Stick Built v. Morton

jcmseven · Mar 20, 2010

After contemplating this for three or four years now, I am at the verge of committing to a building purchase. I have always wanted a detached garage/storage building/shop and am looking to do a 24x24 or similar sized building. My two main options are going with a stick built custom building or going with Morton building. My parents have a contractor who has built two houses for them and who I trust greatly. He has given me an estimate of about $50.00 per square foot for a building on a concrete pad with electricity but no heat that either exactly or at least closely matches our house. It would have similar siding and roofline and usual shingled roof. Morton comes in at about 35-40$ per equivalent square footage but can "come close" to having the building match. They cannot guarantee that the building with exactly match our house. Shelving or lofting and/or electricity would require hiring an additional person and might increase my cost some. The building site at which I am looking is about 80 feet from my main house. We live in a gated community and have reasonably strict rules about buildings and matching our homes. I think I can get this by the committee without trouble, but would not want a building that detracts from my home value but rather would be viewed as a value adding addition for the time that we sell, which might be a few years. Those with thoughts on this please chime in on whichever aspect you choose. Thanks.

John M

Carl_NH · Mar 20, 2010

For the delta in cost $6K I would go the stick built route. Morton may seem lower at the onset however wiring, finish, and the little "extras" you will likely want (matching the other bldgs, shelving, work benches etc) while this is in progress will be easy for your contractor to accomplish. I did my 24x36 barn/workshop and the contractor built 2 12' Long double shelved workbenches out of remaining 2X10s and plywood for $200..

On the other hand Morton typically is "what you see is what you get" with potential for additional charge for these extras and very little "custom" attributes. Not saying this is not possible but at the end of the day stick built gets my vote.

BungeeII · Mar 20, 2010

Morton buildings have their place.

A gated community with strict rules isn't one of them.:laughing:

$50 per square foot sounds pretty steep. Is it insulated and finished with drywall, too?

JCB · Mar 20, 2010

jcm,

I was ready to chime in and say Morton, Morton, Morton. After reading your post I'm saying stick built, stick built, stick built.

Pole buildings can look great and really give a warm fuzzy feeling as the PROPER place for a shop and storage are, but you've got a couple things going against you.

1. What BungeeII said...(i.e. have their place)
2. What Carl said...(i.e. pole WYSIWYG, little customization)
3. Pole built can look good, but it'll never match your house.
4. Cost may end up similar.

Good luck either way, sounds exciting!

Joe

jcmseven · Mar 20, 2010

If you know what I mean here, I am not wanting to "cheap out" on this building, but I am wanting not to overspend. I thought $50 per square was pretty steep so I am having a second estimate done. My wife is on me to make sure I am tight on my prices, i.e, an extra $10K unexpected would not win me the home popularity contest. When I first started my business, which I ultimately sold to three of my partners, I was in charge of "building out" my office space. I had never done this before but I recall it only being about $45-50 per square foot and I dealt with contractors. I realize this was about 10 years ago, but that was a finished space with climate control and electrical circuits run everywhere and multiple information ports with some nice interior finish work. Given today's economy, I felt that $40.00 per square foot would be about right, but I have no idea. I would appreciate insight into how far off I might be. I realize too there are geographic differences but for this type building I thought they might not be that much,.

John M

jcmseven · Mar 20, 2010

One other thing I should mention, our "gated" community is on the side of a mountain and is very heavily wooded. Most of the home lots where I live are larger than 3 acres so it is challenging in winter and impossible in summer to see one's neighbors. Essentially I live on about 7 acres in a rural setting that has a gate, private road and security guard. Not that it matters, but it would not be my intent on putting a Morton building on a 1/4 acre lot in a gated golf club community; ours is quite different from that.

John M

radman1 · Mar 20, 2010

If you really want it to closely match, go stick built. If the building was farther away, not very visible from the house and you wanted similar look (but still a shop), then the Morton may work. Stick built will also be easier to attach cabinets, shelves, peg board ect to walls since standard 2x's are used. Drywall, sheets of plywood ect also easier to attach to stick built.

I have a 45x72', pole barn 100' from house. It has wainscoting bottom, eaves, windows ect. It was built 3-4 years before the house. Nice looking but does not match the house at all in color. If I had my options, it would more closely match the house but it is what it is. Your project is small in overall size and the stick built works. You have the chance to do it right for not much more money and it will add to the appearance of you property. If you needed a lot of space and height then the pole barn would be much cheaper.

Based on your prior posts, I think you are kind of like me. Do it the optimal way first or regret it later. Then you have to live with it or it becomes a major overhaul to correct. When I built my house I had originally planned a large utility room (12x15) for washer/dryer, work clothes ect. Wife didn't like it on the plans so we opted for smaller room in different location. With my family, the utility room is crowed and congested when going in and out of the house. Got bid last year to add onto house at the original site of the larger utility room. Now the A/C's, electrical ect are in the way, need to dig new footings, new sidewalk, windows, door, match the partial stone exterior ect. The bid was $70K for a 12x15' room. Not doing that project.

CurlyDave · Mar 20, 2010

Get at least 3 or 4 contractors to bid this building.

The more you can specify up front, the fewer surprises at the end. For instance don't just say 20 electrical outlets. Say 100 Amp electrical service, 10 each 20 Amp circuits, not more than 2 outlets per breaker, and include a diagram of where the outlets go. Then add your 220 Volt outlets for a welder, etc.

Right now, many contractors are hurting, and will give you very good prices. Lumber is as cheap as it has been in years. Everything is in your favor to go stick built, but I agree that $50 per sq ft is high for a shop/garage.

Carl_NH · Mar 21, 2010

I had this 24x36 stick built in 99 - concrete slab and second floor. I didnt want any posts inside so went with 18" floor trusses - they were the most expense in the project 22 @ $85 each. Used white cedar shakes to match the house and the same bleaching oil stai, and then copper lamps to keep the lady happy..

Total square footage first floor 850, and 550 upstairs. Was $30K with foundation - no insulation and I wired it myself underground from the garage 200' away. Probably today this may be 10-20% higher.

Note: putting the door on front with a metal roof is not advised

buckeyefarmer · Mar 22, 2010

In my area they both would be referred to as stick built, meaning the raw material is hauled on site than assembled. I would double check with Morton, I know of morton buildings with vinyl siding and shingled roofs that could match.

dfeck · Mar 22, 2010

Carl_NH said:
I had this 24x36 stick built in 99 - concrete slab and second floor. I didnt want any posts inside so went with 18" floor trusses - they were the most expense in the project 22 @ $85 each. Used white cedar shakes to match the house and the same bleaching oil stai, and then copper lamps to keep the lady happy..

Total square footage first floor 850, and 550 upstairs. Was $30K with foundation - no insulation and I wired it myself underground from the garage 200' away. Probably today this may be 10-20% higher.

Note: putting the door on front with a metal roof is not advised

Carl,

What's the pitch of your roof that's attached to your post?

Doug

eepete · Mar 22, 2010

I am currently finishing the inside of a Morton building. The core building was 30 x 40 with 2 garage doors, concrete floor, about $23K. I am adding power, water, air, insulation, and then plywood walls both for protection and to mount things too. I am happy with the job Morton did. It's taking a _lot_ of my time to do this interior work. You pay in time, or you pay in money.

I would have gladly paid more for stick built that matches the house, but have no idea who locally could do it. The house is 2.5 years old, but wouldn't want the group that did it to do a garage. Tried a local contractor to do repairs on the old house that's now on the market, they messed it up. I know 2 people who build houses in the 2006-7 time frame, both had big trouble. The repair work to the old house was not a great deal cost wise. So I settled for a building that doesn't match very well, but it's OK. I think both the building and myself are looking at a 25 year life span, then the next owner can either scrap it or take the skin off and finish it to match the house. The roof pitch and orientation of the peak matches the house, so it could be cleaned up easily.

When it's all done, I'll post a thread on the project.

It seems like more and more that if you can't be assured you're getting quality, you just go for low price and disposability. Tools are either Klien or Harbor Freight. Since the volume is at the low end, the cost of quality keeps going up. And if you're outside of your expertise, it's very hard to know if you're getting quality. Wall mart is not winning solely because of it's low price and people's cheapness. Part of it is a general lack of quality in the world that forces a low cost throw away mentality.

The OP had confidence in a builder, so I'd go stick built and get it right and make it match. This also means you must specify exactly what you want. Part of why Morton was easy and cheap is because it was a box with doors. When you toss in matching finish, colors, electrical, water and interior trim work, you must be precise., Break out each category as it's own cost so you can better oversee the project.
I know a lot of workers are hurting around here, but it seems like they'd rather starve than drop their prices. I suspect they are buying their food at Wall Mart. So I'm using my time instead of hiring someone. I'll save my rant about general contractors and architects for a more on theme thread

.

Pete

rdln · Mar 22, 2010

No Doubt use 2x4 or 6x4 walls, attic truss if roof pitch permits, on a floating slab.

I Dont think the dollar value of a pole barn contruction will be realized in a building that small.

dodge man · Mar 22, 2010

I put up a 28' x 30' garage about 11 years ago. I'm not sure what prices have done since then, but my cost was about $25 per sq. ft. Thats heated, insulated, on a slap, two overhead door, finished on the inside with OSB, a walk in door, two windows, vinyl siding, shingled roof and fully wired. Prices may have increased, and I'm not sure if prices are higher in your area, but it seems like you could get a better price. At that time, I priced out a Morton building, and it was going to cost more, but not iclude the concrete work, insulation or wiring.

coobie · Mar 23, 2010

jcmseven said:
After contemplating this for three or four years now, I am at the verge of committing to a building purchase. I have always wanted a detached garage/storage building/shop and am looking to do a 24x24 or similar sized building. My two main options are going with a stick built custom building or going with Morton building. My parents have a contractor who has built two houses for them and who I trust greatly. He has given me an estimate of about $50.00 per square foot for a building on a concrete pad with electricity but no heat that either exactly or at least closely matches our house. It would have similar siding and roofline and usual shingled roof. Morton comes in at about 35-40$ per equivalent square footage but can "come close" to having the building match. They cannot guarantee that the building with exactly match our house. Shelving or lofting and/or electricity would require hiring an additional person and might increase my cost some. The building site at which I am looking is about 80 feet from my main house. We live in a gated community and have reasonably strict rules about buildings and matching our homes. I think I can get this by the committee without trouble, but would not want a building that detracts from my home value but rather would be viewed as a value adding addition for the time that we sell, which might be a few years. Those with thoughts on this please chime in on whichever aspect you choose. Thanks.

John M

I had a stick built pole barn 40 year metal roof and sides,insulated garage door,3 windows,door (24X24X14)with a (24X10)lean to put on.Total cost from my builder with cement in barn & lean to with a 10X34 cement approach was $13,800.coobie.

dfeck · Mar 23, 2010

I'm looking at building a pole barn myself. A few years ago I got a quote for a stick frame 24' x 32' with cement slab and a 320' stone driveway back to the barn. One overhead door, 1 entry door 2 dormers and 4 windows. Price was 42K. Again, I wanted to match the house as close as possible. Needless to say I didn't go that route due to the cost. Today, I've gotten a quote from a local pole barn builder that is 36' x 48', 8/12 pitch, 11' sidewalls, 1' overhands, one 14'x12' overhead door, 4 windows, 1 entry door, concrete floor and stone 320' driveway. Price was 32K. That works out to be $18 square foot vs. $55 for stick build. Yes, the stick build was more detailed with vinyl siding and 30yr ashault roofing.

Doug