Starting over

[tradosaurus]

I was on the verge of buying a New Holland T4.65 but after talking with a few people at work that have tractors I realize that the size and the cab were unrealistic to what I would be using it for.

I'm now leaning toward a smaller tractor without cab as my tractor use would be intermittent and around trees. I live on 45 acres with 39 acres being trees. I mow about 3 acres with my zero turn.

I would use the tractor clean up fallen trees, leveling long rock driveway, and general cleanup with a few projects such as creating trails through the woods.

I'm leaning toward Kubota, Mahindra or New Holland since those are the closest dealers. I'm thinking I need about a 40 hp (give or take a few hp).

I'm also looking at buying a brush hog and box blade.

I want a tractor that's intuitive to drive and comfortable. Don't know about HST or power shuttle. Really don't want to deal with having to shut down the tractor for regeneration.

What is your opinion of either of these brands mentioned above?

 

[jeff9366]

I'm leaning toward a tractor without cab. My tractor use would be intermittent. I live on 45 acres with 39 acres being trees, 6 acres open. I mow 3 acres of the 6 open acres with my zero turn.

Really don't want to deal with having to shut down the tractor for regeneration.

Very stringent Tier 4 emission standards, phased-in from 2008 through 2015, require substantial reductions of Particulate Matter above 19 kW/25.4794 horsepower power output.

1) A few light tractors slightly exceeding 19 kW power output, with (small) engine displacements from 68 - 77 cubic inches, meet Tier IV emission standards without costly Diesel Particulate filters.

2) Some tractors with engine displacement around 100 cubic inches are governed by the manufacturers to limit power output to less than the 19 kW demarcation. Tractors under 19 kW ( 19 kW = 25.4794-horsepower) are presently exempt from stringent Tier IV emission controls.


Every tractor brand contains models with at least 12" of ground clearance not requiring periodic regeneration.

In Kubota this includes the B2301, B2601 and B2650 models plus the 24.8 horsepower L2501.
The B2650 has deLuxe features standard. The L2501 is a heavier, "economy" model.
These models will fit in a typical residential garage with an 84" entry height.

VIDEO: Kubota B-Series vs Standard L1 Series - YouTube




My three cylinder, 37-horsepower Kubota L3560, which has a Diesel Particulate Filter, regenerates approximately every 60 engine hours. Regeneration occurs about 50% during operation, which I do not notice. The other 50% I regenerate in my driveway, which takes 16 minutes on average.

Here is the math:

60 hours X 60 minutes = 3,600 minutes.

16 minutes / 3,600 minutes = .00444 = 4/10s of 1% of engine time is regeneration.

(Bear in mind that the average tractor in residential use operates 80 engine hours per year. I clock 300 engine hours per year.)

Cost of diesel to regenerate in driveway: $1.00.

 

[Navvet]

I was on the verge of buying a New Holland T4.65 but after talking with a few people at work that have tractors I realize that the size and the cab were unrealistic to what I would be using it for.

I'm now leaning toward a smaller tractor without cab as my tractor use would be intermittent and around trees. I live on 45 acres with 39 acres being trees. I mow about 3 acres with my zero turn.

I would use the tractor clean up fallen trees, leveling long rock driveway, and general cleanup with a few projects such as creating trails through the woods.

I'm leaning toward Kubota, Mahindra or New Holland since those are the closest dealers. I'm thinking I need about a 40 hp (give or take a few hp).

I'm also looking at buying a brush hog and box blade.

I want a tractor that's intuitive to drive and comfortable. Don't know about HST or power shuttle. Really don't want to deal with having to shut down the tractor for regeneration.

What is your opinion of either of these brands mentioned above?

I was in a similar situation, 20ac, mostly wooded, 1.5 mile (rugged) gravel road to an 800 ft drive (I maintain both).

I have a JD X495 24hp diesel with the hst that I love. When I started looking for a new tractor I didn't feel I wanted the HST and when I saw the price difference, I knew it.

Three years ago I bought the Mahindra 4025 4wd 40 hp with a FEL and Backhoe. The back hoe is frame mounted and strong but I can remove it in 10 min to use the 3pt.

The FEL is amazing, even with the backhoe on the tractor, the FEL overfilled with gravel will lift the rear wheels off the ground. It's almost too powerful.

The tractor is solid and reliable. Starts right up and does everything I ask it to reliably. My neighbor has and old (1960's) JD 55hp tractor and the 4025 with the 4wd will pull just as well as his.

And the best part ..... NO DPF ..... NO REGEN ......

With the new Mahindra's it looks like the 4540 4wd is similar to mine.

 

[jeff9366]

I want a tractor that's intuitive to drive and comfortable.

I would use the tractor clean up fallen trees, leveling long rock driveway, and general cleanup with a few projects such as creating trails through the woods.

Don't know about HST or power shuttle.

I cannot offer much useful information on comfort, although your height, weight and age would provide clues to fit.
No tractor has a suspension. Pneumatic tires are the primary cushion between rough ground and your body.
Go sit on some tractors! Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor that is "interesting".

The tasks you have specified require considerable loader work. Loaders + HST + R4/industrial tires are nearly always ordered together.

Gear is fine if that is what you prefer. But at resale you will receive considerably less for a gear compact tractor.

GEAR Vs HST: TRACTOR GEAR VS HST - Google Search

 

[majorwager]

Jeffy,
Are you measuring the OP for a suit or a tractor.? Shuttle tractors, especially the hydraulically activated units work quite well in repetitive loader operations. If you had familiarity w/ construction grade full size TLB's, they are all shuttle transmissions.

OP should sample some machines, and base his decision upon those real world experiences. It is not unreasonable to avoid DPF if all other tractor features meet the purchaser' s criteria. Resale is only one consideration. Most folks on this forum tend to own their tractors for extended periods.

I am contemplating a JCB 3CX Compact and the omission of the DPF is a bonus.

 

[Bigpuddie]

In the size range you mentioned, I go with Kubota or Mahindra before New Holland Boomer. I am also not a fan of Hydrostatic. I have had both, But Hydraulic shuttle is the way to go.

 

[Rutman]

In the size range you mentioned, I go with Kubota or Mahindra before New Holland Boomer. I am also not a fan of Hydrostatic. I have had both, But Hydraulic shuttle is the way to go.

How does hydraulic shuttle work?

 

[Bigpuddie]

How does hydraulic shuttle work?

It's a power shuttle...no clutch between forward and reverse. Most have a synchronized transmission so you can shift gears on the fly. The clutch you want is wet. You may want to look at a Kubota M6060 ROPs tractor with 8 spd hydraulic shuttle. People will say to get the 12 spd, but for what you want an 8 spd will be fine and cost less. The loader is strong enough to handle working in the woods as well. I had a M5040, which is very similar to the M6060, for 10 years.. not one issue. New Holland also makes a Workmaster series which are good, simple tractors as well. I have heard good things about Mahindra, but I have no experience with them.

 

[Texasmark]

45-50 hp is a good size and not intimidating for the "other" operator. Hydrostatic (which I don't have, but could) is a good beginner's tractor for you and the other driver. Hydros usually have 2-3 ranges...meaning 0 mph at idle to full ground speed at rated max (Power Take Off PTO) where max speed is slow, medium, or fast, like "road" gear. Pedal depression determines engine rpms/ground speed.

Next comes regular geared transmissions where you have a lever on the steering colum that can be moved up-off-back to select forward, neutral or reverse, some requiring clutch engagement (like my 6530) and some without. Clutch engagement is a no brainer as would be shifting a type without the clutch requirement. You select the gear and engine rpm you want and work the job, like moving a pile of gravel, cleaning out a livestock pen or such......back and forth is really where they shine.

Finally is regular transmission shifting, with clutch just like stick shift cars and trucks.

The top two choices usually come with a hydrostatic "whine" that may or may not bother you. Today's tractors have hydrostatic front wheel steering (diesel engine, and 4wd) standard and some whine can be had with them (and the transmission), especially at the limits of the turning radius (with respect to the steering whine).

Most seem to be reliable machines and different colors are popular with different folks having different priorities. If you are not interested in DEF and all, buy a used older tractor. My 2400 with the Cummins engine is below the bar (less than the 25.5 hp DEF requirement....but too small for what you want to do) and the 6530 is Cummins also with Tier 3 without anything but a PVC tube since it's a 2007 year model.

Some folks have to have the dealer next door. Some (like me) don't. The internet and UPS makes the dealer as close to me as I need and has worked just fine including getting parts, like the right cab glass door I blew out while mowing (rock hit me) having it in less than a week with just a phone call.

I've had at least 2 dozen tractors up to 100 hp, all the popular colors (except orange) over the years and find that no color gets everything perfect. All have their better this and that. Brand loyalty is out there and can influence one's decision, not necessarily for the better. Expect your respondents to be partial. Find out why and see if that suits you and your situation.

Good luck.

 

[mred2]

A cab is nice to have, but I did not get one due to trees, replacing the glass, blocking the view. Plus I am not on the tractor more than 3 to 4 hours at a time.
I like the power shuttle (hyd. shuttle), but got a dry shuttle. I do have to clutch. Nothing work with the HST, but you do lose some power to it.
I purchased an LS because of the dealer, 60 miles away but good. I had other dealers closer. You have to get parts and sometimes service.
Sat on the tractors and drive them. I thought I wanted a red tractor and I drove it. There is no way I would want to set in that seat for much time. It was only that model, as others were better. I wanted green, but did not want to pay for it. The attachments for it run the price up.
Take time and get it down to what you think are the 4 or 5 best matches for you. Then start looking what is the best tractor for you.
And nothing wrong with used, if you want to go that way.