starting observation

[billbill1]

Pioneer, I cut the lower radiator hose about 1-1/2" from the block and installed the 1-1/4" maybe 1-1/2" (not sure without looking) using the original hose on both sides. I had trouble getting the heater in but it went and doesn't leak. Mine will start in the cold but this makes it start much easier and I feel this is better on the engine and the starter. I took the Chinese oil out right away also, I had trouble pouring it out of the drain pan-it was so thick and nasty.

 

[bluechip]

The glow plugs are physically located in the top of the cylinder head. They are only energized with the key in the "H" position. You can tell they are working by the amp draw on the amp meter, will get pretty close to 30, then drop down some as they heat up. They really don't like to start if only one or two (or none) of them are working. When it is cold you need to hold the key in the H position for 20 seconds before cranking. Sometimes you need to return to the H position breifly while the engine begins to try to run.

 

[F100Panel]

I keep my Jinmas in the underhouse garage. Never gets below 50 in there... Have obviouisly not yet tried to start them in bitter cold. Should the need arise to start them outside without electricity available I do have a standby plan I thought I'd throw out for others to consider if stranded....

In the old days the 1940-50's diesel Catepillar equipment had gas pony motors for starters. You tripped the compression release on the main engine & spun the main engine with the pony motor a while for the friction of the pistons going up & down to warm the cylinder walls a tad. Then you let go of the compression release gave it some fuel & tried to start. On my Jinma I figured if caught with no supplemental heat possible, I'd pull the stop knob, engage the decompression, heat the glows & spin her some. Then I'd push the stop knob in, hit the glows again, get her spinning under decompression & then release the decompression with a good spin in progress & see what happens.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif As I mentioned I've never tried it, it's a standby plan based on a proven old time method & in a given situation it's better than just hoping for the best....?

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On my Jinma I figured if caught with no supplemental heat possible, I'd pull the stop knob, engage the decompression, heat the glows & spin her some. Then I'd push the stop knob in, hit the glows again, get her spinning under decompression & then release the decompression with a good spin in progress )</font>
Delete the part about the "stop knob", and you've just described most of the standard recommended cold start procedure.

Yours may be different, but both Jinmas I had had spring returns on both the compression release and on the fuel cutoff (stop knob). After being pulled out, then had to be held out to work. And since the Heat and Start positions on the OE ignition switch are also spring loaded, I'm not sure how this could be accomplished with less than three hands.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I see a lonnnggggg.... discussion between you and Greg comming )</font>
Not to worry John.
I'm learning (albeit slowly) that when somebody asks a question
- then shoots the messenger -
it's often a good idea to simply leave it as a "one-sided" discussion

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I jury rigged mine with part of the original hose and some high pressure black hose from Tractor Supply. I got it in but it leaks. )</font>
When I changed hoses on my Jinmas, I changed hose clamps as well.

Plus, I don't think the Asian wire-type hose clamps are effective on high pressure hose.

If you haven't already, try a band-type clamp on the leaking section.

//greg//

 

[Boltonpower]

Mark

What type of Ford starter did you find to fit??

Thanks
Graham

 

[thegreatrandini]

I am not far away. SE of Topeka about 10 miles.

 

[F100Panel]

I believe the only novel idea I was trying to offer was using the decompression lever after warming the glow plugs could get you an extended crank time without the load of compression overheating the starter. That extended cranking time using the piston friction to warm the cylinder walls.. Once heated the glows stay warm a while and help with drawing warmed air into the cylinders even though they are not being heated while cranking..

If one needs to get into minute detail the old bungy cord on the pull stop will work eliminating the need for the 3rd hand /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I believe the only novel idea I was trying to offer was using the decompression lever after warming the glow plugs could get you an extended crank time without the load of compression overheating the starter. )</font>
No offense, but there's nothing novel about it. The point I was trying to make, is that your standby plan simply describes the cold starting procedure specified in the Jinma 2XX series operator manuals. Without the "stop knob" idea, that is.

//greg//