Steering adjustment for a Ford 8N tractor.
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terrym6150
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terrym6150
New member
Here are all the pictures I could think to sed. Thanks for you help. Terry
terrym6150
New member
im not sure if the pictures connected to my post. I am the guy who posted this question:
I just purchased a 1951 8N. The left front wheel is straight and the right front wheel is pointed out to the right. I measured the back inside tire to tire the measurement is 46" the front from tire to tire is 51 inches. so I guess it is about 2 1/2 inches out...seems like alot. Is that fixed by repositioning the right pitman arm? If so how do you remove the arm from the spline once the nut is removed? Soundguy responded previously and requested pictures.
Thanks for any help you can give.
I just purchased a 1951 8N. The left front wheel is straight and the right front wheel is pointed out to the right. I measured the back inside tire to tire the measurement is 46" the front from tire to tire is 51 inches. so I guess it is about 2 1/2 inches out...seems like alot. Is that fixed by repositioning the right pitman arm? If so how do you remove the arm from the spline once the nut is removed? Soundguy responded previously and requested pictures.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
need a pic that shows both sector arms. perhaps from the view of setting in the seat.
terrym6150
New member
Sorry for the delay I have been traveling. Here are pics of both sector arms from drivers seat and from each side. Even though the right wheel is towed out two inches the steering is correct stop to stop. Same turns at the steering wheel. There doesn't seem to be enough threads at the tie rods to adjust it (see last pics). Thanks for your help.
Soundguy
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- 51,575
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
misalignment.
both sector arms should be swept back. left looks good. right is deffinately forward... which is why the right wheel is incorrect...
both sector arms should be swept back. left looks good. right is deffinately forward... which is why the right wheel is incorrect...
terrym6150
New member
SO....I assume I need to use a puller to remove the sector arm and just reposition it? I didn't see a key-way that would prevent me from just repositioning it. Do I adjust tow to be the same at front and back of tires or should there be some tow in or out? If so where do I find the measurements. Is there an exact science to this or just do it by sight? Thanks for your help.
Soundguy, or anyone else who wants to jump in, since I have your attention I do have another question concerning restoring my 1951 8N. The engine was recently rebuilt and the sheet metal doesn't even have a dent in it and just a tiny bit of surface rust. I was thinking of just cleaning it real good and basically repainting it back to new (any ideas on getting ready to paint?). I realize that isn't technically a restoration but I am going to put all new tires and wheels on it also and jazz it up a little with some chrome and replace anything that needs replaced. I want to upgrade it to 12 volt or is that necessary?, it starts instantly and runs very smoothly. Is there anything else I should look for to replace or rebuild as I am getting this tractor back to looking and feeling new? I want to do it right but just don't think it needs a complete nut and bolt restoration to make it a great looking and running tractor. What about the clutch modification I read about in here? Good idea? Anything in your vast knowledge base would be appreciated I am an old (turned 65 yesterday) auto racer doing my first tractor. Ironically I learned to drive on an Allis Chalmers WD45 on the family farm. That is the next one I want to find and fix up or restore. Thanks again!
Soundguy, or anyone else who wants to jump in, since I have your attention I do have another question concerning restoring my 1951 8N. The engine was recently rebuilt and the sheet metal doesn't even have a dent in it and just a tiny bit of surface rust. I was thinking of just cleaning it real good and basically repainting it back to new (any ideas on getting ready to paint?). I realize that isn't technically a restoration but I am going to put all new tires and wheels on it also and jazz it up a little with some chrome and replace anything that needs replaced. I want to upgrade it to 12 volt or is that necessary?, it starts instantly and runs very smoothly. Is there anything else I should look for to replace or rebuild as I am getting this tractor back to looking and feeling new? I want to do it right but just don't think it needs a complete nut and bolt restoration to make it a great looking and running tractor. What about the clutch modification I read about in here? Good idea? Anything in your vast knowledge base would be appreciated I am an old (turned 65 yesterday) auto racer doing my first tractor. Ironically I learned to drive on an Allis Chalmers WD45 on the family farm. That is the next one I want to find and fix up or restore. Thanks again!
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
No, you can't just pull the sector arm off and reposition. If you would have looked it does INDEED have a master spline. The misaligned part is the sector gear and shaft! the forward gear is a double, the aft gear is single. and the ballnut is in front. Ballnut aft side has teeth, it engages front of double sector, aft of double sector engages front of single sector. The service manual has the procedure where you count the teeth to mesh front sector to aft sector.
So.. it starts instantly and runs very smooth and you want to 'upgrade it' to 12v..... whatever.. your machine. I'd quit fixing it unless it was broke.. IMHO...
What clutch mod are you refering to?
For painting, I'd sand or abrasive pad off the rust, then prime, then paint.
So.. it starts instantly and runs very smooth and you want to 'upgrade it' to 12v..... whatever.. your machine. I'd quit fixing it unless it was broke.. IMHO...
What clutch mod are you refering to?
For painting, I'd sand or abrasive pad off the rust, then prime, then paint.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
PS.. toe in.. I like .25" get both tires straight once you fix the box, and then measure front fronts of tire to each other and backs of tire to each other. front toed in 1/4" or so...
