Starting a Stove Fire

   / Starting a Stove Fire #171  
I only start a couple of fires a year. Once my stove is going, I tend to keep it going, usually from the end of October or beginning of November until beginning or middle of April.

I crumble newspaper, which is the first layer.

Chips left over from splitting wood goes on next, followed by small splits, and a couple of middle sized split pieces.

I sprinkle kerosene or diesel over the top of everything, open the ash clean out door (Harman Mark III) and light it up. You can watch the temp rise on the mid pipe thermometer and I get a strong draw up the chimney.

After it's established I close the door, leaving the damper open, and adjust the damper down over the next hour or so while I feed the fire. Soon I have a nice coal bed and I can burn normally.

I re-establish in the morning with splits on the coal bed and an open damper, both on the ash door and the manual pipe damper.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire #172  
Pine cones also make great fire starters.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire #173  
Pine cones also make great fire starters.

They sure do. A few years ago, a fire started by a faulty exhaust system across the canyon from me caught pine trees on fire. The lit cones from those trees rolled down into the canyon, and we lost two homes to the flames. Shortly after that, the embers landed on this side of the canyon, and I sat up all night with a fire crew waiting it to come for my home. I got lucky when the fire stubbed out when it hit a bench of rock, and it never got here. I wasn't so lucky with the Camp Fire, whose flames toasted my parcel. Only firesafe construction and a 30' perimeter of concrete, gravel, and decomposed granite saved the house that time, as there were no firefighters on hand and I evacuated.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire
  • Thread Starter
#174  
Just eying the paper grocery bags we are getting instead of plastic. Probably good fire starters.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire #175  
I personally found, that at times the propane torch is not enough to get the SS liner heated up to get a draft started. I have tried. So I am unconvinced, that for my installation, a bulb would work. Best option is just to use something what burns (guaranteed) and with little smoke. I actually used to love the gell type fire starter, but have resisted spending the money. Hate when you spend money to save money. But opening all the doors and windows in the middle of winter to try and get rid of the smoke and not have the smell get into the furnishings, isn't good either, never mind uncomfortable.

have been there, part of the reason I put in the water heating unit outdoors. Now I can set a skid of wood right beside it indoors too.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire #176  
Amazon.com : Lightning Nuggets N1SEB Super Economy Box Fire Starter 1, Count, Tan : Fire Starters : Garden & Outdoor

Bought a box of those 3 years ago. Still have about half a box left. I burn wood bricks now, similiar to pellets but you can burn them in a regular stove. Real easy, put 2 bricks going back, 2 bricks on top of those going sideways, one of those fire starter things under it, and light with the propane torch. Instant fire. No mess and I only need to clean my stove out once a week at most.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire
  • Thread Starter
#177  
Just started a stove fire.

Had some neat organic packaging material, looked like plane shavings which caught well, but fleeting. The Floor remnants from my Lady Friends house, which look like plywood with a shiny nice coating, doesn't really burn well for kindling. But draft conditions are favourable, so got it going without hardly a puff of smoke inside.

Nice to have a fire going when there are whiteouts outside. -15c tonight.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire #178  
Funny how the OP never addressed his main issue: Trying to start wet wood on fire.

Propane torch, firestarters, garbage, kerosene, diesel fuel, lumber rejects. None of those things are necessary to start a fire. Propane torch for five minutes? You gotta be shitting me. If that's not a sign of wet wood, I don't k now what is.

All you need is well seasoned dry firewood, a couple pieces of paper and a match. Of course, if you're wood stove system isn't designed and built to code per the manufacturer, then that needs to be fixed first. But the symptoms the OP described (won't start, goes out, black glass, smokes etc.): Yep, wet wood.

I start fires almost every day down here in TN. Since we have far more moderate cold weather temps, one fire/day is usually enough (one and done, I rarely have to add additional pieces of wood). Which means I start a brand new fire every morning, when needed.

Fill the wood stove with wood - that's dry (= 2-3 years minimum), put a couple pieces of paper with kindling on top (splitter slash), light it, go make coffee. By the time I'm sipping a cup of joe, the fire is blazing along.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire
  • Thread Starter
#179  
Well, yes and no. The minute this place was finished in 73, with two fireplaces, it became apparent that there was a draft issue. Fingers pointed at too small a flue speced for the heatalator, but the location is a big factor, next to a hillside. Not uncommon at night with outside lighting to see the smoke coming down beside the house.

But yes, the wood situation is rarely a priority and done in Ad Hoc fashion. Most wood burned is just cut down DEAD standing ELM, into three foot logs, throw it on the porch by the front door and that is what we burn in the fireplace that weekend. Very satisfying work and not much handling. Not very efficient for heat, but not much work went into it either. And it doesn't just fall down and rot.
 
   / Starting a Stove Fire #180  
But yes, the wood situation is rarely a priority and done in Ad Hoc fashion. Most wood burned is just cut down DEAD standing ELM, into three foot logs, throw it on the porch by the front door and that is what we burn in the fireplace that weekend. Very satisfying work and not much handling. Not very efficient for heat, but not much work went into it either. And it doesn't just fall down and rot.

C'mon, man. Just cut it up like that a year ahead of time (or at least a month or two), and it will burn way better (cleaner, hotter, etc). Dry wood will give you MORE BTUs, instead of wasting them to evaporate moisture out of the wood. And the planet's atmosphere does not need any more VOCs and particulates that your crappy, unseasoned wood is pumping out the chimney. Just think ahead a tiny bit and your results will improve dramatically.
 

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