Starter keeps cranking ???

[kebo]

Is the problem still occuring?? If so, my guess would be that it's just wired wrong and it's getting 12vdc all the time to the motor somehow or other. But, that's just a guess! Hope you have it figured out by now anyway.....

 

[Richard]

Weather permitting, I won't fool with this until this weekend

 

[Wheatland KB]

Disconnect the wire that comes from the key switch and goes to the 'trigger' connection.

Put a test light or vlolage meter on that wire and check if there is current when the key is in the start position and no current when you release the key from the start position.

If there is current when the key is in the run (not in the start position) it might be a bad key switch or the wrong wire.

If the current goes off when the key is in the run position I would suspect a sticking solenoid.

Either way (correct me if I'm wrong) the starter should not have power and keep cranking unless the solenoid contacts are closed (sticking or energized).

 

[jinman]

My opinion is similar to Wheatland KB. I would measure to see if you don't have some voltage at the start trigger terminal when the key switch is in the Run position. It might not be enough current to pull-in the solenoid, but it would be enough to hold it.

If this were a mechanical problem of binding in the solenoid, it would still be hung up after you throw the disconnect. When you put the disconnect back to normal, the starter would continue. By interrupting the ground, you force removal of electrical power. If I read your description right Richard, that takes the starter back to off until the key is turned to Start again. That means this cannot be a case of mechanical binding. Your problem is electrical in nature.:2cents:

 

[J_J]

This problem could be solved rather quickly if he would take the starter off and put it on a bench tester, doing the test himself or taking it to Autozone, or where ever.

About the only way to cause the starter to run continuous, with the switch in the run position would be if the solenoid shaft or throw out shift lever is jammed and pressing on the copper ring supplying voltage to the starter.

The spring in the solenoid may not be strong enough to overcome any resistance caused by the mechanical functions. Binding, etc.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day my guess is it is a cav style starter with an adjuster screw though where the pinion lever pivots, these need to be adjusted when you put a new solenoid on or they will give you the symptons you are describing. Now for the bad part to adjust them properly the need to be out of the machine so that you can see the pinion travel.


Jon

 

[fixit]

Some solinoids have a taping off of the starter side in to the windings of the solinoid not sure what for but my money is on the fact that you have the solinoid on 180 degrees wrong:thumbsup:

 

[gengine]

Some solinoids have a taping off of the starter side in to the windings of the solinoid not sure what for but my money is on the fact that you have the solinoid on 180 degrees wrong:thumbsup:

In my thinking, it shouldn't matter, should it? Those two big posts are only connected when there is voltage to the "trigger" post, unless you try the screwdriver trick.
My guess is:
1: the solenoid isn't seated properly,
2: a faulty starter relay, if your machine has one, some don't.
3: bad key switch
Aside from your battery wire, all those other wires run various other acceries, such as lights, so they should be connected to the post with your battery cable, unless they are for something that should only be on while cranking, at which point they would be conected to the other post. Most solenoids and relays have a "b" or "bat" stamped next to the post that your battery wire is 'supposed' to be connected to, but in theory that shouldn't matter.