaining bolt. Weld washer onto bolt. Weld nut on top of washer. Back bolt out with wrench.

I should have mentioned that the remaining part of the bolt is recessed 3/8" inside the bellhousing.

 

[s219]

I should have mentioned that the remaining part of the bolt is recessed 3/8" inside the bellhousing.

Of course it is! I have no good ideas, but can sympathize. I had this happen one time, and having a hardened drill bit broke off in the way added another crazy complication, but in that case the bolt was still mostly flush and I could get to it.

Could try to buy a bit made for drilling into hardened steel and see if you can use that to drill out the broken bit (would be something locksmiths use, among others). May need to first reach in the hole with a dremel and put a starting dimple in the middle before drilling.

How big are the bolts/hole? Can you see the spiral flutes of the bit and possibly be able to hammer pins or nails into the gaps? Maybe then reach in with a MIG wire and tack them? Sadly, I am guessing the bolt hole is probably too small for that.

 

[cruz54982]

I have used needlenosed pliers ground down to fit in the fluting and turned the bit backwards with some luck on a few problems just like this one..............its a bad one for sure --- good luck ! let us know what works !

 

[ozob2k]

Carbide pointed burr in a die grinder will cut out a hardened drill or easy out. Hard to hold steady but works well. Wear a face shield. Slivers go every where.

 

[crazyal]

When all else fails I swap over to my die grinder. Either a carbide bit or a grinding stone to remove the drill bit. Once you do get it out I would use all new bolts. If possible look to see if ARP makes something better than the original bolts.

 

[Billrog]

To drill out broken bolts it's handy to have a reverse drill bit ( colbalt ) generally by the time your in 1/4" the broken bolt backs out.

 

[dodge man]

If all else fails, just get it hogged out and install a helicopter.

 

[Dan Hunter]

Here's where I'm at....

I noticed the bolt broke in the threaded area. Also, while trying to drill the remaining portion it went even further in. I figured there must be something there to get a bite on. I used another bolt and pushed it in until it loaded up and marked it. I backed it out to where the threads just touched the bolt and marked it. I had better than three-fifths of the threads available. I dropped an oversized nut on the shaft to use as a fat washer and stuck it in. Thirty five pound feet easy. I'll order some ARPs and swap them in but I think I'm good.

Here's how I think I got into this mess. After a surgery event for me, the truck felt left out and started leaking fuel. I paid a dealership to hunt it down and the mechanic acknowledged that he'd pulled the starter looking for the leak. I noticed the starter bolt issue during an oil change. The other bolt was tight. NEITHER of the bolts on the rear bracket were even contacting let alone tight. I think he forgot them.

 

[Dan Hunter]

I'm purchasing reverse drills for all my flutes.