OP
Starting my skid steer splitter.
- Thread starter 1grnlwn
- Start date
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LanceH
Silver Member
Looking good there!
Will you have enough clearance between the sides of the push plate/sled to remove and install the pin in the clevis? I guess you could always just put a 1.5" hole on the outside so you could get the pin in and out.
Also, it sounds like you got your wedge (which appears to be 12") from Northern Tool. Assuming it was square and you cut the sliver of so it would be angled, how much did you cut off?
Here's a good link to a thread on a pretty nice home made log splitter: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/159375-logsplitter-valve.html
Check out the pictures on the 2nd page.
Good luck and keep up the good work.
Will you have enough clearance between the sides of the push plate/sled to remove and install the pin in the clevis? I guess you could always just put a 1.5" hole on the outside so you could get the pin in and out.
Also, it sounds like you got your wedge (which appears to be 12") from Northern Tool. Assuming it was square and you cut the sliver of so it would be angled, how much did you cut off?
Here's a good link to a thread on a pretty nice home made log splitter: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/159375-logsplitter-valve.html
Check out the pictures on the 2nd page.
Good luck and keep up the good work.
OP
1grnlwn
Bronze Member
Lance, You can't see the hole in the picture, but it is there. On the knife, I just beveled the bottom good and tacked it at about 3 degrees and filled the gap in back with weld. First time I ever made fill passes and it is not as easy as I thought. I am getting fired up to finish this Beast!
LanceH
Silver Member
What all did you buy for this splitter from Northern Tool? You pretty happy with everything you ordered?
Reason I ask, aside from curiousity on the parts, is their rear cylinder mounts have some reviews on their website that complain about the vertical piece not being square to the base.
Reason I ask, aside from curiousity on the parts, is their rear cylinder mounts have some reviews on their website that complain about the vertical piece not being square to the base.
OP
1grnlwn
Bronze Member
Well it looked square to me but I was concerned with it being a one inch piece with just one weld, not Veed with multiple welds. That is why I backed it up with the spine. We will see how it goes.
OP
1grnlwn
Bronze Member
Well Valentines Day has come and gone and Romance has turned into sparks and slag. More work than I thought beefing up both ends to resist twist, But I think we have a good plan and if we don't run out of welding gas this weekend we may be close to testing on Monday.
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OP
1grnlwn
Bronze Member
LanceH
Silver Member
Looks like most of the steel you are using, plate wise, is all the same thickness. How thick is it? and How thick is your wedge before it gets to the angle iron?
GE222
Gold Member
1grnlwn,
Looks great so far. Your work show a lot of thought and skill. Keep posting lots of updates. :thumbsup:
Looks great so far. Your work show a lot of thought and skill. Keep posting lots of updates. :thumbsup:
OP
1grnlwn
Bronze Member
LanceH, The structural parts are 1/2" thick and the side plates on beam are 1/4" thick. The wedge is 1" thick and was purchased from Northern Equipment. Thanks for the compliment GE , we decided to stick weld most of the beam web stuff and I have not stick welded in 20 years. I had never stick welded with my miller tig welder either. So the welds get better as we go. We just had someone drop off some 36" elm rounds so that should be a good test.
Mark
Mark
